Spohn solid mounts, airlid doesnt line up???
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Spohn solid mounts, airlid doesnt line up???
Someone please offer some insight, I'm at my wit's end. My car used to have an LS1 in it with poly mounts. Now it has an LQ9 based motor, still stock K member, Spohn solid mounts... And the lower airbox/airlid/MAF no longer line up on the HORIZONTAL plane. The airbox is all the way over to the battery, but the FTP 104mm lid + Lingenfelter MAF are about 1/4" too far towards the driver's side of the engine bay to mate with the throttle body.
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You mean driver vs passenger, or which way the mount faces? I didn't put them in, had a shop do it. They went to put the airlid on and said it didn't line up. I told him I'd take the car as is and try to figure it out, rather than him cut anything to make it work. As far as I could tell, both mounts were identical before they went in.
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Just got off the phone with spohn a little while ago... Said they shouldn't even fit on the wrong sides, so I don't think that's the issue. The motor is definitely higher and further towards the passenger side though. Went to check my plug wires for header clearance while I was outside, and could barely get two fingers onto cylinder 8's wire.
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Although it doesn't look like it, there is lots of play in those bolt holes I used the back of the trans as the line up point. If the trans is straight in the tunnel then you're good.
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Best I could get right now with my phone, sorry. Any advice how to adjust the motor or mounts?? The only thing I can think that went wrong, was one bolt pulled threads in the K-member removing the factory stands. Shop drilled and tapped K-member, all 3 other bolt holes for that mount were still in the same spot though and were untouched, so alignment shouldn't have been affected.
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It doesn't look like the engine is sitting tilted, it looks straight. Usually if you ahve the mounts moved off place the engine will sit crooked. Take a straight edge and a water level and see if it's in there level or not.
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Loosen all 16 bolts on the mounts, then take the trans crossmember loose, then push on the tail of the transmission (leverage) until the front of the engine is lined up. No amount of hoping and praying is gonna fix it. Redo it
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You need to look at the motor to see if it sits square...
Over time, the frames get tweaked a little...
Recently I noticed mine was leaning toward one side quite a bit..
I had to make shims for my k member to get things square again...
Mine actually took a full 1" spacer on the drivers side to get it all square again...
In the grand scheme of things...its only about 1* to 1.5* (which is still within good specs)...it doesn't seem like all that much... But visually when you have an intake that sticks up 15", you can really see it...
Take your intake off, put something tall and square on top of your valley cover and you will see just how far off it is...
A need for a 1/2" to 1" spacer is not uncommon
Over time, the frames get tweaked a little...
Recently I noticed mine was leaning toward one side quite a bit..
I had to make shims for my k member to get things square again...
Mine actually took a full 1" spacer on the drivers side to get it all square again...
In the grand scheme of things...its only about 1* to 1.5* (which is still within good specs)...it doesn't seem like all that much... But visually when you have an intake that sticks up 15", you can really see it...
Take your intake off, put something tall and square on top of your valley cover and you will see just how far off it is...
A need for a 1/2" to 1" spacer is not uncommon
Last edited by soundengineer; 03-14-2012 at 10:49 PM.
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And even from your pictures... Just looking at the flat part on the top of the throttle body, I can see that yours has the same twist mine has..
You need some spacers on the k member on your drivers side to even it out.
I also had to pick up some longer bolts for mine when I added the shims
You need some spacers on the k member on your drivers side to even it out.
I also had to pick up some longer bolts for mine when I added the shims