SeeTSvee

iTrader: (1)

I'm freshening up my P1SC head unit, and I'm to the point of removing the impeller to replace the inner output shaft bearing. I've studied exploded views, looked at every rebuild thread on the net, and i'm still only 99% sure I'm pressing this correctly, but I don't see another method. This is the case in my press...this is just to get it moving. I have a dowel I will use when the shaft is deeper into the impeller bore.


Anyone who may have done this before-am I doing this right? I heard it takes a lot of force, but I dont want to break expensive **** simply because I didn't ask before I pressed. Thanks in advance!

Robbie

SeeTSvee

iTrader: (1)

Nobody here has done this before?

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

You probably wont find many people who have rebuilt their own head units. Most just send theirs back to Procharger. Are you using the rebuild kit from superchargerrebuilds? I will be interested to see how it works out for you.

flame

iTrader: (13)

You may need to heat the impeler to get it to crack free. The reason not many rebuild their own is 1. lack of parts and 2. clearances are very critical when reassembling. Good luck!!

gotchocmilk39

iTrader: (1)

Wish I could help, but if and when your fingure this out could you show pictures of behind the impeller. I am replacing my o-ring and seals here soon on my p1sc-1. I have 2 sets of instuctions from mustange forums but they dont show many picturtes.

KS91Z28

Get the impeller hot enough and you won't have to press it at all.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

i hope this works out for you. please make a detailed thread so that future forum travelers can see how to do this. there are not a ton of threads out there on this, and it would be nice to know.

SeeTSvee

iTrader: (1)

I start to worry about melting it and/or the structural integrity of the little guy. I put a good amount of load on it on the press while heating it with a hair dryer. That's about all the heat I was willing to put to it at the time. I know aluminum won't give you an "im gonna melt!!" warning-it just wilts.

SeeTSvee

iTrader: (1)

And I plan on detailing the areas other threads about this don't cover. Like this pain in the ***.

00Wildcat

put pressure on it with the press and use a propane or map gas torch like a plumber would use, apply heat evenly around the bore of the impellor. with light pressure it will "pop" loose when you get it hot enough. don't worry about over heating if you have pressure on shaft and heat evenly. Use some common sense, don't hold the torch in 1 spot and avoid the tips of the blades.

00Wildcat

One of those little pencil torches might work well between the blades. a hair dryer isn't going to do anything unless you just got out of the shower and water is dripping off your head. a really good heat gun might get it hot enough like a Milwalkee (not some Walmart POS)

SeeTSvee

iTrader: (1)

Well to be honest, I'd rather accidentally melt the impeller while removing it than break the case trying to press it out incorrectly! At least it'd be an opportunity for a D1 upgrade..

xFLG KING PIN

I will be rebuild my D blower as well in a few weeks. Esp since SCRB just lowered a bunch of their prices and now it makes $$$ since (again) for me to do it myself.

vmapper

iTrader: (8)

That looks like a P1SC-1, not a P1SC.

SeeTSvee

iTrader: (1)

The data plate says P1SC.

SeeTSvee

iTrader: (1)

I have only owned an F1 and this, what is the difference between the P1SC and the P1SC-1?

KS91Z28

Sounds like somebody has done this before ....

KS91Z28

Correct. The P1SC has straight blades. The P1SC-1 has curved blades.

vmapper

iTrader: (8)

Then someone at some point put in a P-1SC-1 impeller, or the -1 at the end faded or rubbed down.
P-1SC have straight blade impeller

The P-1SC-1 uses the same impeller type (straight and curved impeller blades) as what is in the D-1SC, except its diameter is smaller in the P-1SC-1 (which happens to be the diameter size of a P-1SC).
Another term used is H.O. (high output) for kits. These H.O. kits, such as with a GTO or corvette procharger kit, is given a 'baby' D-1SC so to speak - the P-1SC-1.
some pics of a P-1SC-1 (on the right) vs a D-1SC
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...sc-vs-f1a.html

P-1SC:
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...GcaEEYjrj2MWtE


You can buy an aftermarket P-1SC straight blade that is Curved. Post# 79
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h.../p1stg2ccw.jpg

Many people when discussing, use the term P-1SC, when in fact they actually have a P-1SC-1. There is a VERY Large difference in using a P-1SC vs a P-1SC-1. To give you an example:
A P-1SC maxed out on a stock LS6 can only make 6.5psi (at 3300 ft). I learned the hard way, when everyone says P-1SC, in their vehicle, able to make way more boost, when in fact (after buying brand new from procharger a P-1SC, they actually have a P-1SC-1... P-1SC are used for 4.6 L or smaller IMO.

Sorry to drift the subject at hand.

SeeTSvee

iTrader: (1)

It is an H.O. GTO kit. I did some research myself, and noticed the difference with the impeller design. I guess the -1 rubbed off. It had an oil soaked blower blanket on it when I took possession. Needless to say, it's in the garbage now.

Impeller should be off this afternoon!!