GTP LS1

I sent my valve covers to a company to have them powder coated. They called me and said that there is too much plastic on the covers and they would not be able to coat them.

What needs to be removed from the valve covers? I just removed them from the car and shipped them without removing anything.

2FAST4U

all the ruber comes right off very easy. But the power coater should know that. Had mine power coated no problem! And the oil pan,timing cover and bellhousing, Wanted the trans to but what is alot harder-next winter I will do that!

GTP LS1

Thanks for the reply.

I shipped them with the bolts still on and everything. They mentioned something about rubber behind the bolts or something like that? Sounded strange to me. Maybe I should call them back.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

Hell, I had my covers polished then chromed with no problem!

Of course, I had the center bolts removed from when I took off the covers (there are rubber grommets under the bolt heads that seal the bolts) and I also removed all the hoses and the filler neck, and lastly, there are (2) plastic baffles on the underside of the PS cover where each of the PCV nipples are welded to the cover - I simply pried them out carefully with a screwdriver and then replced when the covers were done.

You should have taken care of all this removal prior to sending them to the powdercoater - it's really not their job to strip the xtras off your parts but they could have used some common sense as far as the bolts go - take them out of the covers before coating and if you wanted the bolts PC's also - they should just remove the rubber grommets from the bolts 1st.

BTW, cost to polish and quadruple (usual is triple) chrome plate my covers was only $80 each - to buy these chromed outright from vendor costs in the neighborhood of $270

-Jay-

LawmanSS

iTrader: (19)

QUIK...care to share where you got your covers chromed for $80? Pretty Please...for a fellow Western Pennsylvanian! I was quoted $300 for the pair by Paul's Chrome in Evans City! Thanks!

Sonny

iTrader: (1)

talking about plastic baffles, just wonder if anybody has a spare one. I lost it in the powdercoating oven.

GTP LS1

Thanks for the help. I have contacted the shop and they are going to remove the plastic pieces. Can't wait to get them back.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

LawmanSS - No problem helping ya out! I replied to your PM with the info. He does VERY high quality work - I'm very picky with my TA & wouldn't accept anything that wasn't top notch.

BTW, he can also chrome plastic (shops that can do this are hard to find) I've had a few plastic parts done and he does an excellent job on that too!

-Jay-

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I did a set of 98's back in 2000 and loved them. I am looking for the pics. I had them done in red.

yellowbird

hell, I just bought mine outright brand new powder coated right from scott, over at jantzer;s does a hell-of-a-nice job.!!

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

I powdercoated mine. All the rubber pieces will press out. On the underside there are some plastic covers for the PCV system, those can be popped out too but BE CAREFUL! It is easy to crack the little tabs off.

I did mine 'Satin Black' and then I powdercoated the coil pack rack 'Almost Chrome'. Looks sleek and clean at the same time...no pocs though, sorry

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

Also, you should buy new valve cover gaskets. When you take them out they will expand and they are almost impossible to get back in. I spent an hour on mine...they grow when you remove them and will be about 5" too long when you come to put them back in...

Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

. . . . I've never had a problem - done at least 4-5 times now. You cannot "slide" your finger around the gasket . . you have "press" it in . . .

Steve1969LS1

iTrader: (1)

Actually the trick is to "compress" the gasket as you press it in .. in other words if you are installing clockwise then push the gasket counter-clockwise as you push it in.. this will eliminate all the slack by the time you get back to the end