High Mileage LS1's
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High Mileage LS1's
Sorry if this has been asked before:
I would like to know what parts have broken down and at what mileage? It would be nice to start a database collecting details of these cars. Just a thought.
I would like to purchase another LS1 and just wanted to know what may happen at different mileage.
Thanks,
Ron
I would like to know what parts have broken down and at what mileage? It would be nice to start a database collecting details of these cars. Just a thought.
I would like to purchase another LS1 and just wanted to know what may happen at different mileage.
Thanks,
Ron
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Cat at 40k, with o2's...(MOD TIME!!!)
Pinoin seal (always)..lol
thats it for me so far! Not that 40k is high!
Pinoin seal (always)..lol
thats it for me so far! Not that 40k is high!
Last edited by VoodooWS6; 03-18-2004 at 11:25 AM.
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i think it depends on how the car was driven.....i specifically looked for a car that was owned by an older guy and passed up on some mildly modified ones that were owned by guys 25-35 who were asking the same price or less.
0-30k old woman driving
30-40k old guy driving (60 and on disability)
40-62k semi-old guy driving (me) 70% hwy
'98 A4 convert, almost stock (lid, ssra) and too slow to race anybody.
61k waterpump gasket (paper for '98) went bad and leaked. waterpump ok.
rearend leaks a little, known problem for '98
pulley whine on cold startups, esp. after rain (known prob for '98)
0-30k old woman driving
30-40k old guy driving (60 and on disability)
40-62k semi-old guy driving (me) 70% hwy
'98 A4 convert, almost stock (lid, ssra) and too slow to race anybody.
61k waterpump gasket (paper for '98) went bad and leaked. waterpump ok.
rearend leaks a little, known problem for '98
pulley whine on cold startups, esp. after rain (known prob for '98)
#7
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Previous owner replaced A/C compressor at 10K or so.
Other than that, it''s been good to 21K.
However, I think my right front rotor is warped. Gotta bring it on soon for that. But I honestly don't drive it that hard. Ripping through the gears once in a while is not 'hard'. I don't believe that car has ever been to the track. That might change this summer
Other than that, it''s been good to 21K.
However, I think my right front rotor is warped. Gotta bring it on soon for that. But I honestly don't drive it that hard. Ripping through the gears once in a while is not 'hard'. I don't believe that car has ever been to the track. That might change this summer
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#8
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yeah first ls1 13K miles smoked on startup - ran!!!
2nd ls1 66K miles - babied from day 1 by accountant, all records in order, carfax clean, even kept every oil change (jiffy lube stylee) since day one those clear labels that attach to the window and the ones for the tire place (rotate/balance) stickers. Super-**** record keeping sold me on the car. Plus it was a 2.73 A4, theres not a whole lot you can do to beat up a 2.73 A4. probably never saw a race (drag) in its life.
Thats the kinda car you want to get. One that was never raced but taken care of like most people do (good PM). Put the mods on her, she's rocking out.
I'm guessing the pewter Z28 i saw with 13K was a nitrous repo/lease return. I mean at 70K miles now (bought at 66) i dont get any oil burn or anything ever. It's been like 3 months now and i think i'm down 1/3 qt even after a night of drag racing. werd.
no piston slap. knock on wood.
The way i see it, i have higher mileage, but i put on 4-5 miles per weekday. So eventually ya'll will catch up with me
Happy hunting, whatever you do don't buy from a dealer, and don't make rash decisions. Don't buy a modded car unless its from the mechanic you'd let tear down your car if needed. It's a true buyers market right now, so these cars are selling way below the insurance write off amount these days, in flawless shape.
werd
2nd ls1 66K miles - babied from day 1 by accountant, all records in order, carfax clean, even kept every oil change (jiffy lube stylee) since day one those clear labels that attach to the window and the ones for the tire place (rotate/balance) stickers. Super-**** record keeping sold me on the car. Plus it was a 2.73 A4, theres not a whole lot you can do to beat up a 2.73 A4. probably never saw a race (drag) in its life.
Thats the kinda car you want to get. One that was never raced but taken care of like most people do (good PM). Put the mods on her, she's rocking out.
