ANOTHER window issue... Starting to see a trend
07-21-2011, 03:32 PM
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ANOTHER window issue... Starting to see a trend A while back, I installed the diy autotrix on the passenger side, and since then, my driver's side window has been acting up. I'm not entirely sure whether it's a related issue, or just a matter of the window motor system being junk from the get-go. The problem I'm having is that the motor will work when I press the switch, but only for a short time. The window will get 1/2 to 3/4 down, then just stop. It is fairly slow, but not slow enough to make me believe that the motor itself is dying. The weird part is that if I wait a few minutes, it will start working again, and the amount of time that I wait seems to be proportional to how long to motor will work. My best guess would be a bad switch, but 
07-24-2011, 08:08 PM
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Replace the regulator and motor together. The regulator causes the motor to go bad. Thats why replacement motors will work for a little while, then **** out again. Autotrix is just a band-aid.
07-27-2011, 09:19 AM
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all GM's have the motor problem, my pass. side on my SS is slow, my winter beater alero pass side does the same... thats why i wouldnt mind roll ups once in a while 
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07-28-2011, 11:06 PM
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Support the window. Unplug the motor connector. Remove the short slide near the rear of the door (13mm i think) Drill out the four rivets holding the regulator in (I forget if there is one more near the motor or not, I've been doing a lotta Cavaliers lately....). Once the rivets are out the regulator should snake out with the motor attached. Then re-install a new regulator/motor assembly. If you can get factory rivets I'd get them, if not some short 1/4" nuts/bolts will work. Just use some thin wire to hold the bolts to the regulator with the head pointing toward the inside of the door. Get it in there and you should be able to get an open end wrench in the door to hold the head while you tighten the nut on the outside. Then hook up the connector and enjoy your FIXED (not band-aid'd) window!
07-31-2011, 02:30 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tors-pics.html
I posted some more info on page 2 w a pic of what to remove & drill for replacement. if it still moves set it to the 1/2 way point & u only need to remove the 2 lower short slide bolts like FiredUpZ28 outlined in his replie. thear 10mm BTW, IIRC
I think thers a replasment write up hear that I used when I did mine?
But I cant find it now
but any way hope it helps & Good Luck
George #4
I posted some more info on page 2 w a pic of what to remove & drill for replacement. if it still moves set it to the 1/2 way point & u only need to remove the 2 lower short slide bolts like FiredUpZ28 outlined in his replie. thear 10mm BTW, IIRC
I think thers a replasment write up hear that I used when I did mine?
But I cant find it now
but any way hope it helps & Good Luck
George #4
07-31-2011, 02:55 PM
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See thats barbaric, taking chunks out of your door just to replace the motor. Just do the regulator its so much easier. "Fixing" the motor is an absolute waste of time since the motor isn't the root cause of the issue.
07-31-2011, 03:48 PM
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But it dose tell how to fix the motor also.
Evry thing on my regulator mooved freely short of the spring tenchon & I feal the bilt in safety feature was the root cause of the issue in my case. althow my car only has 60k & is from SoCal so i don't have any of the craze rust issues i used to deal with when I lived in ILL. Probbly the reason thay offer bolth opshons.
08-01-2011, 05:33 PM
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Its EASIER than replacing just the motor.
Support the window. Unplug the motor connector. Remove the short slide near the rear of the door (13mm i think) Drill out the four rivets holding the regulator in (I forget if there is one more near the motor or not, I've been doing a lotta Cavaliers lately....). Once the rivets are out the regulator should snake out with the motor attached. Then re-install a new regulator/motor assembly. If you can get factory rivets I'd get them, if not some short 1/4" nuts/bolts will work. Just use some thin wire to hold the bolts to the regulator with the head pointing toward the inside of the door. Get it in there and you should be able to get an open end wrench in the door to hold the head while you tighten the nut on the outside. Then hook up the connector and enjoy your FIXED (not band-aid'd) window!
Support the window. Unplug the motor connector. Remove the short slide near the rear of the door (13mm i think) Drill out the four rivets holding the regulator in (I forget if there is one more near the motor or not, I've been doing a lotta Cavaliers lately....). Once the rivets are out the regulator should snake out with the motor attached. Then re-install a new regulator/motor assembly. If you can get factory rivets I'd get them, if not some short 1/4" nuts/bolts will work. Just use some thin wire to hold the bolts to the regulator with the head pointing toward the inside of the door. Get it in there and you should be able to get an open end wrench in the door to hold the head while you tighten the nut on the outside. Then hook up the connector and enjoy your FIXED (not band-aid'd) window!
