Removing anti lock brakes
#3
The motor most certainly DOES go in from the top... You just can't have anything on it except for the intake (ie, no front accessories, no headers) and the flywheel/clutch...
You also need a "happy hooker" or you need to fabone up. It is a plate that bolts to the top of the intake with an offset to the front and a swivel bar... Drops the motor right in, you just need to have the motor sideways to begin with... Drop it in and once the drivers side valve-cover clears you turn the motor while it is in the engine bay...
If you are talented, you can do it with only the fan shroud up top removed, ie the radiator and cowl and everything else can stay in place...
#5
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
#6
10 Second Club
iTrader: (63)
I have pulled and installed my motor (too) many times in my '94 Z28 with intake on and from the top. Cannot do it with fuel rails/regulator on there now with the AFR heads/LT4 manifold, but definitely did it with the LT1 intake manifold on back in the day.
Here's an old pic for proof. This is 2005, pulling the 355 LT1 out to put in a 385 LT4 stroker.
Here's an old pic for proof. This is 2005, pulling the 355 LT1 out to put in a 385 LT4 stroker.
#9
Problem with that is you might as well drop it out the bottom at that rate. To get it out of the top that way you have to pull the radiatior, the A/C condensor and all that jazz... Use a pull-plate and it comes out by pulling everything off it and twisting it sideways as it comes out... no need to recharge the A/C or anything else as it all stays connected...
#11
10 Second Club
iTrader: (63)
Problem with that is you might as well drop it out the bottom at that rate. To get it out of the top that way you have to pull the radiatior, the A/C condensor and all that jazz... Use a pull-plate and it comes out by pulling everything off it and twisting it sideways as it comes out... no need to recharge the A/C or anything else as it all stays connected...
#12
Forget the engine. I just want to get rid of the weight and mess. Has a Dana 60 so no rear tone wheel or pickup, no ABS. No need for all the BS under the hood. Also want to get the evaporator out, but not right now.
Al 95 Z28, engine went right in sans the intake. The problem was the angle was so steep to clear the crank pulley and rear of the intake I could see a disaster, so I removed the intake.
Al 95 Z28, engine went right in sans the intake. The problem was the angle was so steep to clear the crank pulley and rear of the intake I could see a disaster, so I removed the intake.
#13
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
Master to prop valve to rear feed line to rubber hose with a t to metal lines on axle to rubber lines to the calipers.
Master to 3/16 inverted brake T to hard lines to each front hose to caliper.
Grab a handful of abs lulz and tug. Computer under dash above your left foot area, smash with a hammer.
Master to 3/16 inverted brake T to hard lines to each front hose to caliper.
Grab a handful of abs lulz and tug. Computer under dash above your left foot area, smash with a hammer.
#14
We've got an ABS delete kit to do what you're looking for. http://sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_brk_...0Delete%20Kits
BTW, I've removed the engine from the top and the bottom. Bottom is the easiest with least hassle.
BTW, I've removed the engine from the top and the bottom. Bottom is the easiest with least hassle.