Check oil beeping at me
11-11-2011, 08:43 PM
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Check oil beeping at me My engine was just rebuilt and my car eeps at me constantly saying check oil generally when i am at idle or braking. I check the oil and its fine and my mechanic did a manual test and he said my oil prossure was fine. Could it be a bad sensor? If so does anybody know where that sensor is. Sorry if i posted this in the wrong spot. Thank you for any help. Oh and its a 2004 pontiac gto thats mostly stock.
Last edited by kellytj1993; 11-11-2011 at 08:47 PM. Reason: Forgot to put the kind of car.
11-11-2011, 09:44 PM
#2
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if i were you i would run a gauge and do away with the light but it could be that if they broke the oem oil pressure switch when they did the rebuilt and didnt replace with oem from a dealer ive seen the aftermarket one that autozone and stores like that sell read low and cause the light to go off
11-11-2011, 10:17 PM
#3
My engine was just rebuilt and my car eeps at me constantly saying check oil generally when i am at idle or braking. I check the oil and its fine and my mechanic did a manual test and he said my oil prossure was fine. Could it be a bad sensor? If so does anybody know where that sensor is. Sorry if i posted this in the wrong spot. Thank you for any help. Oh and its a 2004 pontiac gto thats mostly stock.
What what the oil pressure at idle, hot?
Did the mechanic that told you the pressure was fine rebuild the engine?
The oil pressure sensor is located at the rear of the engine on the drivers side behind the intake manifold. Remove the connector and use a deep well socket (think it is like 27mm or so) and you can swap it out in about a minute with a new, lifetime warranty sensor from O'Reilly's for about $40. The one I purchased had sealant on the threads, so you don't need teflon tape or anything else.
FWIW, most of the time when the sensors fail, they fail high. When mine failed, it kept blinking the same message, and I hooked up HP Tuners...found that it was reporting 130+ PSI after I shut the car down.
I hope that's your problem, but an oil pressure problem immediately after a rebuild would have me shitting my pants.
11-11-2011, 10:20 PM
#4
if i were you i would run a gauge and do away with the light but it could be that if they broke the oem oil pressure switch when they did the rebuilt and didnt replace with oem from a dealer ive seen the aftermarket one that autozone and stores like that sell read low and cause the light to go off
11-11-2011, 11:47 PM
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Thank you guys, It only does it when the engine is warmed up. Yes it was the same mechanic and ya i about **** my pants when that started happening after a rebuild i brought it back to my mechanic immediantly and he manualy checked the pressure and said it was fine. I will buy a new sensor and replace it and let you guys know. Again, thanks alot. If there is low oil pressure its all under warranty by my mechanic and if anything happened it would be his fault so I would get a new engine anyway.
11-12-2011, 12:52 PM
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to be honest idk how to do away with the light but atleast if you had a gauge you would have the piece of mind that you could see what your oil pressure is at and not relying on a stupid light im going to do some research and see if you can do away with the light
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11-12-2011, 01:31 PM
#8
Yeah, they can fail, so buy a lifetime warranty one at O'Reilly's and be done with it.
11-13-2011, 01:05 PM
#13
Nice numbers and time slip...what are your mods?
11-13-2011, 02:06 PM
#14
He didn't say that mechanic actually had the gage on while the alarm was triggering. I'd ask if I were him.
My numbers are from my old LS1 AFR 205/90/90 setup sitting on a new LS2 427 block we put in this spring. Still have the LS1 top because I also have had oil pressure issues that we've been trying to solve since we did our initial break in. Mine also only occurs when the engine reaches a certain temp. I can drive for 2 hours fine as long as the coolant stays under 200 but once its over that my pressure drops down to 10. What we are doing now is tightening the mains, plugging the DOD passages and replacing the the barbell plunger. Previously we've looked at just about every part of the oiling system ... including tried several different oil pumps, valley covers, measure the lifters for being out or round, even heated the block itself to see if hairline fractures were opening at temp ... but have never found anything. My thought all along was that it was th emains being too loose so I should see in a few weeks. Hopefully the OP doesn't have to go through everything I have but he might ... that's why I'm pointing him to checking the o rings first.
11-13-2011, 02:58 PM
#15
He didn't say that mechanic actually had the gage on while the alarm was triggering. I'd ask if I were him.
My numbers are from my old LS1 AFR 205/90/90 setup sitting on a new LS2 427 block we put in this spring. Still have the LS1 top because I also have had oil pressure issues that we've been trying to solve since we did our initial break in. Mine also only occurs when the engine reaches a certain temp. I can drive for 2 hours fine as long as the coolant stays under 200 but once its over that my pressure drops down to 10. What we are doing now is tightening the mains, plugging the DOD passages and replacing the the barbell plunger. Previously we've looked at just about every part of the oiling system ... including tried several different oil pumps, valley covers, measure the lifters for being out or round, even heated the block itself to see if hairline fractures were opening at temp ... but have never found anything. My thought all along was that it was th emains being too loose so I should see in a few weeks. Hopefully the OP doesn't have to go through everything I have but he might ... that's why I'm pointing him to checking the o rings first.
My numbers are from my old LS1 AFR 205/90/90 setup sitting on a new LS2 427 block we put in this spring. Still have the LS1 top because I also have had oil pressure issues that we've been trying to solve since we did our initial break in. Mine also only occurs when the engine reaches a certain temp. I can drive for 2 hours fine as long as the coolant stays under 200 but once its over that my pressure drops down to 10. What we are doing now is tightening the mains, plugging the DOD passages and replacing the the barbell plunger. Previously we've looked at just about every part of the oiling system ... including tried several different oil pumps, valley covers, measure the lifters for being out or round, even heated the block itself to see if hairline fractures were opening at temp ... but have never found anything. My thought all along was that it was th emains being too loose so I should see in a few weeks. Hopefully the OP doesn't have to go through everything I have but he might ... that's why I'm pointing him to checking the o rings first.
Hey, OP...if you can, borrow a scan tool, predator, or HP Tuners from someone to see what the computer is seeing, it would help. If it is reading high, then you're probably looking at the switch. If not, then it is probably the o-ring, pump, or a problem with the build itself.
