Truck long tubes on a 68-72 GM A-Body?
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Truck long tubes on a 68-72 GM A-Body?
Has anyone tried using truck long tube headers on a 68-72 GM A-Body? I am working on putting a 5.3 into a 72 Chevelle wagon and would rather not have to pay an arm and leg for the swap headers out there.
It looks to me like the collectors on the truck headers point straight back, unlike the F-Body headers. Are they maybe too long(top to bottom - causing ground clearance issues) or cause any other obvious fitment problems?
It looks to me like the collectors on the truck headers point straight back, unlike the F-Body headers. Are they maybe too long(top to bottom - causing ground clearance issues) or cause any other obvious fitment problems?
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Just did a 360 view on the Summit site of the Pacesetter long tubes for ls trucks and noticed that the passenger side collector kicks upward. Do the F-body headers do the same? I know that one side points inward on them, but that should be easier to deal with.
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I will be trail fitting an LS1/ t56 into my 70 Elky soon and using a set of Pacesetter F-body headers. From my searching, passenger side fits fine, drivers side kicks out an slight angle. I'll report back and try get some good pics.
FYI, check out speed engineering for F-body headers...way cheaper than either Summit or Jegs.
http://speed-eng.com/store/pacesette...ce-p-3071.html
FYI, check out speed engineering for F-body headers...way cheaper than either Summit or Jegs.
http://speed-eng.com/store/pacesette...ce-p-3071.html
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I will be trail fitting an LS1/ t56 into my 70 Elky soon and using a set of Pacesetter F-body headers. From my searching, passenger side fits fine, drivers side kicks out an slight angle. I'll report back and try get some good pics.
FYI, check out speed engineering for F-body headers...way cheaper than either Summit or Jegs.
http://speed-eng.com/store/pacesette...ce-p-3071.html
FYI, check out speed engineering for F-body headers...way cheaper than either Summit or Jegs.
http://speed-eng.com/store/pacesette...ce-p-3071.html
#5
The pacesetters camaro headers dropped right in my 4th gen nova. ALso a guy bought them $200 ebay stainless full length headers and they only needed a ding on one tube to fit his 4th gen nova. I tried some truck headers on mine and they were now where near close to fitting. Not the same car but any info helps.
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I thought I would give an update on the header fit.
Pacesetter Long Tube (LT) F-body headers (p/n 72C2256) will fit but are very close in a couple spots.
I am using trans dapt 1" back offset mounts and energy suspension engine mounts. In addition, I moved the engine back about 1/2-3/4" more than the 1" - so 1-1/2 to 1-3/4" back. So new holes will be drilled into the crossmember for the engine frame plates.
The driver side header is close to steering column but clears (the header was resting on the cooler line in this pic, preventing it from pivoting down to the final position, so it was kicked up towards the steering column.
Drivers side very hit the oil cooler lines (that came with the engine). I removed the oil cooler adapter and the header is about 1/2 from the oil filter. Since I moved the engine backwards, I gained some clearance for the header tube bend around the crossmember. With the engine in normal position or lower, it might be very close.
Passenger side slipped right in but the #2 cylinder tube is almost touching the frame. I think you could gently persuade that tube to move inward without much deformation or try and push the entire header collect to the center.
The headers did not hang down far at all. Being my engine is slightly higher than stock, your results may vary.
The driver side does kick out and up slightly but if you have gotten this far, fabbing an exhaust to work with this should not be problem. I'll get better pics underneath later, I had some greasy cables in the way and I was trying to stay clean before going back into the house.
Pacesetter Long Tube (LT) F-body headers (p/n 72C2256) will fit but are very close in a couple spots.
I am using trans dapt 1" back offset mounts and energy suspension engine mounts. In addition, I moved the engine back about 1/2-3/4" more than the 1" - so 1-1/2 to 1-3/4" back. So new holes will be drilled into the crossmember for the engine frame plates.
The driver side header is close to steering column but clears (the header was resting on the cooler line in this pic, preventing it from pivoting down to the final position, so it was kicked up towards the steering column.
Drivers side very hit the oil cooler lines (that came with the engine). I removed the oil cooler adapter and the header is about 1/2 from the oil filter. Since I moved the engine backwards, I gained some clearance for the header tube bend around the crossmember. With the engine in normal position or lower, it might be very close.
