LS7ICEMAN

The plastic piece on my oil pump drive has snapped i have a 355 lt1 with the advanced induction head cam intake package...is there a drive i could find that's all metal? Or atleast a metal replacement for the plastic piece? Links are appreciated

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

www.pro-jectioneng.com
www.herronperformance.com

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Oooooooo! Non-sponsor link!!!!!!!

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

I have a brand new never used Shon Herron billet aluminum housing with a Comp composite gear for $250 shipped, PM me if you're interested.

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...T1parts014.jpg

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...T1parts013.jpg

food nd cars

that is a nice piece. I almost bought one, but my stocker looked fine so i got the projection oil pump saver instead

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Not against the rules

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Get the Melling All-metal Driveshaft from Autozone for like $5...unless the price changed. It was cheap when I got it.

kelobro

Looks like these web sites are shut down. Anyone know where to get one of these billet housings today?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/me...make/chevrolet

The title says it's a nylon sleeve, but the description states it is steel. You can always call Summit to confirm.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I think there is some confusion between the billet drive unit and an all steel driveshaft.

The driveshaft is a common gen 1 motor part, the $15 price on summit there is twice what I paid them a few years ago when I bought Melling was $7 and ARP was $12 seeing as the OEM plastic sleeve isn't that bad I figured the Melling more than sufficient.

The drive itself is dealer or the several posts above expired link to a billet unit.

SS RRR

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Whoopsie.

kelobro

You are correct. I'm looking for the billet housing. The plastic housing on my LT1 is cracked. I'd prefer to replace it with something that doesn't crack.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...il-Pump-Drives

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

stop over torquing them?

BALLSS

even tq to spec the 19+ year old plastic is more brittle than new and can often crack. just making the small bolt "snug" with some loc-tite on threads works

IIRC there was someone making a cnc "cap" that just went over the plastic part. Have not seen one for some time.

I see in the link in post above someone is making Shons full cnc version again for $125

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Realistically a scrap of metal or even a larger washer trimmed on one side can go a long ways towards insurance and used as a secondary hold down.

Really though almost all the risk is during install, haven't seen a report of one cracking in use and causing a problem, basically always during install.

94FBIRD

iTrader: (5)

Didn't few fail in use, because of high volume oil pumps?

BALLSS

from what I have "heard" (read not seen) the HV pump was attributed for wiping the gear on the drive, not cracking the plastic top. My $02 is in some if not all of those cases was a HV pump was used with stock bearing clearance motors or with billet geared cams. Or on re-install they were over tightened, plastic cracked then broke causing the drive gear to lift and wipe the gears on it against the cam gears as the two gears separated

HV pumps have a purpose and like any part are not for "every" motor or build.

I agree with Caprice that the majority cause of the plastic top cracking is over TQ (not necessarily over spec TQ but over TQ for a aging piece of plastic) on install after a cam swap using a 19-23 year old part that has a plastic top. I suspect the designers of the LT1 did not expect oil pump shaft plastic collars or the drive gears themselves to be a item removed and re-installed a few times especially after 100k mi

As Caprice noted a small washer that would fit in the recess flush with top then a larger washer over it and more of the plastic top would help "distribute" the clamp force from the very small area the stock bolt touches. maybe use a 1/4" longer bolt also if doing the stacked washer deal.

FWIW I have a HV pump and have had it in a motor for 9 years now. My motor was built with wider bearing clearances. I pulled it recently to look for any signs of wear when I did a rear manifold leak fix. It looked brand new. It is the original one and is 19 years old now

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I've been aweseomly lucky then.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

I never had a problem with my plastic drive but I'd still use a drive saver to help distribute load across the plastic more evenly. You can make a drive saver tab with some steel and a dremel in <5 minutes.