TCI SSF 3500 is it to much?
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TCI SSF 3500 is it to much?
TCI has the SSF3500 stall converter,is it too much for the street? This car is weekends only not a daily driver.TCI has the SF 3000 would this be better for street and some strip usage?
DR can be purchased.
SSF 3500 pn 242932
SF 3000 pn 242931
One guy was telling me that the 3500 would be way to much, that its meant for a 500hp engine, 4:11 gears and he said fill up your tank before going anywhere .I would be in 1/2 my power range before I would notice anything (slipping to much)WTF.
Whats your input....
Thanks
Andy
DR can be purchased.
SSF 3500 pn 242932
SF 3000 pn 242931
One guy was telling me that the 3500 would be way to much, that its meant for a 500hp engine, 4:11 gears and he said fill up your tank before going anywhere .I would be in 1/2 my power range before I would notice anything (slipping to much)WTF.
Whats your input....
Thanks
Andy
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I'd say he doesn't know what he is talking about.
I have a TCISSF3500 and it's fine on the street. I actually like it better than the stocker.
I have a 98 T/A 3.23 gears,lid,cut-out,converter-3,270lbs w/half tank of gas.
I drive well over 100miles a week with my car.All city.
I have a TCISSF3500 and it's fine on the street. I actually like it better than the stocker.
I have a 98 T/A 3.23 gears,lid,cut-out,converter-3,270lbs w/half tank of gas.
I drive well over 100miles a week with my car.All city.
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Originally Posted by lerajie
I'd say he doesn't know what he is talking about.
I have a TCISSF3500 and it's fine on the street. I actually like it better than the stocker.
I have a 98 T/A 3.23 gears,lid,cut-out,converter-3,270lbs w/half tank of gas.
I drive well over 100miles a week with my car.All city.
I have a TCISSF3500 and it's fine on the street. I actually like it better than the stocker.
I have a 98 T/A 3.23 gears,lid,cut-out,converter-3,270lbs w/half tank of gas.
I drive well over 100miles a week with my car.All city.
Has your gas milage dropped?
Thanks Andy
PS I may bug you with more Q'S
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i agree 100% with lerajie
i just got my 3500 installed last week and it felt a little loose for the first day driving it.. now i dont even notice it unless i press the loud pedal.. local people were saying the same thing to me about how it was way to much... glad i didnt listen to them..
i just got my 3500 installed last week and it felt a little loose for the first day driving it.. now i dont even notice it unless i press the loud pedal.. local people were saying the same thing to me about how it was way to much... glad i didnt listen to them..
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It gets shitty if I have to drive under 40 a whole lot. Turns out if I speed a little bit it's just about the same as stock. I keep the car up around 40 on the 30's and 35's and the converter locks up.
I went from a 13.39@103 w/1.98 60' to a 12.9@105 1.8 60' with a really mild launch on my first of only two passes. I'm running 255/50/16 BFG DRs now whereas I had 245/16 Yokohama all seasons before. Mods: Lid,Cut-out,Free mods,Converter and that's it.
If my times seem kinda whack I don't know what to tell you. The people here on LS1tech running quicker stock must have better Cars,tracks,air and drivers.Cause I sure as hell couldn't have run 12's stock.
Picked up MPH and lowered ET/60' so I know the converter is doing it's job.
I'm happy with it. It did what I realistically expected it to do. Secretly I was hoping for the .7 et reduction right off the bat but I figured it would pan out like it did.
I went from a 13.39@103 w/1.98 60' to a 12.9@105 1.8 60' with a really mild launch on my first of only two passes. I'm running 255/50/16 BFG DRs now whereas I had 245/16 Yokohama all seasons before. Mods: Lid,Cut-out,Free mods,Converter and that's it.
If my times seem kinda whack I don't know what to tell you. The people here on LS1tech running quicker stock must have better Cars,tracks,air and drivers.Cause I sure as hell couldn't have run 12's stock.
Picked up MPH and lowered ET/60' so I know the converter is doing it's job.
I'm happy with it. It did what I realistically expected it to do. Secretly I was hoping for the .7 et reduction right off the bat but I figured it would pan out like it did.
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My best is 13.2 with cutout and 01 LS6 cam and so on.So our cars are close.Looks like I may hit 12's also.Thanks man I'll keep you posted.
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convertors are going to help if you have traction and basically get used to launching it. MANY get slower with a big convertor as they spin. put some nittos or et streets and you will be FLYING.
as for that jackass that told you all that stuff about a 3500 convertor, he is either ignorant or old school.
as for that jackass that told you all that stuff about a 3500 convertor, he is either ignorant or old school.
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How is high passing effected? Very similar to the stock one?
If you pass at 60mph does the car jump up to the next gear nicely?
If you pass at 60mph does the car jump up to the next gear nicely?
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I would say nitto's on street, and dont race (go to jail).
Then i would have gone with the 3800 or bigger and run ET streets for the strip.
I've got too much torque for nitto's (on the tracks here), and Et streets, well i can't spin em no matter what, so i'd guess too little power.
The SE of the 3500 is better suited for a mild cam or just bolton car. 3800 would be wiser for mid-cam/bolton, and those with heads i'd just get a big *** 'verter.
Once the verter locks up at 30-35mph it doesn't matter they are all the same mpg at that point. The biggest penalty is the 0-lockup on mpg. Heavy city driving the stock converter rocked. Freeway, it won't matter if you have a 4400 or 3000, imo, but you must pick the 'verter to meet your power band, shift extension being PRIMO important next to stall.
Yeah i thought 3500 was good, i was wrong, i thought nitto's were cool at the track, i was wrong. Best was 12.1 @ 112.60 on nitto's spinning them. The ET streets are a very wise investment for strip. No point playing throttle games and destroying your necessary street tires at the strip...
thats my opinion.
Also get a deep pan, biggest trans cooler you can fit in there, and a tune. I need a bigger +3qt pan, and perhaps another (or a bigger) trans cooler. Hotlapping on hot days you'll find your drag strip trans fluid temps way too high to be safe without the right setup.
Do it once, nobody wants to do it again. Plan ahead for your future, be it cams/heads/nitrous.
Had i a choice again, i would go 3800 but i'm not swapping to a bigger verter till i blow my trans..
Then i would have gone with the 3800 or bigger and run ET streets for the strip.
I've got too much torque for nitto's (on the tracks here), and Et streets, well i can't spin em no matter what, so i'd guess too little power.
The SE of the 3500 is better suited for a mild cam or just bolton car. 3800 would be wiser for mid-cam/bolton, and those with heads i'd just get a big *** 'verter.
Once the verter locks up at 30-35mph it doesn't matter they are all the same mpg at that point. The biggest penalty is the 0-lockup on mpg. Heavy city driving the stock converter rocked. Freeway, it won't matter if you have a 4400 or 3000, imo, but you must pick the 'verter to meet your power band, shift extension being PRIMO important next to stall.
Yeah i thought 3500 was good, i was wrong, i thought nitto's were cool at the track, i was wrong. Best was 12.1 @ 112.60 on nitto's spinning them. The ET streets are a very wise investment for strip. No point playing throttle games and destroying your necessary street tires at the strip...
thats my opinion.
Also get a deep pan, biggest trans cooler you can fit in there, and a tune. I need a bigger +3qt pan, and perhaps another (or a bigger) trans cooler. Hotlapping on hot days you'll find your drag strip trans fluid temps way too high to be safe without the right setup.
Do it once, nobody wants to do it again. Plan ahead for your future, be it cams/heads/nitrous.
Had i a choice again, i would go 3800 but i'm not swapping to a bigger verter till i blow my trans..