UMI Tq Arm tunnel mount brace problems
#1
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UMI Tq Arm tunnel mount brace problems
What the fnck am i supposed to do with this thing?!?!? Car has eibach pro lines in it and the ****** won't even clear a 2x4 board.
I bought the UMI Tq Arm with the tunnel brace mount with drive shaft loop and the one designed for aftermarket exhaust and y-pipe. I can't even pull it into my garage without it high centering, what a absolute unacceptable design. How are people supposed to run them on the street? I drove it down the highway and hit a bump in the road and it hit. I thought it was gonna rip the thing right off of my car. The drive shaft loop rubs the drive shaft ever so slightly all the way around it too.
Is there anything that can be done? anyone else have these problems too?
I bought the UMI Tq Arm with the tunnel brace mount with drive shaft loop and the one designed for aftermarket exhaust and y-pipe. I can't even pull it into my garage without it high centering, what a absolute unacceptable design. How are people supposed to run them on the street? I drove it down the highway and hit a bump in the road and it hit. I thought it was gonna rip the thing right off of my car. The drive shaft loop rubs the drive shaft ever so slightly all the way around it too.
Is there anything that can be done? anyone else have these problems too?
#2
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Those things don't really have much adjustment so I think you're kinda boned. Having that with the Sportlines is probably just not going to work. Now I have to ask, why did you go with the shorter tunnel mounted TA? They are really meant for drag cars and you having Sportlines is already negating anything you would gain with that TA. I'd suggest a full length arm for you with those springs and a Spohn DS loop to retain as much clearance as possible for your exhaust and the ground. I know that's probably not what you wanted to hear but sadly with those springs you limit your options.
Last edited by tpunk; 07-17-2011 at 11:20 AM.
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Yeah sorry I ment prokit. I bought the tunnel mount because my tail shaft is shot! Rethreaded it to a bigger bolt like 3 times and I hate the fact its in the way when I remove the trans. The fact that its put back I was told it will be more effective and its out of the way.
When I go to the track I run my stock springs with no insulators. But I daily drive the thing I want it to look sharp while doing so!
So no one has modifed these things yet? Any other options for tunnel brace mount?
When I go to the track I run my stock springs with no insulators. But I daily drive the thing I want it to look sharp while doing so!
So no one has modifed these things yet? Any other options for tunnel brace mount?
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#8
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Besides changing up that mounting brace or putting the stock springs back on you really don't have too many options. Most customers we have will use our full length torque arm along with our torque arm relocation transmission crossmember on cars that are lowered a considerable amount.
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#9
FormerVendor
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The problem is there is so many y-pipes out there for these cars anymore we have to try to make something that will clear them all.
That mount is designed to clear lower hanging y-pipes and y-pipes with merge collectors and to be honest it still rubs some of those y-pipes.
I am not sure the exact brand y-pipe you have but you might have been okay with our part #2201.
I run this same arm on my car, lowered front but stock height springs and I don't rub anywhere. I did try to straddle a porcupine the other day and the poor guy hit the brace... I bet that hurt...
That mount is designed to clear lower hanging y-pipes and y-pipes with merge collectors and to be honest it still rubs some of those y-pipes.
I am not sure the exact brand y-pipe you have but you might have been okay with our part #2201.
I run this same arm on my car, lowered front but stock height springs and I don't rub anywhere. I did try to straddle a porcupine the other day and the poor guy hit the brace... I bet that hurt...
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The problem is there is so many y-pipes out there for these cars anymore we have to try to make something that will clear them all.
That mount is designed to clear lower hanging y-pipes and y-pipes with merge collectors and to be honest it still rubs some of those y-pipes.
I am not sure the exact brand y-pipe you have but you might have been okay with our part #2201.
I run this same arm on my car, lowered front but stock height springs and I don't rub anywhere. I did try to straddle a porcupine the other day and the poor guy hit the brace... I bet that hurt...
That mount is designed to clear lower hanging y-pipes and y-pipes with merge collectors and to be honest it still rubs some of those y-pipes.
I am not sure the exact brand y-pipe you have but you might have been okay with our part #2201.
I run this same arm on my car, lowered front but stock height springs and I don't rub anywhere. I did try to straddle a porcupine the other day and the poor guy hit the brace... I bet that hurt...
Your website describes when ordering my tq arm that the cross brace i got is basically ment for anything aftermarket and the other one will ONLY FIT STOCK Y-PIPE.
it would be nice to include in item discription that this part is strongly a race desired set up and has horrible ground clearance.
I ordered my Tq Arm from Speed Inc since you guys wouldn't match their price over memorial day so it was a good deal. Even tho, would you be willing to do anything to work something out in exchange for the new tq arm brace with drive shaft loop?
#12
FormerVendor
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I don't know if the Hooker will clear the straight version or not, every y-pipe is a little different. The way to tell is crawl under the car and run a straight edge across the mounts where cross member bolts. The straight cross member will be a 1/2" lower then the straight edge. This is the best way to tell if it will clear or not. We can usually help over the phone before an item is purchased to recommend what is best. The website does a good job for the most part but many brands update, change and new brands are always developed so it does make it very tough for us.
If you are looking at going with a 4" merge you will need this item, I think that is what you meant?
Since the transaction was completed through Speed Inc it is tough for us to offer an exchange on my end. I could figure something out. Since the item is bolted to the car we would have to charge to disassemble it and re-coat the item since it couldn't be sold as new anymore. We could then give you some credit towards the straight crossmember if you think it would clear.
If you are looking at going with a 4" merge you will need this item, I think that is what you meant?
Since the transaction was completed through Speed Inc it is tough for us to offer an exchange on my end. I could figure something out. Since the item is bolted to the car we would have to charge to disassemble it and re-coat the item since it couldn't be sold as new anymore. We could then give you some credit towards the straight crossmember if you think it would clear.
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I don't know if the Hooker will clear the straight version or not, every y-pipe is a little different. The way to tell is crawl under the car and run a straight edge across the mounts where cross member bolts. The straight cross member will be a 1/2" lower then the straight edge. This is the best way to tell if it will clear or not. We can usually help over the phone before an item is purchased to recommend what is best. The website does a good job for the most part but many brands update, change and new brands are always developed so it does make it very tough for us.
If you are looking at going with a 4" merge you will need this item, I think that is what you meant?
Since the transaction was completed through Speed Inc it is tough for us to offer an exchange on my end. I could figure something out. Since the item is bolted to the car we would have to charge to disassemble it and re-coat the item since it couldn't be sold as new anymore. We could then give you some credit towards the straight crossmember if you think it would clear.
If you are looking at going with a 4" merge you will need this item, I think that is what you meant?
Since the transaction was completed through Speed Inc it is tough for us to offer an exchange on my end. I could figure something out. Since the item is bolted to the car we would have to charge to disassemble it and re-coat the item since it couldn't be sold as new anymore. We could then give you some credit towards the straight crossmember if you think it would clear.
#15
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how is that ok with you tho? i mean if it was exhaust yeah no big deal it will clearance itself, but we're talking one sturdy *** brace here that if you hit a big bump it could **** some **** up. I bottomed out on a bump on the highway at 60mph the other night. i was pretty scared of what was gonna happen. haven't driven it since and driving it to car craft this weekend.
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i'm still considering cutting up the one i got and putting a renforcment brace right on top of where it goes across now and cut the bottom off. of course i'll have to take into consideration very carefully the placement of the drive shaft loop.