Disconnecting Filler Hose?
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Disconnecting Filler Hose?
I'm about to drop the tank, but I'm not sure of the best way to disconnect the fuel filler hose. I opened the flap in the wheel well and can see the hose. How do I disconnect that hose clamp, and more importantly how do you replace a clamp like that?
#7
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You're not kidding. Aside from the fact that it was 95 degrees and 95% humidity in the garage, I was sitting here staring at it wondering what the hell was holding the tank up in the car. It wasn't till I dropped the car back down and looked inside the gas tank door that I saw the bolt.
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#8
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Well it took me two hours just to disconnect the hose, straps, lower the tank and fail at pulling out the pump. I also bent the hell out of one of the plastic lines, but it doesn't look ruined. I'll have to give it another try this weekend hopefully when i have more time. I think I'll try to clean around it with some wd40 on the next try. I was hammering away at the lock ring and the screw driver was just cutting into it.
Last edited by 105; 07-20-2011 at 08:54 PM.
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Absolutely! I felt like a genius when it dawned on me to use it. My dumb *** was using a standard jack at first. Trying to hold it steady with one hand and lowering it with the other, all the while a quarter tank of fuel is sloshing back and forth.
#11
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I was able to syphon most all of the gas out of the tank before I dropped mine, which made life a lot easier.
Also, I used a piece of wood on the locking ring because it wouldn't damage anything, and it wouldn't make a spark either being hit by a hammer. Make sure you try and hit every tab a little bit to loosen it. Part of what's holding it up from rotating is the rubber gasket under it. So hitting every tab will help to break that tension and allow the ring to twist.
Also, I used a piece of wood on the locking ring because it wouldn't damage anything, and it wouldn't make a spark either being hit by a hammer. Make sure you try and hit every tab a little bit to loosen it. Part of what's holding it up from rotating is the rubber gasket under it. So hitting every tab will help to break that tension and allow the ring to twist.
#13
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I'm not sure if you're just pointing at it or not, but you need to be hitting the brass colored locking ring in a counter clockwise direction and you need to hit every tab a couple times. Trust me, it's going to take a good bit of force to undo it. Don't be afraid to really hit it.
#14
Yes not only were you hitting it in the wrong direction but you were trying loosen the wrong part. the brass colored ring is the locking ring. Remember: Righty tighty, lefty loosey.
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You have to lift up the housing, and gently pull it out. The bucket is nearly the same diameter as the opening, so a small falt tip screwdriver can be used to slip it out, but don't pull it all the way out. The fuel level sender is attatched and the hole sender unit needs to be tilted slightly to get it out.
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You have to lift up the housing, and gently pull it out. The bucket is nearly the same diameter as the opening, so a small falt tip screwdriver can be used to slip it out, but don't pull it all the way out. The fuel level sender is attatched and the hole sender unit needs to be tilted slightly to get it out.
The whole reason I'm doing this is because the pump is not holding pressure when I turn the key to prime. I checked this with a guage at the rail. I have to turn the key 3 or 4 times before attempting to turn over.