Critique my hotside, pics. Changes are still possible!
03-17-2012, 02:54 AM
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Critique my hotside, pics. Changes are still possible! A friend of mine made me a hotside (free). It is about 95% done so changes are still possible. I will be using a GT91, my motor is a 37x CI iron, Diamond dished pistons, Callies compstar rods, Victor Jr intake, L92 heads (ported), truck crankshaft. Cam specs are 232/234 .595/.576 115 +3
Here is what I am planning on changing
Here are some questions I have
Here is what I am planning on changing
- T6 Flange
- Stainless Braided flex pipe where the red star is
- Stainless Braided flexpipe where the "accordian" flex pipe is.
Here are some questions I have
- Should I move the turbo closer to the center or keep it off to the side
- Ceramic coat ? Wrap? Both?
- Turbo blanket?
- How high or low should the turbo be mounted? Please reference based on CAM height
- How should I run the wastegate, Precision 66mm.
- What exhaust gaskets ?
- Should I switch to ARP exhaust manifold studs?
- How suited is the cam?
- How big of a downpipe? I plan on dumping in by the front wheel
Last edited by DETROIT_AREA_00_SS; 03-17-2012 at 03:24 AM.
03-17-2012, 06:44 AM
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First I would switch all those 3 bolt flanges to v-bands, secondly if it were my setup I would put more of an angle on your wastegate pipe so that it is in the direction of the exhaust flow. Just my opinion in sure others will have their own.
03-17-2012, 08:14 AM
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That's also the concern I have. Looks like it will be too close, if not touching the radiator. We are going to do an in-car fit to see where it will place the GT91
What about height? How high should the flange be for the turbo?
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03-17-2012, 08:48 AM
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The flange should be placed high enough for the Turbo to be able to gravity feed back to the pan.
03-17-2012, 09:31 AM
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Here's my opinion. Keep in mind that I have limited experience with LS motors but I've been playing with various turbo cars for about 15 yrs now. Mostly SBF, BBF and the old SBC and BBC's. The basics are all pretty much he same on any turbo setup.
I Think setup looks pretty good. I have a question. Is this a track toy or a daily driver?? I'm going to assume it's a daily driver and base my responses on that.
I'm going to disagree with everyone else here and say leave the 3 bolt flanges. I've never liked V-Band on street cars. Every one i've used starts to leak and has needed to be tightened OFTEN. If it's a track car then make the change as it will be easier to remove parts at the track..
I wouldn't put another Flex pipe where the red X is unless you plan to hard mount the turbo. What's going to hold the turbo in place?
Turbo and wastegate placement will depend on room in the car. Put it where there is room. Just make sure you have room for a large filter and a larger down pipe.
Again. Street car I would coat and wrap. I've never seen any real difference in underhood temps from just coating. Wrapping makes a huge difference BUT you have to be careful with fluids around it and may need to redo it every couple of years. On a track car this isn't as important. Coat it, wrap it or just leave it alone. doesn't really matter.
Turbo Blanket. Same as about. Street car, yes. Track car doesn't matter.
I would consider putting the wastegate on the opposite side of the flange IF the turbo stays in the current location and try to tilt the pipe up so you have a more direct flow path. From the pic it looks like there would be better flow on that side.
As for Exhaust gaskets. All of your flanges appear to be Thick. I would just make sure they are flat and use copper RTV. If it's a street car just make sure to tighten the bolts after a couple of heat cycles and it should last a long time.
Mount the turbo as high as you can get it and use a large drain to let the turbo gravity drain. Some call it over kill but I run a #12 on my drains and have never had an issue.
If the exhaust is going to hold the turbo up then Manifold studs can't hurt. If the turbo will be hard mounted then there isn't any benefit in spending the money.
Downpipe. You can't go too big. I like to run pipe about 1/2in larger than the exhaust opening on the turbine. If the hole is 3-1/2 then run a 4 inch pipe IF you have the room.
As for cam. I can't help you. As I said most of my experience has been with other motors and I don't know enough about the LS yet to make a recommendation. My build is going to be run the off the shelf LS6 cam.
I Think setup looks pretty good. I have a question. Is this a track toy or a daily driver?? I'm going to assume it's a daily driver and base my responses on that.
I'm going to disagree with everyone else here and say leave the 3 bolt flanges. I've never liked V-Band on street cars. Every one i've used starts to leak and has needed to be tightened OFTEN. If it's a track car then make the change as it will be easier to remove parts at the track..
I wouldn't put another Flex pipe where the red X is unless you plan to hard mount the turbo. What's going to hold the turbo in place?
Turbo and wastegate placement will depend on room in the car. Put it where there is room. Just make sure you have room for a large filter and a larger down pipe.
