CARPOOLS1

So here's my story.

I got my 1998 Z28 a few months ago, and it has a few problems. At anything over 5300 or so rpms, the clutch would stick to the ground and I couldn't shift. And even if I could, it was exactly the same as shifting with no clutch. (the rpms would never drop as I stepped on the clutch, it's like the fluid wasn't getting there fast enough for something. And yes, I do know about the drill mod but my car shouldn't be doing that at anything less than 6000rpm). So I basically figured I needed a new master and slave. I decided to do the whole thing. I bought a new master, slave, clutch kit, and a new flywheel, just so I didn't have to pay for labor twice. So I get it all installed, get my car back, and it's like it hits some type of limiter when it gets to 3500rpms or something. Like fuel cut. The technition said it was the computer and I needed it tuned. After a few days of driving it, I think the "computer" adapted, because it ran BEAUTIFULLY. I shifted at 6000rpm every time with no problems at all. Felt GREAT. Then all of the sudden the clutch engagement point started getting weird. Then a few hours later I could barely get it into gear at all. Like I'll be sitting at a stop light and I put my foot fully on the clutch and try to put it into first and the car will start rolling forward before it even gets into gear, and I have to JAM it in to gear. Reverse is out of the question, there's no way I can put it into reverse. So I figured they didn't bleed it right and there was a bubble. I take it in the next morning, and they try to bleed it. The master isn't holding pressure, and the slave is leaking badly (keep in mind these are both brand new oem parts). He takes everything apart again and figures out that I gave him the wrong type of flywheel (the depth was a bit different). So he resurfaces the old flywheel, gets a new master and another new slave and puts it all in. I picked the car up today, and it ran perfect... For about 45 minutes. Then it got harder and harder to shift, the clutch engagement point started going further and further down, and now I'm at the point again where I can't get it into gear at all.

What the hell is the problem? Has anyone ever experienced anything like this?

I'm going to take it in tomorrow morning for him to try to bleed it again, but I'm 99% sure it's going to be the exact same thing as last time.

Please help ASAP. Thanks guys :/

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Quit taking it to that guy first of all. Seems to me the "technician" tried to blame it on the computer because he didn't know what the hell was going on either.

It sounds like you have a small leak if the engagement point is going farther down. Keep an eye on the clutch master cylinder reservoir fluid level. Do you know how to bleed the hydrualic system yourself? If not I can walk you through it as it is easy to do.

- Was the hydraulic line from the master replaced as well or just the shaft assembly of the master etc?
- What clutch did you have put in it the 2nd time OEM?
- The reverse is most likely related to the reverse lockout solenoid. Get under there and tap it a couple times (on the driver side somewhere can't remember) and hop back in and see if you can get it in gear with the car running of course.

CARPOOLS1

Yes. Hydraulic line was replaced.

The new clutch was OEM. I got the flywheel (wrong one) from autozone.

I think I'm just going to rip it apart myself and see what I can see. It just sucks. And I don't think any fluid is leaking about because the bottle is still full. It's just like it's losing pressure or something.


EDIT: And no, I don't know how to bleed it myself. Is there a guide you can link me to? Thanks!

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

If its losing pressure it is either a leak or an air bubble that needs to be bled. But if there was air in it then it wouldn't be fine for 45 minutes and all of a sudden be messed up. Weird situation.

CARPOOLS1

Tell me about it >.<

I'll be sure to post on here when things get figured out. IF they get figured out...

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Here is some good links.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-write-up.html

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

If you are around your car right now, go out there, jack up the driver side and feel about 1/2 way up on the bellhousing and find the slave's bleeder screw. If it is slightly loose you will gradually lose pressure and the clutch would reflect this. Grab a 7/16th” socket, thin-walled, and ¼ drive and try to tighten it up.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

For this to work for a short period of time without issue only to have the problem return it has to be relative to the hydraulics. Definitely check the bleeder and check the fluid. Is it dark or discolored? Is the line that runs from the master to the slave routed behind the heat sheild? Do you have long-tube headers? If you you will want to wrap the line with a good heat resistant wrap. Check it and let me know what you find. Thanks,

CARPOOLS1

Bleeder is fine, and the fluid is all new.

I just brought it in this morning and tried to get the system bled. It still holds pressure and bleeds, but it doesn't change the engagement point.

He also checked for any leaks, and didn't find any anywhere. No fluid has escaped.

His new theory is that the clutch was somehow different (bigger) than my old one, and when it goes through it's heat cycles and expands, it changes the engagement point. He ordered something to move the flywheel a little bit. He's getting the part tomorrow morning and it should be done a few hours after.

I'm giving him one more shot, and if that doesn't work, I'm taking it somewhere else.

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

If you got the clutch for your car how could it be bigger? And how was the flywheel the wrong one? Sounds to me like your "technician" doesn't know what he is doing.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Did he loctite the pressure plate bolts? Could be they're backing out and causing it not to be able to fully disengage.

TDP

iTrader: (23)

Everything is pointing towards the master. If it works great, then starts to crap out, normally the master has an internal leak where fluid is bypassing the o-rings. Or it might even be an o-ring inside the line, not necessarily in the master itself. I'd check/replace the o-rings at each end of the hydraulic line. You'll find one on the male end of the quick-connect fitting to the slave, and the other is really small, located where the line goes into the master. You'll have to remove the master, then use a 1/16in punch in order to remove the roll pin. Then the line will pull right out. If it's not drilled out to +/- 1/8in, then go ahead and carefully do the 'drill mod'. Though it will not "fix" your problem, it won't hurt anything. Also might want to make sure they didn't cram 2 seals into the hole (seen that before). Be sure to blow all the metal shavings out with compressed air (press in on the quick connect in order to blow thru it). Maybe they didn't do this correctly. I'd start here, though seeing as how oyu've replaced everything twice now! Good luck!

CARPOOLS1

Turns out it was the flywheel (again). When it got resurfaced it took some off and didn't line up correctly. He put in a spacer and it runs like a new car now.

Thanks for the help everyone!