5_LTR_ETR

im asking because im not doing the swap at home and i have the bring all my own tools to my friends place to do it. i have a 3 jaw puller, valve spring compressor etc... as well basic wrenches and sockets.

is there anything i should make sure to get as far as any larger sockets or deep sockets, wrenches or any other random tool that will make things easier?

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

Basic hand tools, socket sets, and wrenches should do it. If your changing the timing chain make sure that the puller you have will fit over the gear. Some loc-tite will needed aswell. Also a big bucket to catch all the antifreeze.

greenZ96

iTrader: (6)

band-aids, and beer, lots of beer.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Things that you know you need, but will forget once you start the work:
3 jaw puller for crank pulley
Three 3" bolts for cam snout when first removing cam from block
Assortment of extensions including a wobble for the water pump bolt behind the power steering pump pulley.
1 gal. of coolant and 1 gal of water
Brake cleaner
either an install lube or 30wt oil when stabbing the new cam
clean rags

Keep the install as clean as possible. When the timing cover is off the oil pan is like a catch all so it's a good idea to cover the opening immediately upon removal of the timing cover. There is so much crap that needs to be scraped off the block it can easily end up in the bottom of the pan. IMO that is why so many cam installs have bearing issues.
Unless by some miracle the oil pan gasket may rip when taking the timing cover off. Putting a new gasket on is not necessary. Once the timing cover goes back on you can put a bead between the tears in the pan gasket, bolt up the pan and let it sit for around 12 hours before starting.

5_LTR_ETR

there will be beer you can count on that...

right now my list of things to get are:
rags
small torque wrench
big bucket
oil catch pan
3 bolts for cam
coolant
oil/filter
oil level sensor delete plug (anyone know what to use?)
i have a 4" puller. i assume thats big enough?
im trying to way over prepare for this haha

ss rrr brought me to another question... I plan on changing the pan gasket as well. i have a tubular k member and theres no way im separating the motor from the mounts. it took 3 hours to get the one bolt through the mount when i put it in (umi welded it crooked) can the pan gasket be changed without dropping the k member? the gasket i have is not stretchable

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

I pulled the timing cover with the oil pan in place and only dropped the pan for reinstallation. That solves the objects in the oil pan problem.

shbox

Not really. If you are going to lower it anyway, why would you not do it in the beginning like you should? The timing cover would come off more easily. The pan fits over the bottom of the timing cover. I don't know why people are reluctant to do disassemble it the right way.

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

Yes, really. The fact that I did it with ease proves this a valid option. Though I wouldn't say it's always possible.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you'll be able to get the pan completely off with a tubular k-member. I've never dealt with one so I don't know. You may be able to get it lower than with a stock k-member so maybe you'll be able to get a new gasket in place easier?

No it doesn't. With the timing cover off the front of the pan is still just as open as if it were lowered. The point is gasket material and whatever else can easily fall into the opening, and even if you see something fall in it makes it a real pain in the *** to retrieve everything. It's just an all around good idea that if you are going to have a part of the engine exposed to the outside world it's always a good idea to use a clean rag or equiv. to use as cover. The timing cover gasket needs to be scraped off as well as water pump gaskets and you're stating it isn't necessary to cover the front of the oil pan?
I'm not sure how you were able to take the timing cover off "with ease" when the oil pan was in place unless you or someone else ground the timing cover down...

I just thought of an experiment you could do to see if your theory is correct:

1. Pull your bottom lip out as far as you can
2. Let someone throw a bucket of dirt in your face
3. See just how clean your pie hole is afterwards
4. Post vid for proof

shbox

What I meant by "not really" was that it does not keep junk from getting in the pan. I guess you can do anything on a car if you use enough brute force. Do it right or risk tearing up stuff.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

lmfao

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

I did. Sooo.... Throwing dirt vs not being a slob is a terrible analogy. Then again I also had zero issues in my cam swap. I guess I'm special.

5_LTR_ETR

i guess the point is, yes its possible to be careful and not have any problems... but its a easy, free precaution, that literly takes 20 seconds to do... why even argue about this...

anyone have any info or links about changing a pan gasket with a tubular k member?
also, im assuming i can use the 4" 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley, hub, and gear? is re-installing as easy as tapping them back on? or do i Need an install tool for any of these? what size is the nut on the front of the crank?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

No reason. You get it. LSWHO doesn't.

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

I get it. I'm not arguing.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

need a fuel line disconnect tool as well.

5_LTR_ETR

just got a set thanks