bigbomber5

Hey everyone.
I have a 2 part post..

I picked up my 2002 TA a few weeks ago with 110,000 miles. The thing sounds/runs rock solid. No problems or leaks (knocks on wood haha). I would eventually like to put a new cam in it. Do you think it would be safe to go ahead and install one eventually?

Second part of this. If my car is still good to go on a cam, which one should I get? I'm a total noob when it comes to engine internals so I really need some help. The cam I'm looking for is one with a slight rumble. Nothing to drastic, maybe one step above a sleeper cam. I've heard of people swapping out to a C5 Z06 cam, is this what I'm looking for? What all would be involved in putting a cam like this into my car? My car already has aftermarket intake, headers, exhaust so that part should be taken car of, but what about other internals to go along with the cam?
Thanks for your input guys! I'm sorry, I'm sure there have been hundreds of people just like me asking these questions over and over, and you are tired of explaining this, but I can't find what I'm looking for when I search.

hartman

iTrader: (4)

Do you know the maintenance history at all? What kind of oil was used and how often? Also has anything ever been done internally to the motor?

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

Before you spend a lot of money I would run a compression test to be on the safe side.

I did heads/cam at 110k, now at about 198k. If possible I would suggest doing heads as well, that way you can put in new lifters while the heads are off. You will have all new valves, guides, seals, etc - basically a new valvetrain. Don't forget a new timing chain, oil pump & cam retainer plate (which includes a new gasket).

By your gear ratio I assume you have an auto so you will want a higher stall torque converter too.

z28241

iTrader: (13)

Clean looking car for those miles! You should dig around on this site and research...For some insight, one project can become another, since ur driving and auto, and want a bigger cam, then u may want to compliment it with a stall converter, would net u gains and almost be a necessity depending on how big of a cam u went with, also valve train upgrades such as better springs and correct pushrods..it goes on and on($$).
Figure out how much power u want to put down and go from there. The Dyno thread and drag racing results are good threads along with this thread to see what guys did and what they achieved or disappointments.

WS9 Formula

iTrader: (7)

All done at 136,000 miles.

G5X3 Cam on a 114, 7.4 Hardened Pushrods, LS6 Ported Oil Pump, Ford Red Top 36 lb Injectors, TCI 3600 Stall, 3:73 Motive Gears, BMR Trans Cooler, 160* Stat, Patriot Gold Duel Springs, LS6 Timing Chain, LS6 Intake

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

228r or TR230....and your gonna need a converter. A big one, go 3600-4k.

HTX

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. You should go ahead and replace the entire valve train. Also I wouldn't spin the motor too high if you want to be safe.

bigbomber5

Thanks for the info guys. Now I know what I need to do I can look into that a bit deeper.

As far as the cam goes, what would be the cam I'm looking for? A sleeper cam or one step above a sleeper cam (if that makes sense haha) is what I'm looking for.

streetrod2000

I put a 216/224 cam in with new springs at 100k, with a m6, longtubes, and pulley put down right at 360/360. Still have stock ls1 intake also. Has a small rumble and drives great, pulls good throughout the entire power band 2500-6000.

V68Sweep

If by sleeper you mean something that isn't too lopey, or much louder than what you have now, then I would suggest (and there are a number of things that determine sound like intake and exhaust duration) going with a cam with an LSA (Lobe Seperation Angle) of maybe 115? Anything lower like a 114 and beyond will start to get thumpy. That'll give you a little more grunt but probably not too hardcore (the 115 LSA I mean). I'm looking for a cam too and have recently been learning all of this stuff myself

Good luck!

cory32690

Go with a 224/224 cam full Valvetrain upgrade on like 114 lsa if u don't have ls6 intake do that atleast and if u can swing a stock set of 243 cam it will be very responsive with a mild stall good on gas with a good tune

bernarlitt

iTrader: (11)

I have a 228r 112, 7.4 PRs, 1218 springs, 2800 stall, and 373s installed with 117,000 on the clock

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Just a side note, but your PR's are too short. A 228r (XE-R 228 cam) takes a 7.450 pushrod on stock heads. Just a friendly FYI.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Are you sure on that?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

He has only installed a couple hundred LS cams

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

I know lol. I wonder how accurate it is though. I am going to measure anyways, but it would be nice if I could go ahead and order the right pr's the first time. Most people install 7.4's because that's what tsp recomends, but than pat g recomends 7.425's and damian says 7.450

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I would measure.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Oh I will measure. I just think it would be cool to get the right pr's so I don't have to stop in the middle of the process to order new ones....

bigbomber5

Thanks for all the info guys! It really helps
What brands should I look for/stay away from?

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Several vendors, including TSP, are guilty of recommending a 7.4 pushrod because it will "work". But just because it "works", doesn't mean it's right. That's not a dig at anybody FWIW, just the facts. A 7.4 pushrod is not the correct length, period.

The base circle of a 228r cam is .050 smaller than stock, which will create a situation that requires a .050 longer pushrod. I've installed 20-30 228r cams over the years, and all of them called for a 7.450 pushrod. All together I've probably installed 150 XE-R lobed cams. I'd say that I've got a pretty good feel for it by now.

That being said, almost all XE-R cams are going to be .040-.050 smaller at the base circle, rendering a stock length pushrod the incorrect length.

To answer the OP's question. With anything over 100K I usually recommend 1 of 2 things. Run a low lift cam that won't be too hard on the valve train, or pull the heads and install LS7 lifters. At 100K, the lifters life is almost over. It can be and has been done, but it's better to be safe than sorry.