exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

Yes I read the write UPS in the auto trans section. I just have a few questions about it. First do I need to drain all the fluid? Or can I just drop it put in the new converter and put it back in? Second it says after I bolt everything back up it wants me to "see if I can spin the converter" how do I do that with it bolted back up? And also using normal tools and no lift what time line am I looking at

buddhaz06

iTrader: (8)

You don't have to drain fluid but its best to if you want as much good fluid in it as possible. Best time to change fluid/filter if u were gonna. But u just gotta pull the old one out and fill the new stall as much as possible before putting it back in. Bolt it to the engine then try to turn the flexplate or engine over by hand. Or spin the driveshaft. Or both. Make sure nothing is bound up. I'm not sure on time. I'd say a better part of a day depending on ur mechanical experience.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

Ok, well it was just rebuilt about 5k ago so it should still be good. But thanks for the reply and info

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

Read this there is a lot of great info in here. I'm new to the auto world and this was a great thread to read.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html

mrvedit

FTI Converters recently posted a video here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...all-video.html

Notice the important 1.125" distance between the converter pad and edge of the bell housing. (Put a long straight edge over the bell housing to make this measurement.)

Just to be safe, after getting trans aligned on the alignment pins and pushed toward the engine, only hand tighten a few bolts with no tools. Make sure the converter still spins by hand. Then tighten the bolts, making sure the converter always spins easy. Many people don't get the converter in all the way, don't measure the distance to the bell housing, torque the bell housing on and then discover they pinched the converter and ruined the transmissions pump. This cannot happen if you measure and make sure there is always a gap.

Then you need to measure the gap between the converter mounting pad and the flexplate. It should be between 1/16" and 3/16". Any more an you need to install three equal-thickness spacer washers to reduce the gap.

Good luck.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

I already read that... Thats the write up I said I had looked at and why I was asking these questions because it didn't make since.

And ill have to watch that video and thanks for the video and info. There seems to be alot that can go worng

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I suggest you do not begain untill you reread and watch the video untill it does make since, as it is easy to foul up, but not bad once you understand, do noy skip any of the check points

just my .02' Johnny

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

I understand the write up just didn't get how to spin the converter after it was bolted back to the engine. And I was told I didn't have to drain all the fluid then the write up said I did so I was double checking on that. I didn't know there was the video until this morning so ill watch it and that will make more since when I can see it being done. But thanks for the heads up and good looking out. My wife would kill me if I mess it up so ill be taking my time for sure

mrvedit

Before you install the 1st bolt into the converter, the converter will spin easily by hand.
Once you install the 1st bolt into the converter, you need to turn the entire engine from the front crank bolt. Use a 24mm socket, a short extension and a long breaker bar. If it is too hard for you, remove the spark plugs.
Here are two other similar threads:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...lp-please.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ter-bolts.html

Remember the Red Loctite.
PM me if you would like my phone number for help while under the car.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the help guys. It took a little longer then we expected but it took about 6 hrs total and everything is running good now just need a tune. Thanks