WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

The seller of the 02 WS6 I will be buying from has lowering springs he wants to sell me with the car for 100 bucks (not installed). I have looked on the forums for about an hour now and I just find bits and pieces of info about lowering F-Bodys.

Im not sure on the drop of the springs yet I am waiting on an email response but I told him I didnt want anything more than 1.25". If I lower this car with these springs how much money am I going to approximately spend and what am I looking at doing to this car to keep the wheels from wearing uneven, yeah I know I need an alignment but do I need to purchase any other parts, ie: adjustable panhard rod. I want my camber to be as close as possible to 0.

Also, are there any other problems that may arise from lowering like in the future I plan on running true duals w/ longtubes and I am scarred this isnt an option when lowered. If someone could just lay this out on the table for me so I know what I am possibly getting myself into if I do lower the car.

Thanks in advance for the help.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Depending on the mileage on the car you're buying, and where/how it was previously used, you may have issues with removing the retaining nut from the top of the front shock absorber, as well as find some of the rubber parts up there worn out.

The rusted shock nut is a mixed blessing, as you might damage the shock beyond use when removing the nut, but it's not a big deal, as you should probably invest in a set of shocks more suited to lowered springs anyway...


Yes, as you already know, you'll need a front end alignment, and yes, an adjustable PHB would be highly recommended.

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

It has 90K miles and the pictures of under the hood look very clean, no signs of rust that I can see. But if I do this I will let all bolts soak in pb blaster overnight. I do plan on new shocks front and back, probably would go with bilstein. As for the shocks and PHR I want good quality but i dont need the best . How much am I looking at spending If I buy shocks all the way around and an adjustable PHR and what recommendations are out their for the combo?

Also as for the alignment as long as I stay 1.25'' and under then no kits should be needed to bring it back to 0 Camber, correct?

pjb

iTrader: (2)

If you are buying the car have him give you the springs for free. Where are your negotiating skills?? lol

that being said - even if the springs were free, if you don't know exactly what brand they are I wouldn't use them. Its worth the small cost to know exactly what you are using, and that what you are using will give you a known result. Its too much PIA to do it twice.

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

Well unfortunately I didnt even know he had lowering springs until we agreed on the final sale. And since everything is finalized with my bank theres no negotiating now. I'm waiting on him to email me the brand before I make any decisions.

Deviant LS1

iTrader: (4)

If you're going to lower it you're going to need shocks.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

"Oh yeah, now that you've purchased my car I just remembered all this stuff I'll sell to you!" haha

There are some variables involved with lowering these cars. It's a shame you can't just throw some springs in there and be good. Anyway, find out the brand/model springs they are and see how much they drop the car and read some opinions online about them. We encourage the use of an adjustable panhard bar because the rearend will shift to favor the left side the lower you go. If traction becomes a problem or if you're planning on drag racing in the future, there is also lower control arm relocation brackets. Then, the tops of the list, are shocks. The factory DeCarbons will not like the drop. Factory Bilsteins fare better, but it's just a good idea to buy a new set of shocks to accompany the springs. IMO they should always be purchased together.

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

Dont buy it fi you dont know the brand. More than 1.25'' with longtube will be a PITA to live with.

You need shocks, and get top shocks rubber insulator(the whole thing) at a junkyard in good shape; believe me, if yours are rusted like mine were, you will first need to cut your stock shock, second have a good chance of melting/damaging the insulator!!

Having the new top rubber parts will make the swap a breeze!! a 60$ well invested!!

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

Yeah if I am going to lower it I am going to wait and do it right. As long as I know all I will need are bilstein shocks and a panhard rod to do it right following an alignment is the worst of the worst then I will definitely look into lowering it in the future.

UMD_Jesse

iTrader: (6)

You will need:
-Lowering springs
-Shocks
-Panhard Bar
-Lower Control arms (Optional)
-May have to clearance the rear wheel wells depending on tires
-Expect to get the car re-aligned after the job

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

Okay so I the seller gave me the springs for free (pretty cool about it). But he told me wife they were BM Auto (or something like that) im guessing BMR but he said they were a 1.65'' drop. I only want a 1'' drop so I got a pair of SLP 1'' springs and once my wife sends me pictures and I find out more info on the 1.65"s I will try and sell them to make up for the SLP's.