I'm guessing the pewter Z28 i saw with 13K was a nitrous repo/lease return. I mean at 70K miles now (bought at 66) i dont get any oil burn or anything ever. It's been like 3 months now and i think i'm down 1/3 qt even after a night of drag racing. werd.
no piston slap. knock on wood.
The way i see it, i have higher mileage, but i put on 4-5 miles per weekday. So eventually ya'll will catch up with me
Happy hunting, whatever you do don't buy from a dealer, and don't make rash decisions. Don't buy a modded car unless its from the mechanic you'd let tear down your car if needed. It's a true buyers market right now, so these cars are selling way below the insurance write off amount these days, in flawless shape.
werd
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who's going to pay for tearing the car down? doing a heads/cam job is at least $1000 in labor. tearing the motor apart to inspect for excessive wear/tear is going to cost even more....might as well rebuild it at that point instead of putting stock parts back on.
paying a shop for a visual inspection would probably be the norm....maybe even a leakdown test and/or compression test....or spend $75 to dyno it to see if it's making the power.
before i bought my car, i made the guy take it to an F-Body enthusiast shop for a $25 visual inspection.....these guys knew what to look for and said that the rear seal was weaping a little and the pulley tensioner squeaks....all common in the '98 ....and that the car is in good shape....then i made him go through MD inspection (prob the toughest in the country)...
paying a shop for a visual inspection would probably be the norm....maybe even a leakdown test and/or compression test....or spend $75 to dyno it to see if it's making the power.
before i bought my car, i made the guy take it to an F-Body enthusiast shop for a $25 visual inspection.....these guys knew what to look for and said that the rear seal was weaping a little and the pulley tensioner squeaks....all common in the '98 ....and that the car is in good shape....then i made him go through MD inspection (prob the toughest in the country)...
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both gm and efilive pro have a nifty feature called cylinder balance test. They can see whats going on without cracking the motor. I was making the point of not buying a modded/raced car from anyone but a mechanic that you trust.
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Originally Posted by samz28
both gm and efilive pro have a nifty feature called cylinder balance test. They can see whats going on without cracking the motor. I was making the point of not buying a modded/raced car from anyone but a mechanic that you trust.
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#15
The things that keep needing replacement on my 2001 SS with over 110,000 miles are:
Fuel every 320 miles
Oil every 3000 miles
Filter every 3000 miles
Tires every 45,000 miles
brake pads every 30,000-40,000 miles
etc ...
nothing has broken/failed on my car that shouldn't, only normal wear items or drag race abused (like my torsen diff and trans). Mine is really an OEM stock LS1, still has many items installed from the factory.
Fuel every 320 miles
Oil every 3000 miles
Filter every 3000 miles
Tires every 45,000 miles
brake pads every 30,000-40,000 miles
etc ...
nothing has broken/failed on my car that shouldn't, only normal wear items or drag race abused (like my torsen diff and trans). Mine is really an OEM stock LS1, still has many items installed from the factory.
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cats@ 85k to high-flows, need to replace window motor, replaced ignition@80k,All rotors replaced@70k. She's been pretty good to me, I never abuse her. I've equipped her to rock though! I'll never run her, plan to keep her for a long time .
#18
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40 miles -> Passenger side visor (warrantee)
29,000 -> Differential (side bearings, carrier, ring, pinion) too much auto crossing, off warrantee
31,000 -> Clutch, slave, pilot
29,000 -> Differential (side bearings, carrier, ring, pinion) too much auto crossing, off warrantee
31,000 -> Clutch, slave, pilot
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Battery died at 30k. When I went to replace it, the retainer bolt sheared off. Both battery and bolt replaced under warranty.
Water pump died at 50k. Replaced by dealer for $700+, which is when I decided it was time to learn to work on it myself.
Oil consumption started going up at around 65k. Monitoring this closely now at 73k.
-Mike
Water pump died at 50k. Replaced by dealer for $700+, which is when I decided it was time to learn to work on it myself.
Oil consumption started going up at around 65k. Monitoring this closely now at 73k.
-Mike