best gears to put in 6 speed?
07-12-2011, 07:09 PM
#1
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best gears to put in 6 speed? I have a 98 z28 and have manual transmission. I want to put different gears in my car . I am thinking 373 will be best for everyday driving / racing . My car has heads,cam,springs,long tubes,Hurst shifter, and more. But I need more pull. Any suggestions?
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07-13-2011, 10:43 AM
#10
Far too many people break these and I believe that is from improper setup. Strange how factory setup rears can go 100k miles without issue, but when people put gears in, everything goes to hell.
Having setup 10-bolts, 12-bolts and Dana 60s, I will say the 10-bolt is one of the biggest PITA to get "right". Issue is if you are not 100% dead-on you run the real risk it will break.
I just did a complete buildup of a 10-bolt for my driveline redo on my '95 Z28. I had a good housing (was checked for straightness of the axle tubes) with a good Eaton Posi (only 20k miles on it) and the axle already had Spohn relo brackets welded on to start with. I replaced everything else internally (new Motive Performance 3.73 gears, new Timken bearings, new Moser axles, solid pinion spacer, ARP cap studs, LPW Ultimate cover with thier axle brace kit), welded up the axles tubes, and set it up perfectly. I have .006-.007" backlash and the pattern is perfect (I got the pinion depth to exactly where it was stated on the pinion head as well, so it is not suprising it is dead-on).
I fully expect the "built" 10-bolt to handle the 700+hp I am going to throw at it (new 383 supercharged/aftercooled LT1). Needless to say I also have a Spohn super-duty driveshaft as well between the rear and the T56 (also just rebuilt) which is coupled to the motor by a McLeod Street-Twin.
If you know of a shop that has a great reputation and you can trust to do it right, then go for it. Be sure to put in a solid pinion spacer as well (I heard the Yukon is better than the Ratech that I used). If you don't have a good shop you can trust, then pass and just save up for a 12-bolt or S60.
07-13-2011, 02:19 PM
#11
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That does make since thanks for the opinion . I might as well build the test end or go better before doing all the gears and breaking it. If that was to happen It would cost out the *** and prob mess up other stuff in the process
07-13-2011, 03:02 PM
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what size tire are you on?
26"=4.10
28"=4.56
in my m6 car i had 4.10 gears in my 10 bolt & i went from 26" to 28" tire & noticed a difference so we put 4.56 gears in & it was back to normal feeling of the 26" tire & 4.10 gears.....
26"=4.10
28"=4.56
in my m6 car i had 4.10 gears in my 10 bolt & i went from 26" to 28" tire & noticed a difference so we put 4.56 gears in & it was back to normal feeling of the 26" tire & 4.10 gears.....
07-14-2011, 10:39 AM
#14
The problem is if the rear end has any issues at all, it probably will.
Far too many people break these and I believe that is from improper setup. Strange how factory setup rears can go 100k miles without issue, but when people put gears in, everything goes to hell.
Having setup 10-bolts, 12-bolts and Dana 60s, I will say the 10-bolt is one of the biggest PITA to get "right". Issue is if you are not 100% dead-on you run the real risk it will break.
I just did a complete buildup of a 10-bolt for my driveline redo on my '95 Z28. I had a good housing (was checked for straightness of the axle tubes) with a good Eaton Posi (only 20k miles on it) and the axle already had Spohn relo brackets welded on to start with. I replaced everything else internally (new Motive Performance 3.73 gears, new Timken bearings, new Moser axles, solid pinion spacer, ARP cap studs, LPW Ultimate cover with thier axle brace kit), welded up the axles tubes, and set it up perfectly. I have .006-.007" backlash and the pattern is perfect (I got the pinion depth to exactly where it was stated on the pinion head as well, so it is not suprising it is dead-on).
I fully expect the "built" 10-bolt to handle the 700+hp I am going to throw at it (new 383 supercharged/aftercooled LT1). Needless to say I also have a Spohn super-duty driveshaft as well between the rear and the T56 (also just rebuilt) which is coupled to the motor by a McLeod Street-Twin.
If you know of a shop that has a great reputation and you can trust to do it right, then go for it. Be sure to put in a solid pinion spacer as well (I heard the Yukon is better than the Ratech that I used). If you don't have a good shop you can trust, then pass and just save up for a 12-bolt or S60.
Far too many people break these and I believe that is from improper setup. Strange how factory setup rears can go 100k miles without issue, but when people put gears in, everything goes to hell.
Having setup 10-bolts, 12-bolts and Dana 60s, I will say the 10-bolt is one of the biggest PITA to get "right". Issue is if you are not 100% dead-on you run the real risk it will break.
I just did a complete buildup of a 10-bolt for my driveline redo on my '95 Z28. I had a good housing (was checked for straightness of the axle tubes) with a good Eaton Posi (only 20k miles on it) and the axle already had Spohn relo brackets welded on to start with. I replaced everything else internally (new Motive Performance 3.73 gears, new Timken bearings, new Moser axles, solid pinion spacer, ARP cap studs, LPW Ultimate cover with thier axle brace kit), welded up the axles tubes, and set it up perfectly. I have .006-.007" backlash and the pattern is perfect (I got the pinion depth to exactly where it was stated on the pinion head as well, so it is not suprising it is dead-on).
I fully expect the "built" 10-bolt to handle the 700+hp I am going to throw at it (new 383 supercharged/aftercooled LT1). Needless to say I also have a Spohn super-duty driveshaft as well between the rear and the T56 (also just rebuilt) which is coupled to the motor by a McLeod Street-Twin.
If you know of a shop that has a great reputation and you can trust to do it right, then go for it. Be sure to put in a solid pinion spacer as well (I heard the Yukon is better than the Ratech that I used). If you don't have a good shop you can trust, then pass and just save up for a 12-bolt or S60.
Good luck to you sir.
Mike
07-16-2011, 10:33 AM
#17
Sure the 10 bolt is a weak link, but if you aren't beating the **** out of the car things should hold up just fine. Both 10 bolts I've owned have held up with great success. Granted I don't hit it hard from hole shots or do burn outs that often. My 10 bolt w/ 4.10's made it down the track with no issues 15 times last year. Some have good luck with them and some don't. So far I've put 4k miles on mine with more power added since the track and they keep on ticking.
Last edited by *02WS6TURK*; 07-16-2011 at 10:43 AM.
07-17-2011, 07:40 PM
#18
Sure the 10 bolt is a weak link, but if you aren't beating the **** out of the car things should hold up just fine. Both 10 bolts I've owned have held up with great success. Granted I don't hit it hard from hole shots or do burn outs that often. My 10 bolt w/ 4.10's made it down the track with no issues 15 times last year. Some have good luck with them and some don't. So far I've put 4k miles on mine with more power added since the track and they keep on ticking.
Mike
08-08-2011, 12:03 AM
#20
I have 430's and a 26" tire also. I thought that it would be too much gear, but i think it is an awesome combo. I had 373's before and that wasn't bad, but it always seemed like it wasn't in the right rpm range. My car is H/C and I definitely think gear selection should be based on where and how much power your car makes, as well as the weight of the car. Heavy cars need more gear. For me, the 430's make 6th gear useable on back roads at 55mph and on the highway 70mph is right around 2000 rpm. Car will spin the tires at will in 1st or 2nd at any rpm. Depending on how you like to drive that could be a plus or minus.