DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Like a lot of people I have a frozen bolt in the rear slot of my drivers side front lower control arm. I have been spraying it with PB Blaster and pounding on the bolt for the past few days with a 5lb sledge and its not moving at all. Im about to cut it out, but I was wondering what is involved with replacing the bushing in the rear of the control arm. Also, is this the right replacement part

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...231284_0_5296_

Thanks for the help.

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

Yes, this is it, there is a Moog kit on amazon.com for like $23, k6490 moog, I'm about to perform this job on both sides and I'm curious if I need a hydraulic press to remove the old.

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

As tough as those things are in there I kind of figured I would need a press to get them out. Ive got the K member out with the arm attached to it. If I cant bang the bolt out with it off, Im just going to take it to a shop to have them press it out. Any idea what a shop would charge to just swap the bushings?

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I used my plasma cutter to cut the stuck bolts heads from the subframe and my shop press to remove and replace the old bushings with new ones. The pressing bit took an hour - maybe.

I did both bushings and the ball joint while I had the arms off and I suggest you do the same. Since I was already there, I replaced outer tie rods and upper bushings and ball joints too because I knew I would need an alignment anyway.

DropTopBird, since you have the entire K-member out, you could take a grinder to the bolt head and exposed shank and save yourself some money...

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Im going to hold off on replacing the ball joints and bushings that I dont have to because I will be buying new UMI gear for the rest of the front suspension soon. As for grinding the bolt head off, I didnt think that would work because the reason the bolts get stuck is they rust to the inside casing of the bushing. Unless youre talking about just cutting the bolt off so it be easily be pressed out

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

I'm doing all upper, lower bushings , ball joints - moog with prothane stablizer links and bushings and prothane boots for upper and lower balljoints. Might as well while I'm in there, I do not want to have to go back in there in 2 months.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I can dig that. I may replace the k-member and entire front suspension, but that is down the road.

I should have explained this better... As far as the bolt / bushing, it's a loss. Cut the head and threads off, take out the A-Arm and press the bushing out of the arm with the shank still in it and buy replacement bolts. You can use metric (factory) or standard hardware store bolts or you can do what I did and buy the right bolts with the funny tab from GM so you don't need two wrenches for your next alignment. I had the bolts before I did the surgery because I wasn't sure how long it would take to source them. Needless to say the new stuff went in with a good helping of grease to save future aggravation.

I can find my notes and post the part number for the bolts if anyone is interested.

My logic exactly, that is why I also did the brake upgrade at the same time.

rabbit320

iTrader: (11)

or heat up the bolt? i just did this for lca's on my eclipse, heat them up with a handheld propane torch for 2-3 minutes (dont have to be red hot) and melt some candle wax on the joint... it will get in the threads and loosen... then pound it out. it may be necessary to repeat the heating process, or get heavier sledge hammer, lol

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

What are the part numbers for the lower control arm bolts?

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

RE: Rabbit320, For me that method was already tried. All I actually achieved was knocking my alignment out and found myself unable to get it back. It's a flawed design but I won't even start that rant.

Ask and ye shall receive...
For those who can't see my pictures it's GM part # 10164163 or a (M14X2X86.5) with 10.9 hardness will work in it's place. Hope this helps.

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for the part number, I just bought these poly dust boots for tie rods ends, upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends for those who are interested:

Prothane 19-1712-BL for the tie rod ends


Prothane 19-1715-BL Black Ball Joint Boot Kit

brooknasty

iTrader: (1)

those control arm bushing bolts are horrible to remove. It took me a while to get the bolts out cutting, grinding and a BFH. get the bushings pressed out at a shop, it is worth it.

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Got the bolt out last night! I took the control arm off with the k member and that game me enough room to really swing at it. I am going to put it back on with the new k member just until I get the new UMI gear. I am going to put some marine grease on the bolt before I put it through the bushing so hopefully it will keep it from rusting before I get the new stuff.

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

This is definitely a 4 hour bolt. After spraying with pb blaster atleast 3 times, I used an air 1/2" impacter and kept tightinging it and loosening it up. I then pryed the locking portion off the bolt from the top to allow the bolt to spin and break free of the k member. After doing that it was still lodged in the bushing. I used pry bars, and a hammer until i managed to knock it even with the bottom of the k member. Using an 18mm box wrench or wratchet the bolt can then be broken free of the inner sleave of the bushing.

EnergyCC

Doing this procedure this week. Not looking forward to it after reading this thread. lol

hrcslam

They don't always stick. Hit it with some PB blaster everyday until you try to pull it out. The Bushing isn't that bad. The fastest, safest, and easiest way is to take it to a shop and have them do it with their special tools.

The fastest NOT safest way is to use a 10lb sledge and give it one good whack, pop's right out. However, if you hit it too soft it'll bend the A-Arm, too hard and it'll bend the A-Arm (it'll have to be really hard though). Don't try this with a 5lb sledge as it's not hard enough and will bend the A-Arm too.

Putting the new one in I use my C-Clamp bushing installation tool I got from harbor freight.

joeformula

iTrader: (11)

I just did this a couple nights ago and it was a bitch!

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Oh how I love my rust free car. All mine came right out a couple of years ago with no fuss whatsoever

Now getting those #(!@$*%!%@ ball joints pressed out and new ones in was another story...

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

No, get the Moog Problem Solver version -- MUCH better design:

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/548...asy-to-install

Watch the video:

celtsean

iTrader: (1)

Yes!! I just got mine ,haven't put them on yet. A little more cause you have to buy the set and the problem solver separate. But I think it'll be worth it when it's on and doesn't need replacement as quickly .