I'l see if i can get it to show in hear .. stll lerning the fourms & I'm Definity not a good writer
Sweet write up & Nice to know ! I dident see this or any thing about it when i was hunting info before i replased mine... 
But hears some hindsite info to help out.
My Dr side win stoped working about 1/2 a year ago & the pas is sooper slow..
I read up on the The Autotrix kit as well but did't feal like spending $35 on 2 $5 bosch relays.
I just hunted the DIY info for the fix... got my relays & a pear of 5-pin relay sockets for a clean install & ezes of replacing the relay if 1 wer to fail but I haven't done the Pas window yet! so il have to get back to you 
hears a diagram I fownd that shows how to wire the relays.
( sorry not sure whear I got the diagram from, wasn't planing on posting :/ or I'd give credit )
After spending a 1/2 hr trying to get the rgulator & motor out, using the info i fownd in anuther post
( your suposed to have it 1/2 way down mine was stuck in the closed pos )
finely i just unbolted all the tracks, then i was able to get it out with some finagiling If yours is is stuck & you dont want to drill holes in your door... theas are the bolts to remove to get the tracks out of the way & the pop rivits to drill out.
I think you culd probibly just leave motor on the regulator to bypass the resistor strip, no?
If i was wiling to drill holes in my door it wuld have made things go much faster & I think it's a grate Idea but my SS has under 70K I'm just don't think I'm guna do it So for those of you that feal the same you can spot weld or tape some 1/4" nuts on the back of the regulator & ues 1/4" x 7/20" (.350") buttin head #3 philips instead of pop riviting the Reg back in & if your removing the lift motor from the regulator well it's out, it's spring loded & it needs to be held in place.
this was Some of the stuff that wasent clear to me before hand & thout it may help now I'm going to go try fixing the old motor i replased! Thanx
But hears some hindsite info to help out.
My Dr side win stoped working about 1/2 a year ago & the pas is sooper slow..
I read up on the The Autotrix kit as well but did't feal like spending $35 on 2 $5 bosch relays.
I just hunted the DIY info for the fix... got my relays & a pear of 5-pin relay sockets for a clean install & ezes of replacing the relay if 1 wer to fail
but I haven't done the Pas window yet! so il have to get back to you hears a diagram I fownd that shows how to wire the relays.
( sorry not sure whear I got the diagram from, wasn't planing on posting :/ or I'd give credit )
After spending a 1/2 hr trying to get the rgulator & motor out, using the info i fownd in anuther post
( your suposed to have it 1/2 way down mine was stuck in the closed pos )
finely i just unbolted all the tracks, then i was able to get it out with some finagiling
If yours is is stuck & you dont want to drill holes in your door... theas are the bolts to remove to get the tracks out of the way & the pop rivits to drill out.I think you culd probibly just leave motor on the regulator to bypass the resistor strip, no?
If i was wiling to drill holes in my door it wuld have made things go much faster & I think it's a grate Idea but my SS has under 70K I'm just don't think I'm guna do it
So for those of you that feal the same you can spot weld or tape some 1/4" nuts on the back of the regulator & ues 1/4" x 7/20" (.350") buttin head #3 philips instead of pop riviting the Reg back in & if your removing the lift motor from the regulator well it's out, it's spring loded & it needs to be held in place.this was Some of the stuff that wasent clear to me before hand & thout it may help
now I'm going to go try fixing the old motor i replased! Thanxthe spring off the regulator?
I never let mine unbind... not shure
I thout thear was a write up on hear that I used when i did mine.. it sed not to let it release & how it get it back on If it did IIRC
But i just spent 2 hrs tring to find it for you & had no luck
it may have ben on a difrent site.
maybe try a
Search for "camaro window regulator spring replasment" ?
Or Hopefuly some one elce can chime in with the info... sorry
I never let mine unbind... not shure
I thout thear was a write up on hear that I used when i did mine.. it sed not to let it release & how it get it back on If it did IIRC
But i just spent 2 hrs tring to find it for you & had no luck
it may have ben on a difrent site.
maybe try a
Search for "camaro window regulator spring replasment" ?Or Hopefuly some one elce can chime in with the info... sorry
I had planed on taking more pics.. but ran in to prob as stated in my quote & never finished my doumentashon.
when i get to doing the outher side i will take more pics and work on puting to gether a windo thread with all the info & fixes relating to the job.Good luck!
George #4
08-05-2011, 08:13 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys. I'll probably go ahead and replace the regulators and motors with Dorman parts while my car is in the shop anyway. Hopefully that will solve the problem.
