99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

I am going to be installing a TR 224/224 .563/.563 114. My car is an automatic without bolt-ons. My mods are a lid, free mods, and 3.73s. I am, however, installing a 3500 stall converter at the same time. I also already have the Maney valvesprings with Ti retainers and a double roller timing chain.

Now don't hound me about doing the mods backwards...the reason I am installing it now is because I wanted a different cam, and after I pulled the cam I had, I decided to do the cam I would eventually be getting rather than wait until I have the other bolt-ons and have to take everything all apart again...I realize it should be headers and the other bolt-ons then the cam...I will be getting headers in the near future (Jet Hots).


So, here are my dumb questions...do I install the TR224 straight up..dot to dot? I see it has 4° of advance gound in...what does that mean exactly? (I assume all TR224s have 4° ground in...?)

Can you also tell me what will happen if I advance or retard the cam 2°...since I have the adjustable chain? What are the benefits, if any?

Lastly, how do you think the car will run? Personally, I think the 3500 stall will help it quite a bit....can I drive it for a season untuned?

Thanks a lot

MSURacing

iTrader: (1)

Mike,
What they mean by having 4 advance already in is that they have put the intake valve centerline at 110 degrees. This is going to help out the low and midrange power by giving you more "Effective Compression Ratio". This is why a cam is advanced is to take advantage of trapping effiecencies at lower RPMS. The trade off is going to be a little bit on the top end, but I think you are going to like it. Hope I answered your question, if not, call me. I am on weekend minutes. I will pm you my cell.

Mark

jrp

iTrader: (16)

mark is right. just install it dot to dot so its on the 110ICL. 6* advance it too much.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

Yes, I plan to install it stright up...err, dot to dot...

I am just curious what +/-2° would do...

How about its performance on my nearly stock car? Any input?

jrp

iTrader: (16)

advancing it an extra 2* will move the powerband down 200-300 rpm. retarding it 2* will move it up a 200-300rpm.

the stall will be the biggest improvement in your setup.

Blacker

iTrader: (3)

Wow, that cam looks familiar

piecesparts

I don't want to jump on your forum to hard but, I just purchased a 2000 LS-1 for a streetrod truck project that I am doing. I have no experience with the LS series, other than seeing the results of how they perform. I am looking at whether or not to put a cam such as you are in this motor while it is on the stand. The tranny is an automatic (4L60E) and the rear end is going to be 3:73 gears. I was considering an upgrade in the stall to 2500 or should I go further for the weight of the pickup. The truck is going to be street driven with a little attitude (I hope). I want to change out the intake and will have the computer modified to support the install into an older vehicle. How hard is it to install in an LS-1, I have done rebuilds on GM small blocks before?

cm02WS6

Cam installs are similar. Here is an excellent writeup:

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

piecesparts I suggest you start a new thread with your goals in mind, but I'll tell you you need a converter no matter what, but don't let people talk you into something over 3k unless you want to prioritize the drag strip.

99ssleeper, it makes sense what you're doing, actually a cam might be a better bang for the buck than bolt-ons. (!)

Regardless, as far as advance, I don't believe you'll end up putting it on under anything but straight up. Jrp has it normally one way or the other will increase tq and decrease topend, and the other way vice versa. I believe 4* on the TR224 makes it exhaust biased right (?), which favors high end power over low end tq. It's all relative.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

I will install it straight up. I ran out Engine Analyzer program...TR224+headers+dual exhaust with race mufflers = 391 hp and 382 lbft tq. If the engine makes that, I'd be tickled...

I am hoping to have it put in Friday...but my gasket kit from SDPC will be here Monday so it puts the cabash on hearing it run..oh well!

enginjoe

iTrader: (11)

Dot to dot. The adjustable chain sprocket will have a mark to show which notch you need to match up with the key on the crank. That is the stock position. I Put the two sprockets side by side to see that they matched. Your car should run ok without a tune, but it will die sometimes. Just drive like grampa with two feet.

Gary98Z

iTrader: (9)

You may be able to, but I doubt it. My car only has a 222/222 114 and w/o tuning, there is no way I'd be able to drive it (but then again that is a very subjective opinion). Even after the first tune, I had lots of surging, hard starts, etc. It was drivable, but kind of annoying. Once I got another tune, it was much much better.

Who knows though...each car seems to be different. One guy may only have minor problems w/o a tune, and the next guy has tons.

Good luck.

Gary