wickedchicken

I just started on my 98 trans am that i bought a while back. The ls1 in it is shot (hydro lock) starter broke off when previous owner tried to start it. I also think i got some bent rods. My question is on a budget would it be better to get another ls1 of go with a 6.0. I think my crank and heads are fine so i could use them if i had to in another ls1. I would like to someday run mid to high 6s in the 1/8th mile with some boost or a little gas. My buddy has a 99 gmc step side that he swapped a 6.0 with a small cam, ported stock heads and a procherger p1sc(8psi). It puts close to 500 to the tires and pulls hard. Since i rode in it i been thinking 6.0 lol. Any input would be helpful. This is my first fbody and ive always had mustangs(2 85 GTs 2 89 lx 5.0s and a 97 cobra) but ive always been impressed with how well these cars run with little mods. Tell me what u think

TheGreat4.8

go with the iron block 6.0 and it will give you lots of room to grow as far as horsepower, iron block = more resilient to abuse but that is just my .02

NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

X2

Iron block is the way to go for boost. + TSP has the best Iron Block Prices that I've found to date.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Even though you are adding weight to the nose the larger cyl bore opens up tons of cyl head options and under FI conditions having an iron block does not hurt. IF I was recalling correctly, if you shop wisely you may get a LS2 for dirt cheap money too which gives you everything w/o any added weight.

wickedchicken

Thanks for the input guys. If im going to spend the money i want to build the right combo in the beginning. A 6.0 seems to be the way to go, what about heads and intake. Should i port the heads i got and use the stock ls1 intake? im gettin a SLP lid and lould mouth exhaust from a friends friend at a good deal.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Do not use the factory LS1 intake which was avalible on 1997-2000 LS1's you want one from a 2001+ as it makes far better power and is economical compared to a FAST 90/90, 92/92, or 102/102 setup.

The power potential is in the cyl head, cam, and compression set up so that is where the money needs to be spend and having the supporting mods are equally as important. Cubic Inches are only as efficent as you make it. The LM1 exhaust maybe waaaay too loud for you. Get some rides in cars with that exhaust and a cam or at least a bump in compression.

wickedchicken

Yeah the SLP exhaust is pretty loud. A fried of mine had a 01 ws6 that he bought for it. It sounds good to me. That car wa quick as hell to be stock. I had a 97 cobra at the time with a few bolt ons and all i could see is his tail lights lol.

wickedchicken

Where is the cheapest place for a stock 6.0 short block????

siggyfreud

iTrader: (1)

Not sure if the LS1 aluminum block is weak or something, but there are plenty of guys in the Stang world running 700+ ponies on an aluminum block. I have 500rwhp on my Stang on the stock aluminum block.

Iron will be cheaper, so if you're on a budget, go that route. But I wouldn't shy away from aluminum due to HP constraints.

wickedchicken

Anyone got a 6.0 short block they want to get rid of??

TheGreat4.8

no but i have a worn out 4.8 long block, hah

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Whne you start to exceed 3 hp per cubic inch, any block/motor will show it's short comings.

With these motors power is made based on RPM and these things need to be strung out to make big power. The more cubic inches are increased, it puts less stress on the engine and allows for greater survivability.

Most people having issues with big power tend to be due to lifting the heads ever before worrying about a cracked block or core shift.

wickedchicken

Been calling local salvage yards for past two days. I having trouble finding a good ls1 or LQ9. Maybe ill get lucky on a LQ9 short block.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Try here.

http://www.car-part.com

Seems to work well when looking for factory salvage stuff. I have been looking for a black leather gut for my HHR as I hate the light grey so its worth a shot. It will probably take some work but you should find something or just check here in the for sale section.

davidws6

iTrader: (36)

Get on ur local Craigslist.com and check for Parting Chevy's or GMC's where the 6.0 was used.

As for Aluminum strength, it all in the sleeve's. I went that route as I did not want to add 100 lbs to the front of my TA. Though more $ ...

Dans69LS1velle

Don't shy away from the Lq4 block. I found an '04 lq4 and it had the heavy duty floating rods in it and the only thing it needed was cam bearings. Just the comp ratio is a little higher on the lq9. Lq4 has a dish piston. I do have a '01 lq4 block and rods but the block needs all the necassary machine work.

wickedchicken

pmed ya

wickedchicken

What would it take for me to run mid to high 6s in the 8th. Punk around town has a 91 mustang coupe with a stock block 306 that put 317hp to the tires.He runs 730s to 740s in the 8th on slicks.His car has no ac,ps, stereo, bumpers, no back seat etc. He calls it a street car lol. I told him i would be able to drive to the track with the ac on and tunes jammin and tear his *** up with a stall and a couple of bolt ons, and 150 shot just in case, but he knows nothing bout that lol

1998Chv37s

You could do trex, heads, intake, and a shot. I think a cam like the torquer would be good for you, some milled l92s, ls6 and a plate should net some pretty good times. Youll need a rear end though if its a ten bolt. That plus a 200 shot you should easily run a a good number.