bigbomber5

Hello,
Hopefully these are easy problems to solve. I am replacing all of my rotors and pads, but when I moved to the rears I started to run into problems. First off my car is a 2002 TA and I think its safe to say the rotors on the rear are factory. They are rusted pretty badly.
Problem 1 - The two caliper bracket bolts on the rear driver side are seized up. Any remedy to unfreeze them? (don't have a blow torch)
Problem 2 - I removed the rear passenger caliper and bracket, but when I went to pull the rotor off it wouldn't budge. I hammered on the rotor pretty good but that didn't seem to free it up. The hub is rusted pretty good, is this what its probably catching on?
Thanks for your help

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

If your e-brake is on, the rotor won't come off. If your ebrake isn't on, it's either just really rusty, or sometimes the ebrake shoe can get stuck on the inside of the rotor. You just need to hit it with a rubber hammer until it pops off. Use wd40 or PB Blaster to get the bolts loose

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

On top of these good tips, I'd also get some emery cloth and run it around the hub along with spraying it with WD40 or PB Blaster. Also check around each stud. If the ebrake is off and the hub and studs are clean, it shouldn't take much effort to pull off the rotors.

Z28GONZO

my guess e-brake.

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

just keep hammering. it will break loose eventually. If you can't get it well then I guess you could just by a better rear end and solve both problems. haha!!!

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

If a BFH doesn't work, you need an even bigger one.



For those caliper bolts, spray them good with PB blaster and let it soak a while. Spray again, then use a breaker bar to break them free. I had to do that on mine. Often times getting proper leverage is difficult when hunkered under the wheel well so things seem tighter than they really are.

For what it is worth I've never had a broken caliper bracket bolt on any car I've worked on and I've worked on some pretty rusty ones.

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

Beat that mother with a hammer. Then beat it some more.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I just went through this on my front rotors.

First make sure your ebrake isnt engaged. That causes the ebrake shoe to hold the rotor in place.

If the giant mother truckin hammer didn't do jack for you like it didn't do jack for me, then rent the 3 jaw pulling tool from autozone. It's got 3 big hook/claw things on it that grab the outside of the rotor and a point you can put a ratchet on and turn which slowly pushes on the hub right in the center as you turn it. I used this and both rotors broke free for me. If the hammer didn't work for you.. don't keep trying it... just borrow the tool from autozone. It's free with a returnable deposit.

Sending you a PM with a non sponsor link so you get an idea of what it looks like.

fastassls1maro

iTrader: (22)

BFH and smack the rotor inbetween the studs....be careful not to hit the studs. Dont be afraid to hit it hard.....your replacing it anyway. Caliper bracket bolts are really hard to break....you just need a longer ratchet/breaker bar as has been said.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

If his car was like mine, this won't work for him. I whacked the sh*t out of mine with a giant hammer

I also had a spacer, which probably made my job more difficult compared to most.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Make sure the rotor retainer is off. At the factory, a circular clip was placed around one of the studs to keep the rotor on the car as it went down the assembly line before the wheels were attached. If you still have it on, just rip it off with some pliers and throw it away. (No longer needed or useful.)


Try some WD-40 where the stud meets the rotor. Be careful not to get this stuff on the pads or friction surface of the rotor. Oil + Brakes = Bad


Don't use a blow torch. The bolts go in to sleeves, which ride inside the caliper bracket. Those sleeves have two parallel flat surfaces, which will accept a thin wrench. If you get a wrench on the sleeve and a wrench on the bolt, you should be fine.


I'm not a fan of the hammer method. I'd try the WD-40 first and then some light tapping. If that doesn't work, I like to put a 2X4 across the top of the studs and then use two C-Clamps to pull the rotor slowly towards the 2X4. That should pop it off without impacts.

bigbomber5

Thanks for all the tips! Glad to see I'm not the only one who has gone through this lol. I'll give it another go this weekend.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

BTW - Be sure to properly adjust your parking brake for your new rotors. (You can only do this with the rear brakes off.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Just found this old thread. The OP messaged me about a month ago mentioning after getting nowhere with the hammer for an hour, he rented the 3 jaw pulling tool and got the rotor off immediately. Just wanted to mention that

*pat myself on the back*