Again. Street car I would coat and wrap. I've never seen any real difference in underhood temps from just coating. Wrapping makes a huge difference BUT you have to be careful with fluids around it and may need to redo it every couple of years. On a track car this isn't as important. Coat it, wrap it or just leave it alone. doesn't really matter.
Turbo Blanket. Same as about. Street car, yes. Track car doesn't matter.
I would consider putting the wastegate on the opposite side of the flange IF the turbo stays in the current location and try to tilt the pipe up so you have a more direct flow path. From the pic it looks like there would be better flow on that side.
As for Exhaust gaskets. All of your flanges appear to be Thick. I would just make sure they are flat and use copper RTV. If it's a street car just make sure to tighten the bolts after a couple of heat cycles and it should last a long time.
Mount the turbo as high as you can get it and use a large drain to let the turbo gravity drain. Some call it over kill but I run a #12 on my drains and have never had an issue.
If the exhaust is going to hold the turbo up then Manifold studs can't hurt. If the turbo will be hard mounted then there isn't any benefit in spending the money.
Downpipe. You can't go too big. I like to run pipe about 1/2in larger than the exhaust opening on the turbine. If the hole is 3-1/2 then run a 4 inch pipe IF you have the room.
As for cam. I can't help you. As I said most of my experience has been with other motors and I don't know enough about the LS yet to make a recommendation. My build is going to be run the off the shelf LS6 cam.
03-17-2012, 11:25 AM
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Thanks for the responses!
It will see some street, my goal is a streetable racecar. As far as police, I may try to quiet it down a little but not until I see how fast it is. Then I will figure that one out. I am doing a ton of weight reduction, so a heavy catback isn't in the cards for now.
After some research and comments, the WG will need some improvement. The flange will be supported by a pedestal of some sort.
I'll see if it can go any higher during the test fitting.
It will see some street, my goal is a streetable racecar. As far as police, I may try to quiet it down a little but not until I see how fast it is. Then I will figure that one out. I am doing a ton of weight reduction, so a heavy catback isn't in the cards for now.
After some research and comments, the WG will need some improvement. The flange will be supported by a pedestal of some sort.
I'll see if it can go any higher during the test fitting.
03-17-2012, 11:33 AM
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I think the pic makes it look farther from the motor than it really is. I still think it will be a tad too far but making a few cuts and welds isn't a big deal. Yes, the flange and turbo will need to be revised once the turbo gets here next Friday. Remember, this was FREE.
03-17-2012, 03:28 PM
#15
Looks pretty good so far man! Your friend fabbed up the headers too? I was wondering why they had EGR provisions on them, if it is going to be a track car?
I think the most of what I would change you have already said in your first post. T6 flange, and the flex pipe change. Looks alot like Nasty-Ta's setup.
I think the most of what I would change you have already said in your first post. T6 flange, and the flex pipe change. Looks alot like Nasty-Ta's setup.
03-20-2012, 12:55 AM
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Looks pretty good so far man! Your friend fabbed up the headers too? I was wondering why they had EGR provisions on them, if it is going to be a track car?
I think the most of what I would change you have already said in your first post. T6 flange, and the flex pipe change. Looks alot like Nasty-Ta's setup.
I think the most of what I would change you have already said in your first post. T6 flange, and the flex pipe change. Looks alot like Nasty-Ta's setup.
Those are ports for exhaust gas temps for each cylinder: Read the copy/paste below.
"By reading the EGTs on all of the exhaust ports of your engine you'll be able to compare the temps of each, and that can provide valuable information such as a window into your cylinder-to-cylinder air/fuel distribution so you'll know if one cylinder is running leaner than others and you can do something about it before if causes problems."
I am using it to tune and monitor the car.
03-20-2012, 01:09 AM
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Here's my opinion. Keep in mind that I have limited experience with LS motors but I've been playing with various turbo cars for about 15 yrs now. Mostly SBF, BBF and the old SBC and BBC's. The basics are all pretty much he same on any turbo setup.
I Think setup looks pretty good. I have a question. Is this a track toy or a daily driver?? I'm going to assume it's a daily driver and base my responses on that. The goal is a LOW LOW LOW 9 second car, maybe high 8's. The car will be driven on the street for fun on lower boost.
I'm going to disagree with everyone else here and say leave the 3 bolt flanges. I've never liked V-Band on street cars. Every one i've used starts to leak and has needed to be tightened OFTEN. If it's a track car then make the change as it will be easier to remove parts at the track.. If possible I'd like to keep the 3-bolt, if the access looks ok. If not, I'll switch to the V-bands
I wouldn't put another Flex pipe where the red X is unless you plan to hard mount the turbo. What's going to hold the turbo in place?Some type of pedestal
Turbo and wastegate placement will depend on room in the car. Put it where there is room. Just make sure you have room for a large filter and a larger down pipe.The downpipe is exiting near the front tire
Again. Street car I would coat and wrap. I've never seen any real difference in underhood temps from just coating. Wrapping makes a huge difference BUT you have to be careful with fluids around it and may need to redo it every couple of years. On a track car this isn't as important. Coat it, wrap it or just leave it alone. doesn't really matter. I am going to coat and wrap I think.
