stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

gonna do a spring change soon and i like to know what im doing before hand.

so how have you guys gotten this bolt out when removing the drivers strut?

pewter2002

iTrader: (4)

Loosen the 2 nuts that secure the brake booster to the firewall- 13mm or 15mm (?) and GENTLY pull the brake reservoir away from the firewall and to the side (as req'd). Move it just enough to access these #50 Torx bolts. The rigid brake lines have some give but use common sense/care when "flexing" them out of the way...

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

thats what i figured needed to be done.


thanks

1BAD02WS6

iTrader: (-1)

Ohhhh the op said "strut".!!! Who's going to be the first Douch to correct him?




Sorry for the worthless post, that "it's a shock not a strut!" crap just bugs me

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

And swap the hex bolts on the passenger side for the torx bolts on the driver's side.

This will never be a problem again ...

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

huh? whatcha talkin about? so its a shock? not a strut? im just used to my 87 IROC and with that its a "strut"

so i guess you were the first "douch" to correct me....

1BAD02WS6

iTrader: (-1)

I know

1999Z28

You're going to pull the Master Cylinder away from the booster when you loosen the 2 15mm bolts...and yes 3rd gen's have struts. 4th gens have a coil over shock

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

its just hooked to a lever of some kind, right?


can it be moved just enough to remove the star bolt and not cause a problem?

Nastyc4

iTrader: (13)

Loose the booster and just pull it gently off the firewall and set it aside. Obviously be gentle and don't force anything but there's enough to set it aside to loosen the bolts.

Jersey Mike

iTrader: (9)

Just putting this here for others, as it's related & also covers this issue as well.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/Koni...all_688318.htm

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Also loosen the bolts on the brake module towards the front of the car and lift upwards out of the bracket, then you can move the unit as a whole -- COMPLETELY out of the way.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

ive seen that and to me ...no it does not cover the issue im asking about.

If you look at it he loosens the master cylinder but in no way enough to allow the socket to rise with the bolt once it starts coming out...then it just skips to both bolts out and he says he used a pair of vise grips....lol...ok??!...would have been nice to see.

anyone know how long those bolts are?

ChrisRZ28

You need to do this ^^^^ Once you have loosened the two nuts that hold the abs block, you can gently move the block, lines and reservoir over enough to get to the bolt.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

I wish that would work but I just bought some grade 8 7/16" bolts to replace them and they wouldn't fit. Even though the thread count is the same the width of the threads is just enough not to be able to thread into the hole.

Besides, you still need to move the master cylinder to get a 16mm socket in there.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

SAE into a metric thread rarely works. When the blind nut inside the upper mount breaks free, I have drilled it out and inserted a 7/16" G8 with a nylock on the mount.

A 16mm open/box slides underneath the MC.

Don't need to purchase anything. Use the Torx on the passenger side and the hex on the driver's side.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

you only have to remove the master cylinder nuts, then pull the master cylinder out an to the side. no need to do any extra. Just dont kink the lines. very simple.