Gen 5 Camaro Internal Engine Tech - Help Please 2010 Camaro

I am new to the world of working on cars I was wondering if someone could help me. I installed Borla Atak Aggressive Cat-Back Exhaust System. and K&N Cold Air intake. The car was not as loud or as powerful as I wanted it to be so I ordered JBA Mid-Pipe for 2010 CAMARO WO/CATS, Then one of my friends told me to get new cam, and valve springs. So I ordered MTI Racing Stage 3 LS3 Camshaft :: 2010-2012 Camaro SS, and Livernois Motorsports LS-Series Dual Valve Springs.

My question is with the new cam and valve springs do I need to change the Push Rods and the Timing Chain? If so can anyone please tell me which pushrods and timing chain would be good.

Thank You
Kevin

The timming chain could be resused if you have low miles, pushrods need to be checked for lenght and should be replaced with a cam that agressive. Talk to the vendor that sold the cam to you about the pushrods.

That big ass cam is gonna be choked up without long tube headers... I would at lest get some budget headers if you dont have much cash. Personally I think you went to big with the cam, do your home work before you spend a bunch of money and have a slow car! That cam will run strong on the top end, but you need headers and a tune to go with it.

I had the borla XR-1 long tube headers in mind I have them in my shopping cart haven't checked out yet. Would those be good enough?

Ok so I purchased the Mti stage 3 racing cam, stainless power 1-7/8 long tube headers w/o cats, livernois dual valve spring patriot 8401 kit and GM 3 bolt cam sprocket. Talked to phastek performance and that's everything they said I need for everything to be good.

Ok so I purchased the Mti stage 3 racing cam, stainless power 1-7/8 long tube headers w/o cats, livernois dual valve spring patriot 8401 kit and GM 3 bolt cam sprocket. Talked to phastek performance and that's everything they said I need for everything to be good.

Yep that should do it parts wise. Do you have someone to dyno tune it? You will need a tune with that cam for the car to run right.

Yea I have a shop here in NC that is gonna install the parts and do the tune for me.

Sounds good man, good luck... it should be a beast!

a little advise, do your research before you start buying parts. Make a plan with a budget and talk to a couple of different shops about your plan and then buy your parts.

Next comes suspension mods and drag radials.

Good luck.

Good luck! Should be a great car. As mentioned above, you will need some suspension work to help get that power to the ground especially on a stick car. Wheel hop is not your friend and these cars are prone to breaking parts with wheel hop.

Thanks everyone for your inputs. So with wheel hop I was researching and came across some ideas if I got a swaybar kit with bushings front (sb016) and rear (sb017) and a lowering spring kit set of 4 1.4" front and 1" rear. I was wondering if anyone new how much that would help out with wheel hop and If that would be good enough when I got a supercharger for my car.

Was also looking into getting hotchkis 20104 chassis max brace and front and back strut bars.

I also see BMR performance has level 1,2 and 3 handling performance packages not sure If it would be better to go with one of those or go with the parts I was looking at in the earlier post.

didn't MTI go outta business a few yrs ago? is there a new MTI? what r the specs on that cam? it may not work with a SC down the road...

Camshaft specs 231/243 .617/.624

what LSA? u need at least a 114 to work well with a SC'er...

Thanks everyone for your inputs. So with wheel hop I was researching and came across some ideas if I got a swaybar kit with bushings front (sb016) and rear (sb017) and a lowering spring kit set of 4 1.4" front and 1" rear. I was wondering if anyone new how much that would help out with wheel hop and If that would be good enough when I got a supercharger for my car.


If your getting wheel hop you need a set of trailing arms.

BMR is the best bang for the buck suspension company out there.

A set will run you $150 for plastic bushings and $250 for arms with bearings.

The lsa is 115 +2 and for wheel hop I purchased a PFADT stage 3 performance kit, Pfadt sway bar end links, and comp cans gm ls series retrofit trunnion kit.

Sounds good man. Now get some dyno numbers and track times.

That max brace is a good idea, that will stiffen the hole car up. Keep us updated on the numbers, mine is gong on the dyno next week.

My car is at rpm Motorsports in Garner, NC getting my camshaft, suspension, headers, cam sprocket, valve springs, push Rods, and Procharger installed and tuned and dyno will get my car back on Friday morning can't wait.

Dang.

You are getting all done at once huh? Good luck and enjoy the car.

Yea man I figure while I still have my money I made while in Afghanistan get it all done now b4 I spend it on stupid stuff and not have it for my car.

I remember many moons ago coming home with a wad of combat pay burning a hole in my pocket. Enjoy it man.

RPM just called the camaro is going on the dyno later on today will post some numbers later :-)

RPM just called the camaro is going on the dyno later on today will post some numbers later :-)

I'm going to guess 600+.

How much boost? Any meth?

The last pull was 725rwhp and 610rwtq with 9lbs of boost no meth yet. The guys at rpm said I can get higher but I have stock bottom end and they don't want anything to happen.

The last pull was 725rwhp and 610rwtq with 9lbs of boost no meth yet. The guys at rpm said I can get higher but I have stock bottom end and they don't want anything to happen.

That thing will be a blast to drive! Now you will need to own stock in a tire company.

The last pull was 725rwhp and 610rwtq with 9lbs of boost no meth yet. The guys at rpm said I can get higher but I have stock bottom end and they don't want anything to happen.

