Engine light on after WOT
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Engine light on after WOT
I have a 98 trans am A4 that is completely stock other than a K&N filter. I have had the check engine light come on a few times and its only comes on after i truly punch it. The car seems to be driving just fine and after i drive it normal for a while it will go away and only come back on when i drive it like a bat out of hell. I have gotten the codes checked and it said faulty 02 reading and a low voltage reading. Just wanted to be sure im not killing my car since i just bought her in April.
#2
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Usually when i buy a car i do a lot of maintenance before i drive hard. Plugs, wires, fluids, filters. Depending on the mileage of the car i'd do the O2 sensors as well. If i had an intermitent code like you have, i'd do it even faster. You probably arent killing your car but it'd bug the crap outta me knowing something was on the fritz.
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I have a 98 trans am A4 that is completely stock other than a K&N filter. I have had the check engine light come on a few times and its only comes on after i truly punch it. The car seems to be driving just fine and after i drive it normal for a while it will go away and only come back on when i drive it like a bat out of hell. I have gotten the codes checked and it said faulty 02 reading and a low voltage reading. Just wanted to be sure im not killing my car since i just bought her in April.
To the OP, was it a front or rear O2 sensor?
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The codes from autozone say heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1(HO2S11)
and below that low voltage. its a 1998 Trans am with 91k miles i bought it right before it turned over to 90 so i havent put to many miles on it yet. The owner did cut out the bottom of the stock air box so more air could flow in and theres the K&N stock filter but other than that the car is stock.
and below that low voltage. its a 1998 Trans am with 91k miles i bought it right before it turned over to 90 so i havent put to many miles on it yet. The owner did cut out the bottom of the stock air box so more air could flow in and theres the K&N stock filter but other than that the car is stock.
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That's the front driver's side O2 sensor. Input from the front O2s is an important factor used by the PCM to determine proper A/F ratio. This can effect everything from gas mileage to power output.
I would replace that as soon as you can.
I would replace that as soon as you can.
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95% of 02 codes on vehicles that are stock are usually a bad sensor. As long as the wiring doesn't look tampered with your pretty safe with it just being a sensor. Switch sides and see if the code changes to b1s2.
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Thanks alot for the advice guys ill probably just end up getting that new 02 sensor for it. The car was well taken care of by teh previous owner who was the original owner since 1997 he even had records dating back to 1997 on it. Im glad its not to expensive of a repair cause i dont want to be dropping money on this car on things that dont make it faster pretty much.
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i had the same problem so i replaced my O2 sensor and my engine light still flashes! do i need to hook a computer up to it and clear the codes to make everything run correctly?
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i have no idea, a friend of mine told me to buy a computer to reset all the codes and it should be fixed.. it was saying i had a miss in cylinder 1 so i changed the plug, wire, and coil and my 02 sensors
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if its still flashing you need to get that checked asap. miss fire is hard on your car. most car manual say if check engine light is flashing not to drive long like that. if you have cats on your car a miss fire can destroy them quick. miss fire can be cause by a number of things if you changed plugs, wires and coils then you may need to do a compression test on the cylinder that is throwing code because your prob maybe bigger than that.
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also, i have taken all the emmissions off the engine and it only misses when at an idle.. it runs strong above an ideal, but when i punch it, it hesitates..
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Taking the emissions off without adding long tube headers makes no sense because it does not add any power.... I am a firm believer in taking it in if you are not sure what is going on. Industry standard in auto repair is to just charge 1.0 labor hour for diagnosis per concern. The techs at the dealerships in my opinion are better than the small shops but its your money and your car so the decision is up to you.
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well the guy that had the car before me took them off and i just never put them back on cause he said it wouldnt make a difference.. i just dont know if i could buy a programmer and clear all the codes to fix it or if its more serious than that..