blackjack325

iTrader: (1)

I have a 97 Z28 Anniversary edition. Im looking into this suspension kit:

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ge-level-1--1/

With these wheels
http://www.oewheelsllc.com/Wheels_3/...h-Wheels-Black

or polished, still not 100% on which color.

275/40R17 front and 295/35R18 rear..

It doesnt say how low the car will end up with the kit, but is anyone familiar with it? Also, thinkin about upgrading the rear control arms too.

Anything to worry about with this set up?

Thanks

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

1.25 inches lower than stock. There should not be any tire clearance issues with these wheels since I know a car runing them with our springs right now.

blackjack325

iTrader: (1)

^ great... sponsor! you have this kit available? Same or better price?

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Kits that include non BMR products like this one with the Tokico shocks don't have much flexability. That's lower than I can get ya but feel free to use us for any tech support you may have in the future. I'm sure you'll love this package. It totally transforms the car!

blackjack325

iTrader: (1)

hey, thanks a lot!

so that package should be good with the set up tire/wheels i have in mind?

should sit nicely

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I do an SLP Bilstein/Strano spring/Strano hollow bar setup for just over $1100. It would not include LCA brackets because they aren't necessary because you are lowering a car. You might have a want or need for them at some point, but lowering does not make it a requirement. My Z28 never had them, and won multiple SCCA National Championships while lowered. But if you wanted to add brackets, we can. The total would be about the same as the kit you list, but with what I feel are better parts. Bilstein's are much better built than Tokico (which I also sell). My springs have been around for over 5 years, and I developed them specifically to do things I wanted--and then others tried to jump on board and copy them. My bars are both hollow and lighter than any bar set that has even a mix of one hollow and one solid bar. Also those were developed by me, to compliment the springs. And also have won numerous National championships.

And fitting your tires would not be an issue if the wheel offset isn't crazy. 275/40-17 is the stock size off a SS or WS6. 295/35-18 is a little wider and a little taller than that, but since 315's can fit with a little coaxing that should not be an issue. Having said that, you can't count on a suspension to make wheels and tires "fit". That's a function of the body vs. how the wheel and tire fits under it. Here's a link showing some cars on my springs: https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...ring-kits.html

blackjack325

iTrader: (1)

FRONT WHEEL SIZE: 17x9.5
FRONT WHEEL OFFSET: 54
REAR WHEEL SIZE: 18x10.5
REAR WHEEL OFFSET: 56

those are the specs...

the question was if the wheel/tire would fit after the car is lowered. and yes, sometimes when you lower a vehicle you have to get thinner/smaller tires.

Ive read that lowering springs require control arm relocation brackets and an adjustable panhard bar because it ends up making the diff shift toward the driver side giving tire clearance issues.

my car is a 97 with 85K miles.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Oh boy.... stock 17x9's were 50 offset. Add 1/2" and then offset them further in and that's tight. But they rear is the issue. 56 offset on a 10.5" is asking for issues. I ran my 11's at a 40 offset as that what I needed up front and then ran a little rear spacer too. Really something around 40 is right for an 11" wheel. Some run 50's and most have a little rub. You have a narrower wheel by 1/2", but also the offset is 1/4" further in. It'll be tight.

If you want to do your best to not rub then ideally you'd want a Watts link so the body truly moves up and down. A PHB pulls the body side to side vs. the axle as it moves up and down. When I changed from a PHB to a Watts, I was able to take 3/8" of spacer out of both rear wheels and not rub (and it rubbed slightly before with the PHB).

blackjack325

iTrader: (1)

so then it might rub? even after making the proper adjustments to the aftermarket PHB?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

It could.... Depends on how wide, really, the 295's you pick are (they all vary in actual width).

And you maybe don't realize that when you set a PHB to center the body, that's statically, sitting still. Because the PHB is a fixed length, and connected one end to the axle (a point at a fixed distance above the road) and the body (a point which moves up and down) that the body moves in an arc as it travels. My car, for instance, I had to set the PHB up so that it looked like it was "off"... the body pushed to the right so that it didn't rub when I was driving it. A Watts Link means you can truly square the body up and the body moves only up and down.

First one is a PHB in motion. Second is how a Watts link works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8cJCqWkfgk

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

The car I'm speaking of did not have any issues with tire rub and fitment with the exact setup you have listed, including the tire sizes.

The Tokicos are NOT adjustable (My mistake for thinking Koni. These aren't adjustable). We include the relocation brackets with our kit because not everyone just drives in parking lots around cones. There is a traction benefit if you ever choose to drag race the car or exhibit wheel hop on the street, which happens more often than not. It can help with straight line traction by providing more positive anti-squat and, best of all, you can reuse the factory location - which the brackets retain - for the street and bring them down to a lower setting at the track.

Give me a call directly and let me see what I can do for you on this kit with the BMR stuff. 813-986-9302.

blackjack325

iTrader: (1)

the car wont be my daily driver, and i want it mainly for street with some 1/4mi track days (of course)

ill be calling you up in a few hours ^

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Tokico has not, ever, made an adjustable front shock for the 1993-2002 Camaro/Firebird. And the ones you guys sell (I sell the same ones if folks want them), and the ones listed in the kit the OP put up are NOT adjustable. You can get rear Illumina's, but not fronts. See they adjust at the top of the shock rod, which is not accessible on a 4th gen car.

I guess you could choose to believe Tokico's website when you look up that car, and up pops a BB4001, which is a 1982-1992 F-body strut and completely different than the 93-02 front shocks. And just because it comes up that way doesn't mean it's correct (because it's not).

This is the kind of thing that separates those who sell parts from people who know the parts.

I'll add this. I didn't just drive around cones. The car was daily driven extensively. We use the setup on tracks too. I have customers that cut 1.7's without brackets. And finally, I could dump the clutch on unprepped (no VHT) concrete with Hoosier autocross tires (stiff sidewalls, not drag tires) and I'd get no wheelhop there..... or on the street on regular old street tires. Of course I also use good shocks, which matter since unsprung weight (the axle and all that being unsprung) is controlled by compression damping.

This is pretty indicative of how different folks don't see the world the same way. I'm happy to explain why I do what I do, and how I came to it.

Also if you want a more drag spec setup then you'd not want lowering springs, or a bigger front sway bar. I'd recommend you call both of us, ask questions and see what you think then. I'll tell you now, I'd need some idea of what you want from the car/what you want to change about how it acts to effectively recommend parts that will actually work for your goals.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for your order! I'm sure you'll love your new parts!

blackjack325

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Kevin, cant wait to see how it'll ride with all the new stuff!!

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

I have bridgestone potenza Re760 tires on my replica vette rims 265/40/17 295/35/18. I love em and have had them on wife the tires were new 2 years ago, close to 20k on em and they still feel great!! Definitely worth the $844. Also I'm lowered and running a 1/4" spacer in back, without it the right rear would rub and with it I never rub. Good luck on your set up

COSPEED

iTrader: (331)

69TA

iTrader: (263)

With that offset on the rears you are more than likely going to rub