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need help picking out a camshaft

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Old 08-02-2012, 08:58 PM
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Default need help picking out a camshaft

Ive got a 99 ta and need some help picking out a cam. So far ive got ported ls6 heads, yank ss 3600 stall, fast 92/92, tsp 1 3/4 lt, catted y, magnaflow catbak, planning on getting 42lb injectors, and im still on stock 10 bolt rearend and gears im gunna upgrade it when it goes out. The machinist recommended p/n 54-428-11 228/230 duration .571/.573 lift 112 ls. Car is a every day driver so i dont do much racing but i do go out to the track every once in a while just figured id get some input from the pros on here before i order the cam any advice is appreciated.
Old 08-02-2012, 09:02 PM
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i have near same set up as you, im going with a 230/235, .600/.612, 114+4lsa. a good top end screamer
Old 08-03-2012, 03:41 AM
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That will make for a good DD cam, with the mild lobes it'll be easy on your valvetrain, but you'll make more power with a 228/228 112lsa w/XER lobes, .588"/.588" lift. Another option would be a 230/230 112lsa +3, .573"/,573" lift that uses the same Extreme RPM High lift series of lobes as the cam you listed. The 230 lobe # is 3718.
Last option is also a 230/230 112lsa +3, .592"/.592" lift w/xer lobes#3725.
IMO, for the best valvetrain life with a little less power go with the 230/230 112lsa +3, .573"/,573" lift with Extreme RPM High lift lobes. More power, then the 228 or 230 cams w/xer lobes will do you good!
The largest I would go would be the Comp Cams #54-446-11 (232/234 112lsa+2 w/xer lobes), it'll give up a little lowend tq to the smaller cams, but I doubt it would a issue at all with the Yank SS3600 stall.
BTW, I think you'll be happy with any of these cams!

Last edited by 99Bluz28; 08-03-2012 at 03:48 AM.
Old 08-03-2012, 03:46 AM
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To quote the GTO guys Megadeth or GTFO. Id go with a better grind around the same specs
Old 08-03-2012, 04:18 AM
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Id contact EPS and go with their 226/234 114 cam. Great daily driver cam, itll make great power across the board. I made 399rwhp with a 232/236 .600 cam in my cadillac, and a friend made 398rwhp with an EPS 226/230 cam. Same dyno and same tuner also identical mods.
Old 08-04-2012, 12:14 PM
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if your just out for sound and good street manners id go with the 228r from tsp... im sure they have it on the shelf and you'll have it asap... or if it were me id go with a 227/234 .614/.612 114+4 lsl/lxl cam but one more good option is the gm hotcam....
Old 08-04-2012, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
That will make for a good DD cam, with the mild lobes it'll be easy on your valvetrain, but you'll make more power with a 228/228 112lsa w/XER lobes, .588"/.588" lift. Another option would be a 230/230 112lsa +3, .573"/,573" lift that uses the same Extreme RPM High lift series of lobes as the cam you listed. The 230 lobe # is 3718.
Last option is also a 230/230 112lsa +3, .592"/.592" lift w/xer lobes#3725.
IMO, for the best valvetrain life with a little less power go with the 230/230 112lsa +3, .573"/,573" lift with Extreme RPM High lift lobes. More power, then the 228 or 230 cams w/xer lobes will do you good!
The largest I would go would be the Comp Cams #54-446-11 (232/234 112lsa+2 w/xer lobes), it'll give up a little lowend tq to the smaller cams, but I doubt it would a issue at all with the Yank SS3600 stall.
BTW, I think you'll be happy with any of these cams!
Is there a reason why you like those lobes? I just think there are better and newer lobes out there than the old school style lobes. You seem to know what you're talking about in some of the other threads, but with the sewing machine type noise that is associated with those lobes I try to stay away from them.

I spec a lot of custom cams and I have a few that I like to use in cars like this.

Something with a LXL intake and exhaust lobe like a 226/230 .605"/.609" 113+2 or 230/230 .609"/.609" 113+3 would do well in your set-up.

We have a cam package for 679.99 that includes lunati .660" gold dual springs and manley hardened 7.400" pushrods as part of that package.
Old 08-05-2012, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
Is there a reason why you like those lobes? I just think there are better and newer lobes out there than the old school style lobes. You seem to know what you're talking about in some of the other threads, but with the sewing machine type noise that is associated with those lobes I try to stay away from them.

I spec a lot of custom cams and I have a few that I like to use in cars like this.

Something with a LXL intake and exhaust lobe like a 226/230 .605"/.609" 113+2 or 230/230 .609"/.609" 113+3 would do well in your set-up.

