stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

it just doesnt seem to matter which ever way I adjust my PHB ...either or ...1 side will always stick out further than the other side.


its so frustrating!!!!



anyone else?

runtwrestlin

iTrader: (3)

I have this problem a little bit. For me it's wayyyyy better than it was, so I just gave up and called it quits. I look forward to hearing an experts suggestion on how to measure to ensure both sides are equal.

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

what type of panhard bar u using?

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

its in my Sig

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

I would contact Spohn. I'm sure they would have the best info for you.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

build a "plum bob" (string with a socket ) tape it to the fender well in the center of wheel in rear, must have the weight on the tires to get a true measure from string to tire/center wheel, if need to rase to adjust PHB then lower, bounce car re measure
Johnny

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Yep, washer on a string taped to the rear quarter panel. Measure to a fixed spot like the rim edge. Adjust till both measurements are identical.

VinR1

iTrader: (17)

...with someone in the drivers seat or a 50lb bag of dog food over the gas tank

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

if you have 315s its gonna be tough. There is a very small window where it will line up perfectly, just a little nudge further in either direction will push it out to one side. If you have narrower tires you shouldnt be having nearly as hard a time.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

when i measure...its a 1/4 further on the passenger side....that means i really need to move it only 1/8 to the drivers side.

the 1/4 difference is so noticeable....to me atleast!

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Right, divide the difference.

ChrisRZ28

FWIW, and far from scientific....I put my fingers between the LCAs and the tires until I feel like I have the same distance, then I tighten everything up. I don't stress over an 1/16" or 1/8" difference side to side. Don't the stock axles have a little play in the stock housing anyway?

Snake_Skinner

iTrader: (12)

I know what you mean OP, I never did get mine adjusted to where I was happy with it. I never even thought of using a "plum bob" to help me get a measure, this is gonna save me HELLA time. I was all putting a piece of wood up to the fenderwell, leveling it out, and then measuring.

ECU_Pirate

iTrader: (5)

I spent probably 45min making little changes before I got it right. At that point I took a little black paint and marked the rod end/jam nut/phb on both sides so if it ever loosened I could find where I wanted things to be pretty easily.

runtwrestlin

iTrader: (3)

D'Oh... Good call, thanks for the advice. I'll use this method next time I get a chance to adjust it. The fraction of an inch difference is vivid to me, but everyone else I show it to goes "Meh..."


I think I'll be doing the same!

BayRunnerWS6

I'm doing this right now gf in the car for weight adjustment...Aannd the bag of dog food her by herself isn't quite accurate. Glad this thread is here thx for your inputs fellas

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

As a suggestion, I loosen the torque arm bolts to the rear end before making adjustments. My car is very finicky about how the rear suspension is loaded/tightened. It will cause all kinds of vibes when you lay into the gas and the rear squats. Once the adjustments are completed you can re-tighten the torque arm. This prevents binding.

UMI Tech

Hey guys.

PHB rod ends/Roto-Joints use 3/4-16 thread. Each turn yields 1/16" adjustment (1/32" each side per turn) give or take a bit for angle. It's been a long time since Trig class...

The plumb bob method is awesome as is the idea to put people and weight in there. Or half a tank of fuel.

For racing rod ends we use a similar paint method with one of those yellow paint pens.

One final thing, it's fantastic to have a perfectly centered rear suspension.

ramey