my bandit

iTrader: (10)

i just picked up some brand new JL 12w3v3-4s for pretty cheap and i was wondering which amp i should get. right now i have a subthump ttop box with an alpine 450w amp running 2 12" kenwoods. what would be a good amp on th egood price range. im not looking for the top of the line/high dollar stuff. just a suitable amp.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

I have a stellar deal on a real 1000watt amp that will hit them well with a small footprint you can hide easily. For the price you cannot beat it as it makes real power. I have it in my DD for testing purposes because I was skeptical. For $139.99 it is a sick amp!
http://www.keeaudio.com/audioipe.html
It will be perfect for those at 300watts per side (600watts RMS @ 2ohm) which is in the optimal range for the W3 JL subs. I have used them several times and when you go higher then that they tend to start distorting.

I also have several maps from JBL, MTX, Infinity, JL Audio, MMATS, Massive, and many more.

my bandit

iTrader: (10)

Now what's the difference between the 2ohm and 4ohm subs? (I'm new to this stuff) I'm looking for something that is not prone to overheating easily. Right now I have my alpine 450w screwed into the side of my subthump box and its hidden under the rear drivers side panel (where the stock cd changer goes) I was looking to put one either there or under the box where there is room. And on the audiopipe one. Where would it rank compared to an alpine or jl amp? I use to have the jl stealthbox with a 10w3 with the alpine running it

my bandit

iTrader: (10)

Oh and what's a good replacement speaker for the rear hatch panels?

sandsk8erz400

iTrader: (1)

The 2 ohm and 4 ohm stuff has to do with the impedance of the subs. Amps put out different amounts of power at different impedances. The one they listed does 600w @ 2ohms and 1000w @ 1ohm. When you have multiple subs, depending on how you wire up the subs, you can get a different overall impedance.

Haven't heard of the audiopipe brand before, but if the guys at Kee have tested it out, I'd say it's good to go. Never dealt with them personally, but I've been on the forums for a while, and have always heard good things about them.

I'd suggest just doing away with the hatch speakers and pick up another amp for the rest of the highs if you have the money.

my bandit

iTrader: (10)

Alright. And I've heard nothing but good things about kee too. It seems as if my hatch speakers are louder than my sails. Any reason what that is? If this has anything to do with it, my HU is a kenwood ddx512 (touch screen)

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

My suggestion is to either skip the hatch all together or replace them with a decent coaxial. This is with the stock system in place. With a good coaxial you would be fine and have better clarity from them.
Try it without them first and see what you think as it is easy to do. Just disconnect them and put the hatch plastic back in place. Run it like that a couple of days to get used to it, maybe even a week just to get a feel and listen to different kinds of music you normally listen to. Then if you feel you need them come talk to me and I can set you up with several different options that will be better then the stock ones.

Audiopipe has been around a long time and I generally do NOT like alot of the products they have. Yep, said I don't like them, with the exception of some of the amps they have. I heard some good things about the things used in there amps and started taking notice and started testing a few. These things hit hard and take up hardly any space. The little 300watt RMS amp is cool as hell. It is tiny and has a real 300watts RMS at 1ohm....yes 1 ohm stable from a mini amp. 1ohm stability is usually found on higher priced amps not a $100 mini amp. And is does use a single 40 amp fuse so you know it is real power.
The 1000watt version has no internal fuse. You must use your own fuse block which is easy to do. I really like these mini amps and have one hitting my CDT QES-1020 sub currently in my DD. It really does the job well.

my bandit

iTrader: (10)

i forgot to add. i have JL tr's i believe in the doors and sail panels but right now im running this amp with my 2 kenwoods but i havent found many reviews on the audiopipe but it sounds like it could work
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-tzqUnny...-MRP-M450.html

i think i have an external fuse already leading to my amp thats under my hood. so i might just need to pop in a new fuse

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

That's exactly right. I can also supply you with an additional fuse if you need one.
I was surprised at the price vs. performance on this little amp.
Here are the insides of one I found:
http://media.photobucket.com/image/A...iopipeguts.jpg

my bandit

iTrader: (10)

I'm about sold on this one. Just a few more questions. Where would you rank this in quality to say a higher watt alpine like mine? L know the price is waayy different.
Also this will most likely be attached to the side of my box that's carpeted. Will the fan being covered (since its on the bottom) be an issue? I don't want it to overheat for it being blocked.
And is your price including shipping?

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

I have mine mounted to the back of a panel and there is no problem for the fan. The mounts stick up a bit to allow for airflow.
I would say that the quality of the inside components on this amp are as good as Alpines. You just are not paying for the Alpine name on the front.
Price includes shipping in the US.

my bandit

iTrader: (10)

sweet i will be ordering soon! they are loud right now on the alpine... i cant wait to see what this one will do to them