Cluch won't fully disengage
#1
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Cluch won't fully disengage
Just bought 00 trans am guy told me new cluch was just installed. about 2 weeks of owning it my clutch peddle went from half way, to all the way to the floor to disengage. Could this be a slave cylinder problem? There is some fluid leaking out were my tranny meets the block. My fluid is also very dirty please help
#4
FormerVendor
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If there is fluid leaking out of the bellhousing then more than likely the slave failed. Problem is when this occurs it usually dumps fluid all over the clutch and ruins it in the process.
Whatever the case may be let me know and we'll get you taken care of. I've got all the misc. parts in stock to get you back on the road, and of course our Monster clutches will handle the duty of your ride.
Let us know!
Whatever the case may be let me know and we'll get you taken care of. I've got all the misc. parts in stock to get you back on the road, and of course our Monster clutches will handle the duty of your ride.
Let us know!
#7
FormerVendor
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Depends on the condition of everything, a stock master will get the job done as long as it's seals are good and it can be swapped without removing the tranny. Feel free to e-mail me pics of the clutch to determine it's shape andif its ruined from fluid contamination.
Last edited by SNLPerformance; 08-02-2011 at 12:15 PM.
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#10
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I pump my clutch then hold it to the floor and my buddie opens the bleeder, then he closes it and then I pump the pedle again, we repeated this process for an hour
#13
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The mity vac suppose to suck the air out the system I was told, I bought one n had no luck with it. I got better results with a air tight squeeze bottle to force the fluid down, when I did that I got instant results. But tell u the truth u have to find the best way for your car. Some people have success with different ways.
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I think I'm going to try the shim behind the slave first because if that is and aftermarket clutch It might need it and it's cheaper what sizes do they sell
#17
Without question, use a mighty-vac to bleed the system. It is far more effective at removing air than the "pump the pedal and crank the bleeder method." Also, you need to bleed from the bleeder valve and from the reservoir at the top too. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
#19
Internet Mechanic
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Yes, its a very good ideal and if you do, get a Tick. The more fluid that you can push is what helps these transmissions.
I am not a fan of using the M. Vac, just a good gravity bleed and maybe a extra set of hands works. I never "pump" the pedal repeatedly but consistant push, bleed, tighten, return, add fluid, repeat has allowed me some very good results.
I am not a fan of using the M. Vac, just a good gravity bleed and maybe a extra set of hands works. I never "pump" the pedal repeatedly but consistant push, bleed, tighten, return, add fluid, repeat has allowed me some very good results.