10 bolt full rebuild yourself?
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10 bolt full rebuild yourself?
Well my 10 bolt is howling and i havent popped the cover yet but myself and a tech at a tranny/diff shop are guessing carrier bearings. Obviously i dont want to dump tons of money into this rear and have a shop rebuild it, but if i can manage to put a $90 full bearing kit in it and have it work id rather do that than spend 3k on a 12 bolt lol. Just wondering if anyone has done a successful rebuild on their 10 bolt and how much of pain it was (specifically getting the old bearings out/off)
Last edited by cDorch; 08-24-2011 at 10:26 PM.
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yea thats my main concern..i dont want to be pounding bearings out all day with a punch. I was hoping someone would chime in with what bearing puller was best for the job and the easiest way to press them back on straight
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I usually grind a notch in the bearing race, after the cage is removed, and wack it a few times with a large chisel and hammer. Never had a problem doing this. Make sure you wear safety glasses. Find an auto parts store with a press and use the old outer races to press the new bearings on. After you get the carrier out, use a long pipe to go thru the housing to knock out the axle bearings.
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I have been unsuccessful trying to pull carrier bearings off these posi units so I remove the cage, rollers, slice the inner race carefully with a dremel, then whack the cut with a chisel to separate it. Not fun but it works.
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I use one of these in my press for the carrier bearings. I clip the cage off, install the bearing tool, and put the carrier in the press, but some pressure on the carrier, if it does not move I heat the bearing with an acetylene torch then it will press off.
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I just had my rear end rebuilt and swapped Richmond 3.73's in from 3.42's all in total of $518. My pinion gear had pushed out a bit and made a loud howling like going over a metal drawbridge, but since it wasn't found till after taking it apart.. why not upgrade? lol
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it went really well, just breaking in the gears now and they seem to be very quiet. Luckily my pattern and backlash came out perfect first try. I was however able to use my local shops press in order to remove/install the carrier and pinion bearings which made things a lot easier. Even with their press i still had to heat up the races quite a bit before they would even budge.
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Excellent, love to hear stories like this. I recommend home rebuilds of the ten bolts often because it's a great thing to learn and then you can swap all your buddy's gears out too. One rebuild will turn into 10 and you will be surprised at how good you have gotten.
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Start by using your original pinion shim. You need a 1" magnetic dial indicator ( I used a vice grip type from Harbor Freight) to measure backlash.
Pay a transmission, CV joint or gear shop to press on and off your carrier and pinion bearings unless you want to invest in a press. I paid a CV joing shop 15 bucks to press on and off the pinion bearing.
Google this. There are some very good sites out there with tons of pics to help you. Replace the pinion races. O'Reilys or Autozone will have the race installers to borrow to get them back in. Take your time and be clean! Without a pinion depth tool you must relay on your final pattern.
You may get lucky and get it right the first time or have it in and out a dozen
times. Be patient. Not a strong suit of mine.
Good luck.
http://www.keliente.com/gears1.htm
Pay a transmission, CV joint or gear shop to press on and off your carrier and pinion bearings unless you want to invest in a press. I paid a CV joing shop 15 bucks to press on and off the pinion bearing.
Google this. There are some very good sites out there with tons of pics to help you. Replace the pinion races. O'Reilys or Autozone will have the race installers to borrow to get them back in. Take your time and be clean! Without a pinion depth tool you must relay on your final pattern.
You may get lucky and get it right the first time or have it in and out a dozen
times. Be patient. Not a strong suit of mine.
Good luck.
http://www.keliente.com/gears1.htm
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Start by using your original pinion shim. You need a 1" magnetic dial indicator ( I used a vice grip type from Harbor Freight) to measure backlash.
Pay a transmission, CV joint or gear shop to press on and off your carrier and pinion bearings unless you want to invest in a press. I paid a CV joing shop 15 bucks to press on and off the pinion bearing.
Google this. There are some very good sites out there with tons of pics to help you. Replace the pinion races. O'Reilys or Autozone will have the race installers to borrow to get them back in. Take your time and be clean! Without a pinion depth tool you must relay on your final pattern.
You may get lucky and get it right the first time or have it in and out a dozen
times. Be patient. Not a strong suit of mine.
Good luck.
http://www.keliente.com/gears1.htm
Pay a transmission, CV joint or gear shop to press on and off your carrier and pinion bearings unless you want to invest in a press. I paid a CV joing shop 15 bucks to press on and off the pinion bearing.
Google this. There are some very good sites out there with tons of pics to help you. Replace the pinion races. O'Reilys or Autozone will have the race installers to borrow to get them back in. Take your time and be clean! Without a pinion depth tool you must relay on your final pattern.
You may get lucky and get it right the first time or have it in and out a dozen
times. Be patient. Not a strong suit of mine.
Good luck.
http://www.keliente.com/gears1.htm
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Buy a cheap press, you do not want to run to a shop each time you have to change pinion shims or whatever. Also, hog out your original big (inner) pinion shim (to make it slip fit) and use it while you dummy your patterns. Install the new one only after you are 100% on your shim selection and you are attempting final assembly.