What do you think about this setup?
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What do you think about this setup?
Hey guys,
I just wondered if you could give me your opinions on my plan before I purchase.. I just want something with good SQ. I also want to be able to hear it oh the highway with the t-tops off... etc.
HU mount
Alpine A-X305S
Kicker 700.5
Infinity Perfect 6.1 comps
6W3
Subthump box
10W6
Thanks
I just wondered if you could give me your opinions on my plan before I purchase.. I just want something with good SQ. I also want to be able to hear it oh the highway with the t-tops off... etc.
HU mount
Alpine A-X305S
Kicker 700.5
Infinity Perfect 6.1 comps
6W3
Subthump box
10W6
Thanks
#3
Double-check your sub cone depth against the enclosure, that thing looks pretty long. Also your 6" sail midbass subs are longer than what I used. I'm not sure what max sail panel depth is, but you have to pushing the limit at 4.6" or whatever those are.
Class D channel should make right around 300 RMS @ 3 Ohm if you run parallel DVC, right where you want it.
When I went to external amps and new speakers, one thing that really sounded crappy at first was running too much high freq through the sail panel midbass. Once I set my 10" LPF to 100 Hz, and set the midbass to an 80-250 Hz range, it stopped pulling the soundstage backward and really gave a nice full effect.
What I'm saying is, try to make sure that the signal you send the mid-bass is capable of band-pass filtering either on the amp, or in combination with the HU. I guess an LPF might be okay *IF* it goes up to 300 HZ (many only go up to 125Hz or so, you should check this), but will draw more power trying drive cones that can't really perform well below 80 Hz or so.
Are you deleting the hatch speakers? Or just going to let the monsoon amp drive them?
For what you'll spend on the Alpine I would at least want 4-5V pre-amp outputs. But if it's got some features you really want, go for it.
Class D channel should make right around 300 RMS @ 3 Ohm if you run parallel DVC, right where you want it.
When I went to external amps and new speakers, one thing that really sounded crappy at first was running too much high freq through the sail panel midbass. Once I set my 10" LPF to 100 Hz, and set the midbass to an 80-250 Hz range, it stopped pulling the soundstage backward and really gave a nice full effect.
What I'm saying is, try to make sure that the signal you send the mid-bass is capable of band-pass filtering either on the amp, or in combination with the HU. I guess an LPF might be okay *IF* it goes up to 300 HZ (many only go up to 125Hz or so, you should check this), but will draw more power trying drive cones that can't really perform well below 80 Hz or so.
Are you deleting the hatch speakers? Or just going to let the monsoon amp drive them?
For what you'll spend on the Alpine I would at least want 4-5V pre-amp outputs. But if it's got some features you really want, go for it.
Last edited by Capricio; 05-11-2011 at 11:57 AM.
#4
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First off, I really appreciate you taking the time to respond.
Secondly, I should have warned everybody, I have never had a "system" before, but I am studying engineering, and think i have figured out the basics....
As far as the sub depth... idk that it will fit nicely... but if it doesnt, i was just planning on putting in a spacer. Good idea? Idk, but i really like the look of JL subs, i like the idea of them... idk. lol
The sails are the the same depth as the Elemental Design E3.6s people run. So, im assuming i can make them work.
I've never tuned a system, though I do understand the concept of limiting signal to the different speakers... so i guess ill see how that turns out later.
the hatch speakers are gone, as is the monsoon amp,
Pre-amp output is another thing i dont understand past "more is better", so that was not a factor in my choice of the alpine HU.
That HU is the only aftermarket HU ive ever seen that i would ever put in my car,
So its between THAT or the stock HU with a JL Clean Sweep...
Thanks again,
Trevor
Secondly, I should have warned everybody, I have never had a "system" before, but I am studying engineering, and think i have figured out the basics....
As far as the sub depth... idk that it will fit nicely... but if it doesnt, i was just planning on putting in a spacer. Good idea? Idk, but i really like the look of JL subs, i like the idea of them... idk. lol
The sails are the the same depth as the Elemental Design E3.6s people run. So, im assuming i can make them work.
I've never tuned a system, though I do understand the concept of limiting signal to the different speakers... so i guess ill see how that turns out later.
the hatch speakers are gone, as is the monsoon amp,
Pre-amp output is another thing i dont understand past "more is better", so that was not a factor in my choice of the alpine HU.
That HU is the only aftermarket HU ive ever seen that i would ever put in my car,
So its between THAT or the stock HU with a JL Clean Sweep...
Thanks again,
Trevor
#5
You won't see the backside of any sub after installation. You won't see the front or back of the sails... just saying, looks are meaningless. But *if* they fit, the JLs are fine. If you have to make spacers, then you're just making work for yourself and creating headaches. There are products equally as good that are proven to bolt right in.
