SIKHS 5

I have a 1965 Chevelle in which in swapping a LQ4/4L80E combo, i could remove the AC compressor if needed. The swap will be using a LH8 pan kit along with the factory accessories.

I was planning on going with the BRP kit... in the process of saving up 500 for a motor mounts/crossmember :/

Is their any other adapter plate/conversion mount that is relatively low cost? i found alot of adjustable adapter plates that seem great... but im not looking to regret it all down the road if clearance problems come up.

also when it comes to the crossmember... any suggestions? right now i have a 350/700r4 combo that was put in by the previous owner. could i just drill two new holes on the frame where it mounts and just move it back so itll work with the 4l80e?

pm me in needed

thanks guys. my first car/first swap ever. got the old engine out, harnesses done, starting the firewall/frame prep and hopefully everything will be in soon

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Can you return/ sell that lh8 pan?
I think some people have used their xmember and done some cutting/ flipping/ welding on it to make it work. Have to beat the trans tunnel out quite a bit though, or at least some guy said he had to. Pretty sure v8tv had a video on youtube where they tried to put an 80 in their gto but it wouldn't go. Not sure what the resolution was.

oldgoat69

I agree, bag the LH8. I just completed a similar swap. I used all of the LQ brackets including AC. If you need pictures I can PM you. I used a Canton pan, Dougs headers and mounts. It all fits very well. I did need to modify the trans crossmember.

FatfreeGTO

I used my th400 crossmember that was in the car when installing ls/4l80e in my 66 gto. Crossmember got moved back a little bit but that was all. I used the chevelle cantilever frame stands and dougs adapter plates and energy suspension mounts for the engine mounts. Sounds like you are on a pretty tight budget so I would look into the 00-02 f-body manifolds instead of headers, others have used those with very minimal modifications to the collector adapter to clear the frame. Nothing a grinder and a cutoff wheel won't fix. Some GTO guys have used that pan and it works but it hangs way low, couple of inches below your crossmember, not a good thing but I suppose if you are always aware of it you could drive around that issue.

SIKHS 5

thanks guys! it helps a bunch.

im planning on going the camaro manifold method if thats easier(have some sitting at my house from my brothers car)

FatfreeGTO what oil pan did you end up using?

oldgoat69 how much did the oil pan run you? model? and how was the fit? thanks


are the doug's adapter plates part number 776-SK100?

FatfreeGTO

yes sk100 is the number and I used the Mast motorsports oil pan you might want to look into the holley pan its slightly cheaper and I saw one for sale on here recently for $350 it was the jzmotorworks pan same as holley

SIKHS 5

the way im looking at it, i can get the brp motormount/crossmember/lh8 combo all for $655 shipped... that includes the pick ups/dipstick/tube and shipping

if i go the holley/jz/mast past it will run me $400, adapter plate for $75, poly motor mounts for $75... totaling about $550... then on top of that their could still be fitment issues(a-body tie rod problems) and i would still need a 4l80e crossmember ($200) and another $40 for the tube/dipstick... almost $800 :/

i think ill have to go the brp route, never thought id say this... but the $500 motor mounts are actually starting to looked "cheap" lol

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Most everything you list turns up in the classifieds, but even if it didn't $145 more to get things that fit better would probably be worth it.

FatfreeGTO

There are a lot of variables that come up when trying to do this swap. There honestly isn't a one easy solution for the early A-body cars, just start looking at others builds to see what they did and read read read and then read some more. I've spent more time then I care to admit on the computer trying to figure all this out.

One thing to think about is that if you have a cast aluminum oil pan that hits the ground when you bottom out because its below your crossmember your towing bill is probably going to be the difference in $$ you are talking about. Its a risk I wouldn't take personally.

There really is no right or wrong way to get the job done here its all compromises really in one way or another.

SIKHS 5

66 with a LH8 BRP combo



maybe im crazy, but wouldnt just a frame saver on the k member(further back) save the oil pan?

like this :

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I wouldn't base a purchase on that first pic, the parralax is deceptive; just look at the shadows. Framesavers are a band aid last resort, are they not? Ive never seen anyone consciously plan on using them at the beginning of a build.

oldgoat69

I will look at my invoices for the price and part #. Here are pictures of the pan. I need all of the hood clearance I can get for the Magnacharger so I dropped the engine as far as possible. The tie rods do not hit. I used Energy Suspension mounts on the Dougs adapters. You will need to massage the LQ AC mount a bit, no big deal. I think I can get you a picture if you need it.