We have a cam package for 679.99 that includes lunati .660" gold dual springs and manley hardened 7.400" pushrods as part of that package.
There's still plenty of people that don't want valve lift over .600" and/or aggressive lobes, and he made no reference to wanting a the highest output cam, so that's why I didn't suggest the XFI, LSL, or LXL lobes
And as far as valvetrain noise the XER lobes are no worst than the XFI or LSL in that regard. I will have to agree the LXl lobes in a 226/226, 226/230 or even a 230/230 would be a better option, but that's if he's willing to take lift over .600". Another very good option would be for him to contact EPS about a cam with their lobes.
Old 08-05-2012, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
There's still plenty of people that don't want valve lift over .600" and/or aggressive lobes, and he made no reference to wanting a the highest output cam, so that's why I didn't suggest the XFI, LSL, or LXL lobes
And as far as valvetrain noise the XER lobes are no worst than the XFI or LSL in that regard. I will have to agree the LXl lobes in a 226/226, 226/230 or even a 230/230 would be a better option, but that's if he's willing to take lift over .600". Another very good option would be for him to contact EPS about a cam with their lobes.
Just looking at lift numbers tells you nothing about how aggressive the lobe is though and I think you know that.

Looking at the numbers at .200, .050 and total duration along with lobe lift tells the tale. LXL is a pretty mild lobe.

I haven't heard much if any valve train noise from my lsl lobed cam and it's a thumper in that regard to @.050 duration.

I think you'd be surprised to know that EPS lobes are very close to LXL lobes at least in their description on their website.

The older XFI, XER extreme rpm lobes have a very fast open and close on the valve. That is where most of the "sewing machine" noise comes from and soft in the middle. This gives them a very broad and wide lobe that creates a lot of area and a "milder" in a sense lobe because of the area.

The HUC, LXL, LSL and LSK lobes have a slower open and close rate, but faster in the middle which takes a lot of that associated valve train noise away while giving a very smooth ramp rate while not giving anything up over the lobes I first mentioned in my post that have more of the "sewing machine" noise. While they don't have as much area or as broad as the older lobes they are still very stable if you stay away from the bigger durations and the LSK lobes. I don't really ever recommend the LSK lobes unless the valve train is just crazy light and the customer just has to have those lobes.

I think the LXL lobes would make a good option for all LS cars.
Old 08-06-2012, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
Just looking at lift numbers tells you nothing about how aggressive the lobe is though and I think you know that.

Looking at the numbers at .200, .050 and total duration along with lobe lift tells the tale. LXL is a pretty mild lobe.

I haven't heard much if any valve train noise from my lsl lobed cam and it's a thumper in that regard to @.050 duration.

I think you'd be surprised to know that EPS lobes are very close to LXL lobes at least in their description on their website.

The older XFI, XER extreme rpm lobes have a very fast open and close on the valve. That is where most of the "sewing machine" noise comes from and soft in the middle. This gives them a very broad and wide lobe that creates a lot of area and a "milder" in a sense lobe because of the area.

The HUC, LXL, LSL and LSK lobes have a slower open and close rate, but faster in the middle which takes a lot of that associated valve train noise away while giving a very smooth ramp rate while not giving anything up over the lobes I first mentioned in my post that have more of the "sewing machine" noise. While they don't have as much area or as broad as the older lobes they are still very stable if you stay away from the bigger durations and the LSK lobes. I don't really ever recommend the LSK lobes unless the valve train is just crazy light and the customer just has to have those lobes.

I think the LXL lobes would make a good option for all LS cars.
Yeah I know that the lift doesn't tell you whether it's an aggressive lobe or not it's the ramp rates, and I always look at the lift at .006", .050" and .200". The problem is that a lot of people just look at the .050" lift and equate that with how aggressive the lobes are that it.
Old 08-06-2012, 12:17 AM
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Subscribing....


I'm going to follow this for a bit. I know nothing about cams really but it seems that there is plenty of knowledge on board this thread.

I'll be wanting to cam my otherwise stock LY6 that's being swapped into an older G body before long and I'm always interested in following others' builds as well.

OP...Good luck with your final selection. It seems to me you have some knowledgable information being offered up here. The tiny bit of experience that I do have with cam selection has tought me to error on the side of a smaller cam though your converter will sway that a bit more in the direction of the bigger end as compared to a stock converter being in place. To me torque is fun so I personally tend to lean toward a smaller cam especially since all my projects are street/strip applications. If you had mentioned your intentions were a track only car then I would expect bigger cams would be offered up. Again...I'd say you have some very sound advice in this thread and depending on how much you want to upgrade your valve train has a lot to do with cam selection as well so if you're not dropping a lot of money into your valve train as well then that should be highly considered and will effect your final decision as to which cam is best for your intended application. The last thing you want to do is go over board on a cam and then short change your valve train...Do that and you're going to shorten the life of your valve train by exponential amounts.



Roach

Last edited by roach4047; 08-06-2012 at 12:25 AM.



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