I vaguely recall seeing old threads on the Elemental Design cones, i thought they did require spacers, but I'm not sure. You'd be doing yourself a favor by searching for those old threads. I think they were chosen at the time because there wasn't much available in 6" DVC, but none of that matters in your case, you have many options available.
I think that Kicker amp can be configured for a bandpass up to 200 Hz. A bit low, IMHO, but it'll be alright.
If it were me, I'd get a set of cheap hatch speakers for rear fill, just be sure they can handle 70 WRMS or so. Then I'd get a separate 2 channel Class D just for the sails. ...but, that would add to your cost and require more space, a distro block, etc.
As discussed in a recent thread, higher pre-amp voltage gives bit more "imperviousness" to EM noise and gives better volume resolution on your HU, since you're adjusting the same amount of range over a larger output level. Most amps have a dial that lets you set compensate for pre-out voltage level, sometimes labeled "gain".
I have doubts about how well Pandora and that streaming stuff will work in a mobile audio app, but I live out in the styxx, maybe you'll have good luck with it.
I think it was you in the other thread asking about distro blocks... I can tell you that my system is drawing about the same wattage as yours will be, about 800 WRMS @ 4 Ohm. A good real 4 AWG drop to 8 AWG distro is more than adequate. Unless you're running an RV galley or a nitrous bottle heater or something. I wouldn't bother with the second battery, just do the AD-244 alternator upgrade and you are done for less than $80 total.
Use shielded RCA cables. If you're mounting an amp rack in the rear, get 20' because the standard 17' is kind of tight.
I vaguely recall seeing old threads on the Elemental Design cones, i thought they did require spacers, but I'm not sure. You'd be doing yourself a favor by searching for those old threads. I think they were chosen at the time because there wasn't much available in 6" DVC, but none of that matters in your case, you have many options available.
I think that Kicker amp can be configured for a bandpass up to 200 Hz. A bit low, IMHO, but it'll be alright.
If it were me, I'd get a set of cheap hatch speakers for rear fill, just be sure they can handle 70 WRMS or so. Then I'd get a separate 2 channel Class D just for the sails. ...but, that would add to your cost and require more space, a distro block, etc.
As discussed in a recent thread, higher pre-amp voltage gives bit more "imperviousness" to EM noise and gives better volume resolution on your HU, since you're adjusting the same amount of range over a larger output level. Most amps have a dial that lets you set compensate for pre-out voltage level, sometimes labeled "gain".
I have doubts about how well Pandora and that streaming stuff will work in a mobile audio app, but I live out in the styxx, maybe you'll have good luck with it.
I think it was you in the other thread asking about distro blocks... I can tell you that my system is drawing about the same wattage as yours will be, about 800 WRMS @ 4 Ohm. A good real 4 AWG drop to 8 AWG distro is more than adequate. Unless you're running an RV galley or a nitrous bottle heater or something. I wouldn't bother with the second battery, just do the AD-244 alternator upgrade and you are done for less than $80 total.
Use shielded RCA cables. If you're mounting an amp rack in the rear, get 20' because the standard 17' is kind of tight.
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#8
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You won't see the backside of any sub after installation. You won't see the front or back of the sails... just saying, looks are meaningless. But *if* they fit, the JLs are fine. If you have to make spacers, then you're just making work for yourself and creating headaches. There are products equally as good that are proven to bolt right in.
I vaguely recall seeing old threads on the Elemental Design cones, i thought they did require spacers, but I'm not sure. You'd be doing yourself a favor by searching for those old threads. I think they were chosen at the time because there wasn't much available in 6" DVC, but none of that matters in your case, you have many options available.
a
I think that Kicker amp can be configured for a bandpass up to 200 Hz. A bit low, IMHO, but it'll be alright.
If it were me, I'd get a set of cheap hatch speakers for rear fill, just be sure they can handle 70 WRMS or so. Then I'd get a separate 2 channel Class D just for the sails. ...but, that would add to your cost and require more space, a distro block, etc.
As discussed in a recent thread, higher pre-amp voltage gives bit more "imperviousness" to EM noise and gives better volume resolution on your HU, since you're adjusting the same amount of range over a larger output level. Most amps have a dial that lets you set compensate for pre-out voltage level, sometimes labeled "gain".
I think it was you in the other thread asking about distro blocks... I can tell you that my system is drawing about the same wattage as yours will be, about 800 WRMS @ 4 Ohm. A good real 4 AWG drop to 8 AWG distro is more than adequate. Unless you're running an RV galley or a nitrous bottle heater or something. I wouldn't bother with the second battery, just do the alternator upgrade and you are done for less than $80 total
Thanks, I wouldve got the shorties... :/
#10