Thinking about going through my 383 and upgrading
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Thinking about going through my 383 and upgrading
I was wonderding who on here does machine work and assembly. I am considering upgrading my valvetrain and turning a couple more rpm as well as having the shortblock gone through and checked over. Please let me know if anybody knows of any good machine shops. Would prefer somewhere in the mid west but would consider any place that does quality work.
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A few years ago when you asked for advice on your build you got tons of it on how to do it properly and, more importantly, ONCE.
What happened? How did the motor perform? What parts did you end up running? Provide some details on the build and we can help you get to where you want to be (again).
What happened? How did the motor perform? What parts did you end up running? Provide some details on the build and we can help you get to where you want to be (again).
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Current setup- forged 383 eagle kit, SRP flat top pistons, LE 234/242 cam, Patriot gold springs and retainers, howards 1.6 nsa rr's, hardened pushrods, stock ported heads(ported by the last machine shop), comp timing chain set
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Unfortunately the machine shop I used I don't believe was the best. The motor runs strong and has pushed the car to 12.7's currently on a street tire, 2.73's, and stock stall. I realize the car has a lot more potential in it. The motor leaks oil out of the front crank seal and rear main seal and I haven't been able to figure out why. I also heard from another customer of the same shop recently having the same problem, and now I have decided enough is enough.
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#11
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2.73s and a stock stall? You're losing at LEAST a full second in the 1/4 from the lack of those two modifications alone. IMO, change the heads to something reputable, fix your leaks, change the gearing to something not shitty, and put a high stall (3600 at least) in it. You don't need a complete rebuild - you just need some understanding.
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My main concern is the motor leaking oil. I have replaced the front seal going on 4 times already and it continues to leak. If the heads get replaced I will probably spend the money on a set of AI TFS heads and the trans is getting rebuilt this spring hopefully. It will be getting a PI 3600 or 4000 and all new clutch packs and hard parts that commonly break(sun shell, etc).
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The 94mph shows you are making some power, but the 8.0 is what I cut in my bolton only M6. You really need to spend the money on better rear gear, and preferably a 12 bolt or S60. I would do 12 bolt because its lighter than the S60 and less loss than a 9". And definately a stall. Those 2 things could get you in the low to mid 11s.
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Seems like you're jumping the gun here. If the front seal is leaking after replacing it 4 times I would suspect the install method needs some revision OR there is damage to the crank hub. If so, you should install a speedy sleeve on the crank hub to tighten up the seal a bit.
I will also assume you have none or next to no suspension work. Get a converter, change the gears - start there before you go into engine panic mode.
I will also assume you have none or next to no suspension work. Get a converter, change the gears - start there before you go into engine panic mode.
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Already did the speedy sleeve to no success, this also doesn't explain why the rear main is leaking either. And you are correct bone stock suspension and the car will get a MWC fab 9 after the trans is done and I can break a 10 bolt. lol