I know i need bilstein shocks and I am currently looking for a set also an adjustable panhard rod(probably going with Stranos).

Now what about LCA's? Will I need to buy new LCA's (adjustable or non adjustable?) and will I need LCA relocation brackets. Or can I still receive stock settings with an alignment without having to have the LCA and relocation bracket?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

A 1" drop shouldn't take you beyond the range of adjustment on the front end, such you should be able to get the camber within spec. If you can't get enough adjustment to offset the negative camber change with lowering, you can carefully elongate the adjustment slots on the K-member, and you'll be OK.

Lowering the car doesn't affect anything in the rear, except the centering of the rear axle. Yes, the LCAs will change their angle as the chassis drops, but unless you're drag racing, it shouldn't be an issue. I do have the relocation brackets in my car, but I put them in years after I lowered the car...

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

Okay well I got my 1'' SLP Springs from a member on LS1 Tech.

Bought my SLP Bilsteins from WS6store and UMI Adjustable Pan-hard rod. And some other stuff (lol went all out couldnt help myself). D+S Rotors, Whisper Lid, LM1 Catback, SLP STB, few touch up decals and front Blackout Kit, total came out to 1300, but they gave me 100 bucks off for being military. Shipping was only 60 bucks so I really couldn't complain. Now to just install the suspension set up when I get back home in January... man this deployment needs to hurry up and end.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Obviously, that's a very difficult job you have, but from the bottom of my heart, THANKS for what you, and your fellow soldiers do...

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I would add some rear control arm relocation brackets to that list, especially if you plan on running at the track. That is if you dont want wheelhop.

MNBlade

iTrader: (20)

As far as the alignment goes, Maybe have the tech adjust the camber slightly to the neg on both sides, get slightly more caster, and toe it in a little. This will help with how drives and it wont "wonder" as much.
I would say for the specs:
-.2 camber each side.
4.5 to 5.0 caster each side
.05 Toe on each side.

Try to get each side to be the same.

I went to these specs after having the camber at .5 and a 0 toe, A lot better after the swith. But I do alignments everyday at my job so I get kinda uptight about it.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

hmmm....i had an alignment after installing my strano/bilstein package. I wasnt able to go to my regular alignment guy cause they were closed so i ended up going to Merchants tire cause they were open late night.

I have no idea what they set the alignment to ...they went with what the machine spec'd out for my year TA. I get 1 free re-alignment within 6 months so i will go back and tell them to put in this alignment.


so you say these are good specs to run with? compared to what the machine tells to put in......which im sure you know since you do alignments.

MNBlade

iTrader: (20)

Ya, the machine will say to set the camber to -.1 to .9. So they will probably put it at .5. The caster will say to go from 4.3 to 5.3, which is about right. For toe it says -.10 to .10. I always try and to a little toe in (possitive toe) because it will help eliminate any wondering at highway speeds.

Another thing, tell the mechanic or service writter to make sure the camber and caster are even side to side. For example, lot of times they will see that one side camber is .2 and the other side is .7, which technically is in spec, so they wont even touch it. But then the caster is say 4.3 and 4.8, which is also in spec, they will just set the toe and let it go. That kind of alignment may be in "spec" but it will cause a pull or the car the handle like crap.

Make sure you see the specs of the car before and after, your paying for an alignment for them to adjust it all, not just the toe so make sure its done right. I would say bring in a sheet with these specs written on it and tell them to make it this, and you want to see it.

Hope this helps.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

lol...will do man!>..thanks for the info!


I'll just print what you wrote and take it up there.

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

Okay, I finally got all my suspension stuff in the mail ready for me to throw on when I redeploy home.

But, I also plan on buying rear LCA's and a LCA lowering bracket. I am going to go ahead and get them and save myself on buying another alignment when i install them. I am just wondering should I buy adj. LCA's or just Regular replacement LCA's. The goal im looking for is enough of a set up for a DD but I want something to help out with hooking at the track for that once a month when I do go.

Also im looking at founders performance LCA arms and relo bracket. Decent brand, anyone having regrets from buying them?