Mightymike2000ss

iTrader: (4)

Trying to figure out what i want to do with my transmission. Car is a 6 speed right now but if i'm going to make big power (over 800rwhp) and track it, a automatic just makes sense. Leaning more towards a 4L80E now because i WILL interstate travel and don't feel like running a super low gear with a tall tire (like zombie was doing). So basically i'm curious about the guys running 4L80's. What company did you go with? How much did you pay? How much power are you running? What stall you running, etc. Car is a 402 aluminum block with a T6 GT91 going into it. Thanks for the help on this guys

ta02zx10r

iTrader: (19)

Give Jake a call at Jakes Performance. Really good guy to deal with. Very knowlegeable and has unbelievable prices. Plus he has his own trans brake and from what I've heard it is the best one on the market.

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

Not to highjack but I'm in the same boat so the info would help me out as well. I should be close to 800rwhp now and only going to go up....tired of the usual 6spd bullshit.

salemetro

iTrader: (5)

I'm running a "level5" 4l80e from FLT with a 3600 billet converter from Circle D. So far, so good...but I've not even really hammered into it yet....only have about 500 miles on the car, and a new rear end, rims and tires going on soon. If I had it to do over, I would at least investigate a 6l80e...although I'm not sure how big the 6l80e is compared to a 4l80e.

One thing I will say, is that you need to choose your rear-gear ratio carefully for what you intend to do with the car. 4.10 gears can get annoying fast on the highway with a 4-speed auto....something that t56 guys don't have to worry about. Since my 4:10 rear has developed issues, I'm building a new rear with 3:73s that should make it just about right for me.

Gilbert@Ace Racing

I have helped many, many guys with their decision over the years. In the long run a 4l80e just makes the most sesne. They are based on the TH400 which will handle 800 hp with just a handful of modifications in the right hands.

In the past, I have used John Spears harnesses, but they aren't needed as you may know. That in and of itself cuts some $300 out of the conversion. You'll need a good shifter, I have always used the B&M Pro Ratchet in my clients cars and have not had any complaints or concerns. I've always swapped pedals myself, so there is a bit of wiring to manage there. Also, I fabbed a tunnel plate out of .130" aluminum plate using the shifter boot plate as a template. And the I made a reinforced mounting plate out of 1/4" aluminum plate so that there will be zero issues with the shifter for years to come.

The driveshaft, flexplate, crossmember and floor tunnel will all need to be replaced or massaged. I always install a B&M Super Cooler with braided line and A/N fitting when i do these conversions. I've been doing them for nearly 6 years now, don't hesitate to give me a call if you guys would loke some advice or have detailed questions.

Indeed, a 4l80e is the best all around choice for anyone who wants to preserve overdrive in their street machine.

g

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I had the same guy who built mighty mouses 4l80e build mine since he also mildly built it with clutches and a mvb before.

Mine has a billet input shaft, billet output shaft, billet rollerized foward hub, straight cut gears, biggest thickest heaviest duty clutch pack made, 34 element sprag, jakes performance manual valve body with pro tree trans brake that I had my builder modify to use a vaccum pump that uses the motors vaccum to control line pressure to make it more of a street friendly set-up. I use a B&M quicksilver shifter with a b&m t handle **** with push button for my 2 step and transbrake. I also have a FTI billet 9.5" lock up 3800 stall convertor. I'm using the BMR tubular crossmember, and a steel driveshaft with 1350 u-joints and a TCI flexplate. Also using a B&M 28k tranny cooler with t-stat control and fan.

Mightymike2000ss

iTrader: (4)

how much are you guys usually paying for your 4l80s i just cant see paying 5k for a tranny thats crazy...

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

A T56 that is going to last over 800 rwhp is also going to cost the same. TR6060 is the only way to go with big power manuals.. not to mention you need a clutch that can handle the power too such as McCleod RXT $1200ish..

Do the 4l80e and don't look back..

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Stock 4L80E here

They're stupid strong from the factory. Upgrade if you want, IMHO its cheaper to just replace the damn thing IF you ever break it

And because I know its coming, no you dont have to get a 4L80E that was originally from a LSx truck. The older 90's SBC 4L80Es are just as strong. $200 for a trans that will survive 700tq for atleast a season? Yes please

Unstang

iTrader: (26)

If you want to go fast, you will put an 80 in it over a 6 speed.

You can spend as much as you want on one, there are some big dollar set ups available. I have one that is more budget minded & so far it kicks ***.

2001WS6Vert

Rossler w/brake, Yank SC3000, cost $6000+ for everything. Pricey, but I don't have stupid trans. issues anymore.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I paid 2500 for my transmission to be built the way I described above. That was after the 500 core refund. Then add 500 bucks for the jake's valve body with t brake, 899 for the converter, 200 something for the cooler, how ever much for the crossmember, driveshaft, and shifter. Also you will need a dipstick and stainless lines and an fittings for the cooler lines. It adds up really quick.

You can modify your T56 crossmember to make it work with the 80e, so you can save some money there, you can also run a 4l80e with jake's dual feed direct band upgrade, and shift kit and it should handle 400-500rwhp. Add clutches and good steels and I could see it taking 500-550rwhp all day long. Anything above that I'd go with a with some internal upgrades although there are others out there making 600rwhp or more with good clutches, shift kit, and good tranny coolers.

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

There are many guys doing 800+ wheel on the stock unit with the hd2 shift kit. When mine is together and running I will be one of those guys. Total with converter into my build is right around $1100.

Mightymike2000ss

iTrader: (4)

thanks for all the input guys..

jason how have you been man its been awhile, hope all is well...

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Really it's all about keeping the fluid cool. Keep the fluid cool and it will live. Now that doesn't mean it will take 1000rwhp reliably for years to come, but I can see a stock 80e with a good converter, cooler, jakes dual feed circuit and valve body living behind a 400-600rwhp reliably for a good while.

It will interesting to see how long that unit will last cam72aro as I smoked the foward band in mine with 600rwhp.

stock48

iTrader: (17)

X2. Stock 80E with HD-2 shift kit and HD sprag here. On it's 4th year of DD and racing just starting to get a little tired. Mid 9's at 145mph, 4860+LB 4x4. Prob blow up tomorrow now that In said something...

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

I will keep you updated and my build thread in the auto trans section as well. I am not saying it will last forever, but I have seen many survive at that power level stock. I have also seen many die at lower power levels.

amen brother. I like to see this with a stock unit.

Unstang

iTrader: (26)

Doing good up here. I hope everything is good for you!

gpr

iTrader: (6)

This might be a stupid question, but do you have to get a 4L80E out of a 2x4 truck? I'd imagine the transmission is setup differently when matted up to a transfer case.

123quattro

It's a straightforward conversion to take a 4x4 version and convert to rwd only.