Turbo Blanket. Same as about. Street car, yes. Track car doesn't matter. Still undecided, probably add later
I would consider putting the wastegate on the opposite side of the flange IF the turbo stays in the current location and try to tilt the pipe up so you have a more direct flow path. From the pic it looks like there would be better flow on that side. Thanks, that is what needs to be done I think.
As for Exhaust gaskets. All of your flanges appear to be Thick. I would just make sure they are flat and use copper RTV. If it's a street car just make sure to tighten the bolts after a couple of heat cycles and it should last a long time. Meaning the 3-bolt flanges?
Mount the turbo as high as you can get it and use a large drain to let the turbo gravity drain. Some call it over kill but I run a #12 on my drains and have never had an issue. Thanks. I will look into an "overkill" size too.
If the exhaust is going to hold the turbo up then Manifold studs can't hurt. If the turbo will be hard mounted then there isn't any benefit in spending the money.I am always so paranoid of breaking a bolt....the money might be worth it. I know if I have to remove them I will be sweating *****... hoping one doesn's snap.
Downpipe. You can't go too big. I like to run pipe about 1/2in larger than the exhaust opening on the turbine. If the hole is 3-1/2 then run a 4 inch pipe IF you have the room. Is the standard a 1/2" bigger than the hole? Sounds a lot like.....nevermind.
As for cam. I can't help you. As I said most of my experience has been with other motors and I don't know enough about the LS yet to make a recommendation. My build is going to be run the off the shelf LS6 cam.I have had a few people who seem to have a lot of cam knowledge tell me it looks good. If anyone disagrees, please sound off!
I Think setup looks pretty good. I have a question. Is this a track toy or a daily driver?? I'm going to assume it's a daily driver and base my responses on that. The goal is a LOW LOW LOW 9 second car, maybe high 8's. The car will be driven on the street for fun on lower boost.
I'm going to disagree with everyone else here and say leave the 3 bolt flanges. I've never liked V-Band on street cars. Every one i've used starts to leak and has needed to be tightened OFTEN. If it's a track car then make the change as it will be easier to remove parts at the track.. If possible I'd like to keep the 3-bolt, if the access looks ok. If not, I'll switch to the V-bands
I wouldn't put another Flex pipe where the red X is unless you plan to hard mount the turbo. What's going to hold the turbo in place?Some type of pedestal
Turbo and wastegate placement will depend on room in the car. Put it where there is room. Just make sure you have room for a large filter and a larger down pipe.The downpipe is exiting near the front tire
Again. Street car I would coat and wrap. I've never seen any real difference in underhood temps from just coating. Wrapping makes a huge difference BUT you have to be careful with fluids around it and may need to redo it every couple of years. On a track car this isn't as important. Coat it, wrap it or just leave it alone. doesn't really matter. I am going to coat and wrap I think.
Turbo Blanket. Same as about. Street car, yes. Track car doesn't matter. Still undecided, probably add later
I would consider putting the wastegate on the opposite side of the flange IF the turbo stays in the current location and try to tilt the pipe up so you have a more direct flow path. From the pic it looks like there would be better flow on that side. Thanks, that is what needs to be done I think.
As for Exhaust gaskets. All of your flanges appear to be Thick. I would just make sure they are flat and use copper RTV. If it's a street car just make sure to tighten the bolts after a couple of heat cycles and it should last a long time. Meaning the 3-bolt flanges?
Mount the turbo as high as you can get it and use a large drain to let the turbo gravity drain. Some call it over kill but I run a #12 on my drains and have never had an issue. Thanks. I will look into an "overkill" size too.
If the exhaust is going to hold the turbo up then Manifold studs can't hurt. If the turbo will be hard mounted then there isn't any benefit in spending the money.I am always so paranoid of breaking a bolt....the money might be worth it. I know if I have to remove them I will be sweating *****... hoping one doesn's snap.
Downpipe. You can't go too big. I like to run pipe about 1/2in larger than the exhaust opening on the turbine. If the hole is 3-1/2 then run a 4 inch pipe IF you have the room. Is the standard a 1/2" bigger than the hole? Sounds a lot like.....nevermind.
As for cam. I can't help you. As I said most of my experience has been with other motors and I don't know enough about the LS yet to make a recommendation. My build is going to be run the off the shelf LS6 cam.I have had a few people who seem to have a lot of cam knowledge tell me it looks good. If anyone disagrees, please sound off!
Thanks!