Can't get it into third
#1
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Location: Houston
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Can't get it into third
I have a 02 WS6 M6. When I get on the car and go from first to second, no problem, but then when I try to go into third, it wont. I was told it was the slave cylinder so I changed it and cost me $500.00. The problem didnt stop. I was then told it was the master clutch cylinder, I bought a Tick Performance for $300.00 but have not installed yet. Is there anything else that could be causing this problem? I want to know how my car preforms but cant get all the way down the track at full horsepower.
#3
TECH Addict
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Although the problem may well be inside the transmission, the first item on the GM trouble shooting chart for shifting problems is clutch drag.
The simple test for clutch drag is to see if you can shift easily into any gear, including reverse, after sitting with the engine running and the clutch pedal undepressed for 30 seconds. If there is any resistance, you likely have clutch drag. In addition to the slave cylinder, which you have already replaced, and the master cylinder that you have, other causes of clutch drag include:
1. Pedal blocked from full travel.
2. Too much travel between pedal and clutch master cylinder or worn pedal bushings.
3. Clutch pedal mounting loose.
4. Linkage at pedal worn or damaged.
5. Air in clutch hydraulic system.
6. Damaged clutch assembly components. This includes damaged clutch disc, hub, splines, bent clutch disc, bent drive straps, broken or warped pressure plate.
7. Excessive side loading on the release bearing.
8. Faulty pilot bearing.
9. Transmission input shaft splines are worn or damaged.
10. Tight or contaminated clutch disc splines.
11. Flywheel housing, engine block to clutch housing, or transmission front case excessively misaligned.
12. Grease or oil contamination on the clutch disc facing.
13. Loose, broken, or faulty motor mounts.
The simple test for clutch drag is to see if you can shift easily into any gear, including reverse, after sitting with the engine running and the clutch pedal undepressed for 30 seconds. If there is any resistance, you likely have clutch drag. In addition to the slave cylinder, which you have already replaced, and the master cylinder that you have, other causes of clutch drag include:
1. Pedal blocked from full travel.
2. Too much travel between pedal and clutch master cylinder or worn pedal bushings.
3. Clutch pedal mounting loose.
4. Linkage at pedal worn or damaged.
5. Air in clutch hydraulic system.
6. Damaged clutch assembly components. This includes damaged clutch disc, hub, splines, bent clutch disc, bent drive straps, broken or warped pressure plate.
7. Excessive side loading on the release bearing.
8. Faulty pilot bearing.
9. Transmission input shaft splines are worn or damaged.
10. Tight or contaminated clutch disc splines.
11. Flywheel housing, engine block to clutch housing, or transmission front case excessively misaligned.
12. Grease or oil contamination on the clutch disc facing.
13. Loose, broken, or faulty motor mounts.
#5
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So when G-Force installed the new slave cylinder, they should have seen/checked for other problems inside my transmission? They charge $400 to remove trans. Im pissed because Im just wasting money if I have to pull the trans again.
#6
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (20)
Your smartest/cheapest bet at this point is to install our Master. Once correctly adjusted, it fixes multiple shifting issues commonly experienced in these cars.
Once our kit is correctly installed/adjusted, if the problem still exists, you have an internal transmission issue.
Once our kit is correctly installed/adjusted, if the problem still exists, you have an internal transmission issue.