IRONFIST

So I'm changing the very last valve spring on my car when I hear pssshhhhhh... sure enough the valve dropped. But, not to worry, I have the engine pretty close to TDC.
Not close enough to TDC it seems. The valve hasn't dropped into the piston, it's still in the head, but it's too far in to get out with a pen magnet.
I try going thru the spark plug, but it's the intake valve on the very far passenger side, and the angle won't work for getting to the intake, only the exhaust.
So I pull the intake manifold, I can see the valve, it's right there. But I can't reach it with my fingers, how do I get it back up? I tried a coat hanger.. but that was pointless.
I'm pretty much ready to yank the dam head, but I thought I'd post on here first for any better ideas.
ideas??

Ronny_02_WS6

iTrader: (6)

Did you carefully rotate the harmonic balancer so the piston goes up and push it? Or it's not low enough?

ZeeOSix

Do you have a some long tipped needle nose pliers? If not, maybe go borrow or buy one.

Wrap some black electrical tape over the tips and see if you can grab the stem of the valve and push it back up into the head. Have someone ready to grab the stem when it comes out the valve guide on the spring side.

ZeeOSix

I don't think I'd try that until other avenues are tried. The valve angle could be such, and depending on how far down the valve is, could just put side load into the valve and jam it up even more.

IRONFIST

The valve is resting against the piston for sure, I haven't turned the balancer because I'm afraid that the piston might be on its way down... if that's the case the valve will fall in even further.

How can I check to see if the piston is on its way up or down?

IRONFIST

I'll go buy some of these right now and report back.

ZeeOSix

50/50 chance. All you could do is have someone carefully watch the valve to see if it lowers or raises as someone SLOWLY turns the crank.

Ronny_02_WS6

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, nevermind, maybe a thin magnet?

ZeeOSix

Yes, if he could find a magnet small enough to stick down the valve guide, then that would probably work too.

msydow

damn, that sucks...long needle nose pliers are the ticket i'm betting.
why the valve spring upgrade? are we gonna get a new cam first start vid?

Nick_R_23

Get a pencil flathead screwdriver (one small enough to stick down the valve guide, and long enough to hit the tip of the valve), and stick a magnet on the side of the screwdriver shaft. This should magnetize the tip enough to pull the valve back up.

jlrz28

iTrader: (7)

Or if you have a long nail handy make it magnetic.

IRONFIST

Well I got it back up, and tried to get the new springs on.. but no luck yet. I'm using the comp cams tool which works great, except for this last cylinder.
I can't see past it to see if the clips are in right, or if the spring is lined up right. I find myself using my camera to take pictures, and then look at the pictures to make sure everything is straight.
There isn't enough day light right now to finish the job, but I will try tomorrow.
Changing valve springs while the head is on the engine has to be the most frustrating thing I've done with my car. I think I'd rather have paid a shop to do it...

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

You'll get it just keep at it, you should be able to feel the second lock snap in. Get a good light so you can see it better.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

If your valve dropped that far you aren't doing the TDC method correctly. Be very careful in the future.

IRONFIST

Yah I got lucky.. everything worked out and the cars running.
Needs a tune though

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

I've found that when using air, the piston needs to be almost exactly on TDC or the pressure will spin the motor over...