Eastern Members - Rotary buffer gets it done!

http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=15391&pictureid=89311

Long story made really short.

2001 Chevrolet Silverado
117k WORK TRUCK
Very neglected (5 yrs since washed/waxed/cleaned)
Customer just wanted to compounded

We spent bout 1-2 hours on the hood alone with a D/A Porter Cable.

LCC Pads

Green (corse) M105 @ 5
Yellow Cutting M105 @ 5
Orange Swirl/Cutting M105 @ 5
White Polishing M205 @ 2-3

Looked good all things considering but we had a whole truck to do and not 40 hours.

So I said frig this and pulled out the Rotary

The pic you see is the driver side door.

LCC Pads

Orange M105 @ 2 +1 click Med press. Med arm speed (Rotary)
Orange M105 @ 5 on the DA
White M205 @ 2-3 on the DA

Wiped clean, pulled the tape, took a pic

Corrected a honest 90% and there are sometimes you need to pull out the big guns. No paint depth checker but will get one soon. This tool does work when its needed. Most cars dont need it but having both has a place in my tool bag.

Feel free to ask questions or comment.

*** just to add

The D/A passes

1x Green
2x Yellow
2x Orange
2x White

vs 1 pass of each on the rotary and subsequent D/A passes.

Also the Rotary does leave a typical buffer swirl/trail and the DA worked very well to get rid of that.

Very nice job! I havent been brave enough to get a rotary but then again I havent had anything bad enough for it really. I cleaned up my truck with the Porter Cable and Adams products.

This is after one pass of Adams Swirl and Haze remover with orange pad.
358496

358497

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Finished... Swirl and Haze remover, Polish (white pad), and sealant (black pad).
358499

i need to do this really bad. the finished product looks great.

Looks great slow. Like said most car that are taken care of never need it but getting a good canidate to work on can show that how much power these guys have. Its a risk you take, if the car has been cut before and its that damaged, you cant put a rotary too it, thats why its good to have a checker.

Its on you if you screw up.

Looks good. I got back into the game a little this weekend, detailed an sti, evo and bmw 135i. No paint correction but it was nice to get back into some detailing.

Yea, and I was sore a fuck by the time night time came. Felt like petrified wood, in all of the wrong places lol.

Yea, and I was sore a fuck by the time night time came. Felt like petrified wood, in all of the wrong places lol.

I am right there with you, I am sore right now.

That truck was a disaster LOL. Jobs like that one are the kind that make you want to retire from this stuff :jest:

But, it's side work and I'll take anything/anything. 25K BBC's don't grow on trees :jest:

Anyone else want a mess fixed LOL. Send it over. We're not miracle workers, and can't do the impossible.... but we're not scared.

"Never lift Detailing" just saying

Nice job, can't beat a rotary when time is of the essence.

Danno this wasn't a matter of not having the time. It was more a matter of a random just didn't have the cutting ability needed to get the thing cleaned up.

Think about a truck, probably seen the woods, or situations that resemble it, never waxed once, never washed ever, and every guy walking by it is dragging their arm, coat, etc. on the side of the truck.

It was a disaster. I have seen stuff in junk yards that wasn't as bad as this was. The fact that it even came back as good as it did is a miracle.

Is there a whole kit? I'd like to see how it works on my Durango that needs some serious help.

Is there a whole kit? I'd like to see how it works on my Durango that needs some serious help.

Most detailing sites offer a "kit" and most of them have what you need. Everyone has personal preference on pad and compounds as well as Dual Action or Rotary.

Most beginners would do well with the D/A but learning the rotary is valuable as well in this case.

Still had to work our asses off and like JL said sometimes you need to get the job done and he is right. It's hard to find junk yard parts that are damaged but still salvageable enough to practice on.

Danno this wasn't a matter of not having the time. It was more a matter of a random just didn't have the cutting ability needed to get the thing cleaned up.

Think about a truck, probably seen the woods, or situations that resemble it, never waxed once, never washed ever, and every guy walking by it is dragging their arm, coat, etc. on the side of the truck.

It was a disaster. I have seen stuff in junk yards that wasn't as bad as this was. The fact that it even came back as good as it did is a miracle.

Stuff must have been real bad, Older GM paint usually is fairly compliant to work with. But I agree a porter cable is just one tool in the arsenal and sometimes you need a better tool to get the tough jobs done. Like posted you could have done the job with a PC but it would have taken forever to get the correction done. Looks like you guys made the right choice. Based on the description and picture I would not have started w/ a PC either.

I noticed you used a green Lake Country pad to start. That is less cut than the orange. I would have just skipped that pad and went right to yellow/orange/white.

You guys have any more before and after pics? I love seeing results on a hammered vehicle.

We did not bother with the before and after as it was just a bone. We ended up opending up a bottle of Gold Class wax that I had but never used. Gave a nice dark blue, and the owner was happy.

I am suprised they considered the COARSE Green pad lighter than yellow or orange considering the pores are huge and the pad is rough compared to yellow or orange. But the density factors in.

wool is your friend there......

Nice job guys....


JL when are we going to get together???

A wool pad would have been nice, didn't hvae one (haven't gotten any of those, at least yet)

The green pad seems to work on a first pass.. it at least started to knock it down a little. Even after claying the whole truck adn washign it a 2nd time the paint still felt rough.. green pad got rid of that. Then onto the yellow, orange, then the wite with the finer material.

I could actually make a case for a more agressive material then the 105 with the random orbital for stuff like this.. that way we don't have to take that step to the rotary (have one more agressive step before going to the rotary)

Pat any time. I'm around in teh morning usually all week... nothing really going on at the house right now, once I have my sled back from JW there will be alot more :cool: stuff to look at in the garage LOL.

You still going to the gym in Southington? I need to get back there, my niece is off for the summer pretty soon and I think she's going to want to go, so I'll probably end up taking her with me on monday and wednesday in the mornings... but I need to really get myself alot more motivated to go back again. I want to get back to 230 before I get the car done, and have alot of work to get there LOL.

Just to mention I do have a wool pad for the rotary and could have pulled it out but orange worked fine.

If I knew you had that I would have told you to bust it out... you're holding out on me

:judge:

Because I'm the Baus!

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