Lots of Speed 1

iTrader: (1)

Hello Everyone! I need your help to get my '01 Camaro SS running again. I have been having intemittent no start conditions. It has happened three times in the past two months. In the past when it did this it wouldn't start and I would come back a few hours later and it would start. I have read the VATS system on these cars craps out so I bypassed it today.

I have a cheapie Harbour Freight multimeter and I tested the "pellet" on my key and I got readings from 11.45-11.77. I made a bypass by soldering together three resistors. I soldered all resistors together with the gold bands on the left- which I am assuming is the correct way to do this. After soldering together the three resistors I checked my resistance and I got readings from 11.35 to 11.65. I soldered the resistors directly to the the purple/white wire and white/black wires. I tried to start the car and it wouldn't turn over. I do hear a relay or something under the hood make a click sound when I turn the key to the "start" position.

After not starting I connected my ohmeter to the resistors that are soldered to the car's wiring and I would get no reading and if I switched the black and red leads from the ohmeter I would get a negative 9.3 reading. I would get these same reading with both the key in the on position and also in the off position. I'm not sure if these readings sound right or not to any of you or if it may point to another problem.

I would say it's worth mentioning that multiple times daily, but sometimes not at all my radio would turn off and power windows wouldn't work which I know is a Body Control Module problem.

What should I look at next? Does it sound like I did the bypass correctly? I am going to try and borrow my brother's multimeter, which is much better than mine and I will let you know what ohm readings I get on the key and resistors.

Thanks in advance for the help!

xBrandonx

iTrader: (11)

I tried to make a bypass and it didn't work so I bought one off Ebay and it worked. Unfortunately, the guy doesn't sell it anymore.

It looks like this, pure plug and play.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vehicle-Anti...80930368115%26


This is the only bypass kit I can find on Ebay now

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro-Fireb...16c5d4&vxp=mtr


Key Readings

Lots of Speed 1

iTrader: (1)

Xbrandonx, thanks for the reply and link. If at all possible I would like to make my own instead of spending $60 on one from Ebay, but it might come down to that.

I used my brother's ohmmeter and checked both my key and another bypass I made the exact way as the one installed in the vehicle and the key is reading 11.8 and the bypass is reading 11.6 I think I read that the resistors can have a 5% variance and when I added and subtracted 5% from the key reading I get 11.21 to 12.39 so my bypass with a 11.6 bypass should work and it's not.

I forgot to mention in my original post that after the car won't start the "security" lights stays on solid, doesn't blink, for a few minutes and then goes out.

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

should only be one resistor.got mine from radioshack.worked on my blk. one.its the vats security lights stays on solid for a few min.

Lots of Speed 1

iTrader: (1)

I swapped one of the fan relays with the ignition relay and then the starter relay and it didn't start. I unsoldered the resistor bypass and soldered back in the VATS connector and connected it like stock and it started. I thought that was weird so I unsoldered the factory VATS connector and soldered my resistor bypass back in and it started.

With that being said I did my VATS bypass correctly and I am leavng it in because I know the VATS systems are problematic in these cars and I don't want it stranding me in the future.

Since the car started with and without the bypass I'm going to have to assume it's like it has done to me in the past and will run for a few more weeks and do it to me again. I think I am just going to go ahead and replace the BCM since it has done this to me a few times and I don't want it breaking down somewhere and have to pay for a tow.

What do you guys think about just going ahead and replacing the BCM or is there something else I should look at?

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Program the vats off in the computer.

Lots of Speed 1

iTrader: (1)

From what I have read in other posts the VATS can't be fully turned off in the tune. It tells the starter to engage and the fuel pump and you can only tune out the fuel pump signal part of the VATS.

xBrandonx

iTrader: (11)

You can't fully tune it out.....


Also, if you don't fix VATS, it will come back and bite you in the ***... TRUST ME, I KNOW. I can't tell you how many times I got stuck at work trying to get the POS started. One day I said screw and bypassed it, works like a charm ever since.

Lots of Speed 1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah after it started with the VATS bypass I made I told myself that even though that wasn't the problem I'm not hooking the VATS up because I know it will screw me later on down the road.

I think I'm going to try replacing the starter and fuel pump relays next since they are supposedly problematic on these cars, and cheaper than jumping into changing the BCM.

Kiiaottee Morgan

u did the bypass wrong there are 15 diff resistance values. Some of them allow a little leeway othere make u goto the precise ohm read it at 20 k and dont touch both leads with your fingers you should get a solid reading or can try it 15 times