No kick down and spark retard problems
#1
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No kick down and spark retard problems
Ok so replaced my knock sensor because I was getting knock retard. Long story short that's fixed but the car hasnt been downshifting and now it's pulling timing. The car is a 95 Camaro auto.
I used data master and logged what was happening and saw that my tps was only showing 85% at wot so l replaced it with a new one. But it's still showing 85% at wot and it's pulling 7* timing also.
What hell could be the problem? I'm ready pull my hair out because I don't know where to start. If anyone can help or wants to look at the datamaster file please let me know!!!
I used data master and logged what was happening and saw that my tps was only showing 85% at wot so l replaced it with a new one. But it's still showing 85% at wot and it's pulling 7* timing also.
What hell could be the problem? I'm ready pull my hair out because I don't know where to start. If anyone can help or wants to look at the datamaster file please let me know!!!
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anyone have any clue why my new tps is still only showing 85% at WOT?
Im still not understanding why its pulling timing again. After I replaced the knock sensor I data logged a few revs while sitting still and was not getting any timing pulled...then a few days later I data logged again while driving and its pulling timing again. Not sure why? or its normal while driving around under a load?
I think I have to seperate problems but any ideas would be great!
Im still not understanding why its pulling timing again. After I replaced the knock sensor I data logged a few revs while sitting still and was not getting any timing pulled...then a few days later I data logged again while driving and its pulling timing again. Not sure why? or its normal while driving around under a load?
I think I have to seperate problems but any ideas would be great!
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Did you look at your TB blades to make sure they are 100% open or completely horizontal, and verify at that point the TPS is at 100% or close to it?
You can look at it with a DC Voltmeter as well, it should be around a half a volt closed and close to 4.5 to 5 volts all the way open., you can also slightly elongate the holes that the fasteners go through so you can adjust this.
You can look at it with a DC Voltmeter as well, it should be around a half a volt closed and close to 4.5 to 5 volts all the way open., you can also slightly elongate the holes that the fasteners go through so you can adjust this.