Passenger side slipped right in but the #2 cylinder tube is almost touching the frame. I think you could gently persuade that tube to move inward without much deformation or try and push the entire header collect to the center.
The headers did not hang down far at all. Being my engine is slightly higher than stock, your results may vary.
The driver side does kick out and up slightly but if you have gotten this far, fabbing an exhaust to work with this should not be problem. I'll get better pics underneath later, I had some greasy cables in the way and I was trying to stay clean before going back into the house.
Last edited by enganeer; 10-12-2011 at 08:35 PM. Reason: typo
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Here are some better pics.
Clearance on driver side header to engine crossmember. I think if you lifted the engine up with some plates, you could gain the clearance to move it back to zero offset.
Passenger side header tube #2 clearance to frame.
Passenger side header clearance to engine crossmember.
Better pic of drivers side header exit from below.
From above.
Clearance on driver side header to engine crossmember. I think if you lifted the engine up with some plates, you could gain the clearance to move it back to zero offset.
Passenger side header tube #2 clearance to frame.
Passenger side header clearance to engine crossmember.
Better pic of drivers side header exit from below.
From above.
#11
2 quick questions- what oilpan are you using? because the side shot of the headers height is great, but need a reference to the motor height. also, were you able to slip the headers in without moving motor? thnx
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I am using a stock F-body oil pan. I'll get some measurements tonight. The combo of adapter plate and energy suspension mounts did raise the engine higher than if I would have used the mounts included in the adapter kit.
I slipped the headers in from above for both sides. The steering column was not there, so I don't know how difficult it would be if present. I also removed the plug wires from the coils to allow the header to pass by.
I'll write up a separate post so as not to hijack this one.
I slipped the headers in from above for both sides. The steering column was not there, so I don't know how difficult it would be if present. I also removed the plug wires from the coils to allow the header to pass by.
I'll write up a separate post so as not to hijack this one.
#15
The Fbody headers will fit with the stock style pans...they will NOT fit with an AUTOKRAFT pan as I have come to find out. I had them in my '69 442 build.
You can easily rectify the issue on the driver's side kickout.
These are for sale btw...good price if anyone is interested. Has Vbands welded on and I will include opposing side and clamp. $275 shipped. Never used.
Thanks!
Dave
You can easily rectify the issue on the driver's side kickout.
These are for sale btw...good price if anyone is interested. Has Vbands welded on and I will include opposing side and clamp. $275 shipped. Never used.
Thanks!
Dave
#16
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[QUOTE=BanditDave;15502581]
The problem with wrapping the headers is the they will rust up badly inside the wrap. I did the same thing years ago, and as I removed the wrapping, the headers were falling apart. Every time I ran the car they heated up than cool down when the car is off which makes them sweat. . Drive in the rain than park your car, the wrapping will be soaking wet slowly rusting them, sooner or later they will break up.
I never used that crap again.
The problem with wrapping the headers is the they will rust up badly inside the wrap. I did the same thing years ago, and as I removed the wrapping, the headers were falling apart. Every time I ran the car they heated up than cool down when the car is off which makes them sweat. . Drive in the rain than park your car, the wrapping will be soaking wet slowly rusting them, sooner or later they will break up.
I never used that crap again.
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The Fbody headers will fit with the stock style pans...they will NOT fit with an AUTOKRAFT pan as I have come to find out. I had them in my '69 442 build.
You can easily rectify the issue on the driver's side kickout.
These are for sale btw...good price if anyone is interested. Has Vbands welded on and I will include opposing side and clamp. $275 shipped. Never used.
Thanks!
Dave
You can easily rectify the issue on the driver's side kickout.
These are for sale btw...good price if anyone is interested. Has Vbands welded on and I will include opposing side and clamp. $275 shipped. Never used.
Thanks!
Dave
#18
The problem with wrapping the headers is the they will rust up badly inside the wrap. I did the same thing years ago, and as I removed the wrapping, the headers were falling apart. Every time I ran the car they heated up than cool down when the car is off which makes them sweat. . Drive in the rain than park your car, the wrapping will be soaking wet slowly rusting them, sooner or later they will break up.
I never used that crap again.
#19
I have some painted pacesetter f-body longtubes I had on my g-body for sale they have one tube reworked on the passenger side,no rust car never driven in the rain $175 plus ship would like to move them I need money to complete my turbo setup