BMR drag sway bar
#1
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BMR drag sway bar
I have an 02 ws6 a4 with a yank 3600 stall, 3.73s, full bolt ons, subframe connectors, lca's, lca relocation brackets, panhard bar and nt555r's, I'm planing on doing a tsp 228r cam along with supporting mods but I can't hook to save my own life even with my drag radials at 18psi so I was wondering if a BMR drag sway bar will help at the 1/4 mile track and if so how much? I'm also planning on removing my front sway bar since I don't drive my car too much just mostly race it.....any help is greatly appreciated
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I'm planning on getting some 15" pro stars with some Mickey t's drag radials so hopefully that helps, right now I want to know what a bmr drag sway bar can do for me?
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I have an 02 ws6 a4 with a yank 3600 stall, 3.73s, full bolt ons, subframe connectors, lca's, lca relocation brackets, panhard bar and nt555r's, I'm planing on doing a tsp 228r cam along with supporting mods but I can't hook to save my own life even with my drag radials at 18psi so I was wondering if a BMR drag sway bar will help at the 1/4 mile track and if so how much? I'm also planning on removing my front sway bar since I don't drive my car too much just mostly race it.....any help is greatly appreciated
#7
I have an 02 ws6 a4 with a yank 3600 stall, 3.73s, full bolt ons, subframe connectors, lca's, lca relocation brackets, panhard bar and nt555r's, I'm planing on doing a tsp 228r cam along with supporting mods but I can't hook to save my own life even with my drag radials at 18psi so I was wondering if a BMR drag sway bar will help at the 1/4 mile track and if so how much? I'm also planning on removing my front sway bar since I don't drive my car too much just mostly race it.....any help is greatly appreciated
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=325
You'll love our Made In Philipsburg, PA - USA components, especially the awesome alligator tooth brackets and ultra premium rod ends.
We can support your other traction needs with QA1 shocks up front (and back) as well as our UMI torque arms.
later
ramey
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Alright guys so how much am I looking at spending on some drag suspension parts? All in all I want to be able to plant the power to the graound and be ready so when I get my pro stars with mickeys I can just throw them on and go! What kind of money am I looking at spending and how much (realistically speaking) will it really help me at the strip? I'm not looking for exact Humber just like a realistic guesstimate
#9
Alright guys so how much am I looking at spending on some drag suspension parts? All in all I want to be able to plant the power to the graound and be ready so when I get my pro stars with mickeys I can just throw them on and go! What kind of money am I looking at spending and how much (realistically speaking) will it really help me at the strip? I'm not looking for exact Humber just like a realistic guesstimate
Around $500 for QA1 fronts depending on options.
For the Nitto's, I talked to one of their engineers today as I was curious about the 555r.
They said to break in (although you're past this, it's for the benefit of the audience) gently for 50 miles on the street to improve bead seating and drive off the mold release. The burnout should heat the tire to 160F-200F. Use a pyrometer after the burnout to get a feel for it. Normal starting psi is 20, drop in 1/2 psi increments until traction improves then upon decline move back up. Low acceptable is 15psi unless rim slip happens first. Monitor that with a sharpie or paint mark. Always air up to street psi for the ride home.
later
ramey
#12
Of course it depends how bad the car is twisting on launch and his much you have to drive it. A properly tuned anti roll bar will allow you to launch straight and true with minimal driving.
Basically they help a bad car quite a bit and help you fine tune a good car if necessary.
A number is hard to pin down since there are so many variables.
Thanks
Ramey
#13
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I have an 02 ws6 a4 with a yank 3600 stall, 3.73s, full bolt ons, subframe connectors, lca's, lca relocation brackets, panhard bar and nt555r's, I'm planing on doing a tsp 228r cam along with supporting mods but I can't hook to save my own life even with my drag radials at 18psi so I was wondering if a BMR drag sway bar will help at the 1/4 mile track and if so how much? I'm also planning on removing my front sway bar since I don't drive my car too much just mostly race it.....any help is greatly appreciated
Rather than try to sell you parts, let's work with the parts you have. The NT555R is an excellent drag radial for the street. But, running that tire at the track and leave you with less than desirable results. In other words, it's not the best track tire in the world - especially if it's on a 17-inch wheel.
If you don't mind, please describe your launching style. What are you doing to stall up the converter, what are you doing when the tree hits green (rolling into or mashing the pedal.), where do you have your control arms set, have you tested other tire pressures, are you using a factory torque arm?
Those are all very important questions about the combination you currently have. Those parts should be more than adequate for your current setup because my Trans Am was near identical.
As for the rear anti-roll bar helping your car out, simply put, no. There wouldn't be a noticeable benefit from installing this bar on your car - only a loss in ride quality and comfort. The purpose of the adjustable anti-roll bar is to control body roll in relation to the chassis. If you're not hooking at all, then your car will only marginally improve from a part that provides this benefit. It's certainly a part to keep in mind for the future, but not right now while you're racing on a drag radial such as the NT555R.
I would love for you to give me a call so I can work with you on your current setup and maybe we can get your car moving out the way it should and the way you want.
- Kevin
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Bmr tech 2 here's some more detailed info
I'm launching at 1000 rpm's and I'm smashing on the pedal out of the hole(before my stall I was able to hook this way) and I've also tried rolling into it but it doesn't launch as hard so I don't like it, I'm actually gonna hold off on my plans for my cam and work on my suspension, my control arms are non adjustable and there set at the lowest settin on my lca brackets and I have a stock torque arm(also interested in buying one to help me out) overall I just want to be able to get a good suspension for the 1/4 mile bit I don't want it to feel like complete junk in the street because I do drive this car to work and back(5 miles a day) and go out in it on weekends from time to time, I'm willing to give up some ride quality but not all of it...!
I'm launching at 1000 rpm's and I'm smashing on the pedal out of the hole(before my stall I was able to hook this way) and I've also tried rolling into it but it doesn't launch as hard so I don't like it, I'm actually gonna hold off on my plans for my cam and work on my suspension, my control arms are non adjustable and there set at the lowest settin on my lca brackets and I have a stock torque arm(also interested in buying one to help me out) overall I just want to be able to get a good suspension for the 1/4 mile bit I don't want it to feel like complete junk in the street because I do drive this car to work and back(5 miles a day) and go out in it on weekends from time to time, I'm willing to give up some ride quality but not all of it...!
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Well, while you may not like the way the car hits when you roll into it, I have found that it can sometimes provide a better launch. Have you ever tried launching with various techniques to and then checking your slip to see if there was an improvement? Unfortunately Nittos are easily overpowered, so sometimes just laying into it is the worst option - even if it doesn't feel quicker.
How often do you go to the track? I would like to give you a few ideas to test out. Give me a call here at the shop 813-986-9302 and ask for Kevin.
How often do you go to the track? I would like to give you a few ideas to test out. Give me a call here at the shop 813-986-9302 and ask for Kevin.