gpr

iTrader: (6)

I’m debating on forging an lq9 before I install it in a procharged setup, but I’m not sure what I will all need for the build. If you guys could recommend the parts I would likely need to change out as I’d like to get an idea on cost before I pull the trigger.

If I put in a blower cam, I need springs, and push rods. I’d assume in 2005 they were using the better ls7 lifters, would I need to replace them? Probably would replace the cam chain cause its cheap, but what about gears? I’d also put in valve seals. How much is a complete gasket kit for an ls1 engine? Never really found any complete rebuild gasket kits.

To install the forged rods and pistons, as long as cylinders are in spec I can just get replacement wisecos, and k1 rods. Then would need to hone the cylinders and get rod bearings, anything else I need to do with those? Will the oil pump be okay or should it also be replaced?

I know it all really depends on the condition of the engine when I get it, however I’m getting an lq9 for the same price as the cheapest lq4 I could find. I am on a budget like everyone and want something that will hold up but as cheap as possible. Would a 2005 lq9 hold 600rwhp (this is my goal) as I only plan on spinning it to 6200 – 6500 rpms. Not forging it would save me a lot of time and money, but I will do the rebuild myself.

5 Liter Eater

iTrader: (5)

I asked about cross hatching a good 4.000 cylinder and pretty much everyone said to go .005 over to ensure the bore is round. I ended up getting a good deal on .030 over pistons so it made the point moot but I think I would have tried it without a .005 torque plate hone. Your piston choices are more limited at 4.000" though.

The crank will need to be re-balanced to the new weight of the pistons and rods.

Oil pump and timing set could of course work but begs the question, do you want to have to go back into the motor because you saved a few hundred skimping on these? Up to you. Lifters most people end up re-using because they don't see much wear being rollers.

If 600 is the end goal then I'm not sure I'd spend the money on forged internals if I had a good running stock shortblock.

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

If your gonna do all that work you should go for more power.

mr slow

I agree, a properly built lq9 (right heads, cam, exhaust, ect..) should make around 500 n/a. If you were to forge it with the iron block, you could crank the boost up and really make some power.

RezinTexas

Building it yourself will not save any money after you buy all the proper tools and instrumentation.

Here is my cost breakdown on my rotating assembly:

Wiseco pistons with rings: $740
K1 4" Crank: $860
K1 6.125" Rods: $500
Balancing: $225
Bearings (Mains & Rods): $190

Add to this any machining costs (cylinder honing, main honing, deck surfacing, etc), fastener costs (ARP $$$), gaskets, extras (oil pump, chain, etc.).

It adds up quick!

mark21742

Plus $500 for your tune, -+$50 for each head gasket, then $200 for all the other gaskets.

Rings
Main bearings
Rod bearings

Or you can also get just the fully balanced rotating assembly as a kit.

gpr

iTrader: (6)

I already have all the tools and equipment to build the engine myself. I would have to pay someone to do all the machine work, and got quotes on that. Is it neccessary to replace cam bearings and freeze plugs??? Machine shop said they would do that but i dont' see why it would be needed.. Also i can get wiseco pistons, k1 rods and crank at dealer cost.

I have spent a lot on the procharger kit, the lq9 and 4l80e already (and i'm not done yet). Forging it sounds simple, but when you add in all the little stuff like cam chain, lifters, push rods, spings, cam, bearings, oil pump, gaskets. Itf adds up fast.

i made a spread sheet breaking down the parts and cost i would need for different senarios. I'm guessing a 408 setup would cost around $4200 for parts and machine work. And that is with reusing the stock heads. Installing pistons and rods and bigger cam etc.. would be around $3955. Simply installing a cam, spirngs, push rods and arp rod bolts is around $1850! Not sure if i'm adding in to may parts that's why i was asking a break down of what would need to be replaced.

5 Liter Eater

iTrader: (5)

Yea I was pretty shocked when I started specing out my LQ 408. I got a great deal on the block and rotating asssembly but the machine work, bearings, rings, head gaskets and those solid gold ARP main and head studs! Fek!

gpr

iTrader: (6)

yep thats what i'm finding out!

Also i'm only running a d1sc and i live at 4500ft elevation. From what i have read those lq9's are pretty stout. I'm guessing at my elevation since i won't make as much boost and even at that am about 20% lower power, that the stock lq9 will likely hold all the power i can produce....

mark21742

Yup, same here, I'm up close to $10,000 in my 408

5 Liter Eater

iTrader: (5)

I'm still doing OK. I think I'm still well under what an HKE 40x iron block is but I'm not done...

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Yea the cheapest way to go is to get a lot eh vital parts new with bigger parts like quality used cams and heads off people on here an you can do it on a budget

DMM

FWIW I got 487 whp with a maggied LS6 with stock cam and lightly modded stock 243's (bowl work and light exhaust porting). I wouldn't worry about going forged just yet, I would get everything together and dialed in before thinking about going forged. I honestly think you will be near your goal on stock cubes, although I would go with Katech rod bolts.

The tune will be where this comes together, put most of your hard earned money towards this (preferably from a vendor here, lots of hacks out there) and you will be rewarded with the power you are looking for while maintaining drivability and reliability. Are you already planning on running a 2 BAR custom OS?

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

I agree...save your money instead of going forged unless you plan on feeding it some funny gas or blowing it...