Y2K WS6

iTrader: (33)

I think I have this in the right place.

I have a 2000, and a 1998 trans am. the windows are BOTH slow as hell. I also have a 2001 corvette and the windows are damn quick to raise and lower, as are my buddy's 2005 silverado SS.

What is the major difference in this, besides the obvious window weight. And is it possible to swap motors. add things like the autotrix window fix etc to the f-body and make it less... embarassing with the power windows?

Thanks.

KipMaslonka

iTrader: (9)

I did the *passenger* autotrix window mod to both passenger and driver side. The main difference between passenger window mod and driver window mod is the presence of the express down module. I did the non-ED module on the driver side because if I don't have the window side express down i'd have to hold that side down anyways - 1 side with and 1 side without makes no sense to me.

I'm not sure the f-body wiring is different than your y-body or truck, but the voltage at the window motor has been said on here to be about 9-10 volts before autotrix mod and 12-13 after the mod. On the passenger side I went from extremely slow to extremely fast with the same motor and regulator. On the driver side I went from somewhat slow to mediocre with the same motor and regulator.

I figure the driver side guides or something needs to be cleaned or the motor/regulator replaced, as those are the problem. The new electricals on the passenger side was the problem over there though, and the autotrix made a world of difference.

First clean and grease the guides for a probably free check. Then do the autotrix mod for a cheap, probable solution. Then replace the window motors/regulators if neither of the cheaper solutions work.

TruBloodTransAm

iTrader: (24)

I would avoid swapping motors if you can, it's a real PITA. I did the AutoTrix passenger side window fix and I was VERY impressed with the results.

Not sure about the differences between the F-body and Y-body window motors. However, there is a thread on here that explains in detail the mechanics of the window motor and why they constantly fail.

Cheap Guy

iTrader: (3)

Same here. I did the Autotrix v. replacing the window motor and all was fine. A lot of people who replace the motors end up replacing them again after a while.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The difference is that the corvette motor is a new design and our original motor design is from the late 1960's. (If you are adventurous, you can check parts cross references and confirm.)

The Autotrix kit is not a "fix" but more of a band-aid for a window without an express up module. That kit gives more power to a crappy window motor, which makes it seem less crappy. IMO - its just like polishing a turd. (It looks nicer, but in the end - its still a turd.)

If you want to get away from the stock motors, there are two good options:
- Purchase a new Dorman motor. This motor contains 100% new parts and is a new and improved design over the OEM model. To date, we have yet to have someone on this forum (that I've seen) report one being bad in any way. IMO - This is the best thing to do.

- Purchase an aftermarket motor/regulator combo from Electric-Life. This is the route I went before the Dorman motor was released and it was a larger PITA to install and is many times more expensive.

TruBloodTransAm

iTrader: (24)

This thread is also very informative.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

autotrix FTW

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This thread will destroy the doors over time. There is a reason that the motors have a thermal cutoff switch and disabling it will stress out the door skin.