I've NEVER seen a 5th gen make that kind of power on a 9psi pro charger setup especially with no meth. I find it almost hard to believe

We had a Dyno day not long ago with over 10 5th gens all with chargers either Maggie, whipple, or pro charger. None made over 660rwhp without meth

I got the dyno print out is there a way to put it on this forum

I got the dyno print out is there a way to put it on this forum

Use the go advanced button to reply to the thread. there is an insert image Icon on the menu bar above the text field.

I've NEVER seen a 5th gen make that kind of power on a 9psi pro charger setup especially with no meth. I find it almost hard to believe

We had a Dyno day not long ago with over 10 5th gens all with chargers either Maggie, whipple, or pro charger. None made over 660rwhp without meth

heres the dyno sheet

That sure looks like 725 horse to me on that Dyno sheet.

That sure looks like 725 horse to me on that Dyno sheet.

Yea it is lol had no reason to lie about it haha.

hp is still climbing..

Not stopping till I'm over 1000 :)

hp is still climbing..

yeah, with that big cam, its still making power... notice the tq didn't drop off, so the hp would keep going up if u took it to 7K...

You've got a long way to go and a lot of changes to make to get TO 1,000

You've got a long way to go and a lot of changes to make to get TO 1,000

Yea I understand it's not gonna happen over night but all I got is time and I will get there

It's an expensive endeavor trust me im in the midst of it now. Long and short you'll have more in the drivetrain than you did buying the car!

under the hood so far

354594

I have a procharger F1R running at 15lb. of boost and made 933 on the dyno yesterday on race gas getting tuned to trailer it to the superchevy show.

Ran a 10.57 off the bat. at 138.83

I advise you to get the bmr chassis brace to help the stiffness. I say this because my car with a combo of pfadt and bmr components is keeping the car straight thru the qtr.
Ken

Kevin check this out. My motor.

That is nasty bro looks amazing. How long has it taken you to get to that power. I have a question for you hopefully you can tell me I'm new to the working on my car thing the shop that put it on the dyno Said I can get more power but I have a stock bottom end what exactly do I have to upgrade so I don't have a stock bottom end? I appreciate if you could steer me in the right direction.

That is nasty bro looks amazing. How long has it taken you to get to that power. I have a question for you hopefully you can tell me I'm new to the working on my car thing the shop that put it on the dyno Said I can get more power but I have a stock bottom end what exactly do I have to upgrade so I don't have a stock bottom end? I appreciate if you could steer me in the right direction.

You would need at a minimum forged pistons, Hbeam rods, and forged stroker crank. The stroker gets you more ci which all by itself will give you more power. The forged rotating assembly will allow you to force even more air into the motor and make still even more power. I would recommend upgrading your drive line to handle that power level first though.

I have a procharger F1R running at 15lb. of boost and made 933 on the dyno yesterday on race gas getting tuned to trailer it to the superchevy show.

Ran a 10.57 off the bat. at 138.83

I advise you to get the bmr chassis brace to help the stiffness. I say this because my car with a combo of pfadt and bmr components is keeping the car straight thru the qtr.
Ken

Well on that day at the superchevy show we turned up the tune for 112 racegas and blew the stock rearend out.
If you have any intentions of running low 10's or high 9's on this heavy car then get a 9 in. rear like the gforce I have ordered and a strange gearset.

At the same time I'm going with a 4l80e trans built by rpm and the controller made by tci.

I also have a one piece drivshaft coming so maybe I got all the weak links out!

On you trying to get that much hp out of a stock shortblock, the life of it will be short.
Ken

You would need at a minimum forged pistons, Hbeam rods, and forged stroker crank. The stroker gets you more ci which all by itself will give you more power. The forged rotating assembly will allow you to force even more air into the motor and make still even more power. I would recommend upgrading your drive line to handle that power level first though.

^This plus a set of mast heads. And get rid of the serpintine belt.Get a cog setup, they don't slip.

I'd love to have a 9 inch IRS set up but $7 Grand OTD is too rich for my blood. I will stick with a goal of around 600 HP since the stock center section is supposed to be good out to about 650HP.

I'd love to have a 9 inch IRS set up but $7 Grand OTD is too rich for my blood. I will stick with a goal of around 600 HP since the stock center section is supposed to be good out to about 650HP.

I had 32,xxx miles at 712rwhp on completely stock driveline just clutch. Only had one stock axle break and that was when I let a buddy drive my car and he had traction control on and it wheel hopped. Slp on eBay sells sets of axles for 90$. Easy 30min swap for a budget deal to buy some time.

I had 32,xxx miles at 712rwhp on completely stock driveline just clutch. Only had one stock axle break and that was when I let a buddy drive my car and he had traction control on and it wheel hopped. Slp on eBay sells sets of axles for 90$. Easy 30min swap for a budget deal to buy some time.

That's good to hear. That means my plan for the steel 4:11 gears and 1000 HP rated axles will work.

That's good to hear. That means my plan for the steel 4:11 gears and 1000 HP rated axles will work.

I've heard the stock center will hold up to a good 1,000hp

I'm ordering the g force though my goal is 13xxrwhp in the coming weeks

I've heard the stock center will hold up to a good 1,000hp

I'm ordering the g force though my goal is 13xxrwhp in the coming weeks

My goal is to have the power and be able to hook up well enough to run 11.5xx. I want to be able to easily use pump gas and be able to run just a hair slower than where I would need a cage. Quick street car all the way for me.

Mine is and will remain a street car daily driver.
Mine ran 11.5-11.6 as it was stock rear, factory 20s ect so you shouldn't have a problem obtaining that goal