mighty mex

iTrader: (3)

I have heard that people replace the crank bolt when doing a cam swap because the bolt cannot be re-used. My question is why can't the bolt be re-used? I have done many cam swaps on SBC's before and have never had to replace the crank bolt unless something was wrong with it.

99ragtopSS

The bolts used in the LS1 stretch when they are installed. The same is true for the head bolts. I guess you could reuse the same bolt but for a few extra $$ it might not be worth the expense if it falls out.

mighty mex

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info guys.
I did know that the head bolts were "torque-to-yeild" but I never knew that about the crank bolt. I finally got the answer I have been looking for. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Tin Indian

Here is some useful tips in removing and installing your crank pulley:

Hope it helps
_______________________________________________

Autozone has two different size gear pullers you can borrow. Use the smaller size 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley. Also, you will need a longer crank bolt. The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point ½” drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt.

If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!!

Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.

On an A4 car, remove the 2 bolts that hold up the starter. Let the starter just hang by it’s wires. Put a steel pin such as a large allen wrench in one of the holes in the flex plate (flywheel). Turn the engine with your ½ inch drive breaker bar attached to the 24mm ½” drive socket until the engine stops turning do the to pin hitting up against the block. You will need about a 2 foot piece of pipe [and] your long ½” drive breaker bar to loosen the pulley bolt. In fact, I had to use both feet to loosen the bolt!

Once the bolt breaks loose, install the puller. As you use the puller, you will need to unscrew the crank bolt when the pulley hits up against it. Keep doing this until there are not enough threads left on the stock bolt to pull the pulley all the way off. Then install your longer NAPA bolt and pull the pulley the rest of the way off.

You will also need this longer bolt to start pushing the pulley back on the crank during re-assembly. The stock bolt is just not long enough, and banging on the pulley to start it on the crank is NOT the answer.

Ron,

ToplessZ

I went to NAPA and ordered a bolt with that part number. I come back the next day. The guy won't sell me just one bolt. He says he has to sell the whole box because he would never sell the rest and can't send back a partial box. He wants $75 for the box. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> I tell him he's friggin' crazy! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> Is there any place else to get a longer crank bolt?

JAY

Tin Indian

The NAPA I went to in Peorea,AZ had trays full of the various bolts. Must have been 10 or so of this bolt. They sold each bolt individually. The store was just an average size NAPA too. Not that large.

I would go find another NAPA store.

Good luck....

mighty mex

iTrader: (3)

well first of all, i do know how to use a puller to take off the balancer and secondly why dont you guys just go to your local chevy or pontiac/gmc dealer and get the crank bolt from there too. they are only $3.00 at the dealer also, that way you wont have to pay shipping.
oh and one last thing, instead of spending money on another, longer, crank bolt, all you need to do is put a 6", 3/8 drive, extension where the crank bolt goes. then use the pulley puller to push against the extension and the pulley will come ALL the off completely, and you just saved yourself $5.00. if it were me i would use those $5.00 towards a nice ice cold 6 pack of miller lite <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

<small>[ March 04, 2003, 10:37 PM: Message edited by: mighty mex ]</small>

Bluestreak

Jeff's right. They are called "torque-to-yield" and they are designed to be stretched into place. You use the old bolt to seat the crank pulley then replace it with the new one. If I remember correctly, I got the bolt with my install kit from PaceParts.com and it was a whopping $3. Spend the extra cash. If that old bolt doesn't hold, and your pulley tries to walk off the crank snout (which I have heard has happened before) I think that the $3 for a new bolt far outweighs the costs associated with the repair of a your LS1 should the crank be damaged in some way.

JurisAg02

if three bucks is an issue during an ls1 cam swap then you need to rethink your plans <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

<small>[ March 04, 2003, 12:24 PM: Message edited by: PhatT/A ]</small>