going to 4.10 gears... just a question.
#1
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going to 4.10 gears... just a question.
Ok, I have been browsing, and found so much information and right now my brain cannot process it all, lol...
I have a 2000 camaro SS m6. I believe it has 3.42's from the factory. I am shopping for 4.10 gears and see many options, which ones do I need? My rear is all stock... can't afford a nice new rear so this'll do until it breaks.
I am in Afghanistan, so I can take my time on this, just need a little assistance so I don't make a 300 dollar mistake. Thanks in advance!
I have a 2000 camaro SS m6. I believe it has 3.42's from the factory. I am shopping for 4.10 gears and see many options, which ones do I need? My rear is all stock... can't afford a nice new rear so this'll do until it breaks.
I am in Afghanistan, so I can take my time on this, just need a little assistance so I don't make a 300 dollar mistake. Thanks in advance!
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A 2000 Camaro Z28 M6 would have come off the factory line with 3.42s'. Being that it's an SS and went to SLP after leaving the factory to make an SS out of it,it could have been optioned at SLP with a different rear ratio gearset,but you seem to believe it still has the 3.42s' in it and it wasn't changed at SLP.
You would need a 4.10 7.5" 3 series gearset.
7.5 is the same as 7.625.
a 7.625 rearend has a 7.625 OD ring gear mounted on a 7.5 carrier.
a 7.5 rearend has a 7.5 OD ring gear mounted on a 7.5 carrier.
rearend parts are the same: bearings,seals,shims,etc.
If you're planning on rebuilding the rear while it's apart,you'd also need a master rebuild kit for bearings,shims,seals,crush sleeve,pinion nut.
You would need a 4.10 7.5" 3 series gearset.
7.5 is the same as 7.625.
a 7.625 rearend has a 7.625 OD ring gear mounted on a 7.5 carrier.
a 7.5 rearend has a 7.5 OD ring gear mounted on a 7.5 carrier.
rearend parts are the same: bearings,seals,shims,etc.
If you're planning on rebuilding the rear while it's apart,you'd also need a master rebuild kit for bearings,shims,seals,crush sleeve,pinion nut.
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How many miles on the car?
Master Bearing Kit (Not Necessary if the bearings are in good shape)
Solid Crush Sleeve (Optional But I would highly recommend)
4.10 ring and pinion
80w90 gear lube for break in.
Then 75w90 or 75w140
80w90 did not hold up in my experience wore the hard facing off on the gear. I believe this to be because the 4.10 has a much higher pressure contact point
and When the rear end got hot it had more gear noise.
I noticed on the second time around with the Amsoil 75w140 that the gear noise seemed to stay the same level from cold to hot.
6k miles and still in once piece :knock on wood:
Master Bearing Kit (Not Necessary if the bearings are in good shape)
Solid Crush Sleeve (Optional But I would highly recommend)
4.10 ring and pinion
80w90 gear lube for break in.
Then 75w90 or 75w140
80w90 did not hold up in my experience wore the hard facing off on the gear. I believe this to be because the 4.10 has a much higher pressure contact point
and When the rear end got hot it had more gear noise.
I noticed on the second time around with the Amsoil 75w140 that the gear noise seemed to stay the same level from cold to hot.
6k miles and still in once piece :knock on wood:
#6
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How many miles on the car?
Master Bearing Kit (Not Necessary if the bearings are in good shape)
Solid Crush Sleeve (Optional But I would highly recommend)
4.10 ring and pinion
80w90 gear lube for break in.
Then 75w90 or 75w140
80w90 did not hold up in my experience wore the hard facing off on the gear. I believe this to be because the 4.10 has a much higher pressure contact point
and When the rear end got hot it had more gear noise.
I noticed on the second time around with the Amsoil 75w140 that the gear noise seemed to stay the same level from cold to hot.
6k miles and still in once piece :knock on wood:
Master Bearing Kit (Not Necessary if the bearings are in good shape)
Solid Crush Sleeve (Optional But I would highly recommend)
4.10 ring and pinion
80w90 gear lube for break in.
Then 75w90 or 75w140
80w90 did not hold up in my experience wore the hard facing off on the gear. I believe this to be because the 4.10 has a much higher pressure contact point
and When the rear end got hot it had more gear noise.
I noticed on the second time around with the Amsoil 75w140 that the gear noise seemed to stay the same level from cold to hot.
6k miles and still in once piece :knock on wood:
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#10
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P.S. I am a gear design engineer...I know what I am talking about.
All of that aside, I run Richmond 4.10s in my car. They seem to be pretty strong - they were installed by a reputable local company (done by the previous owner of this rear - I just bought it axle to axle and installed it). If I were to buy gears I would have went with the Motive gears because they are known to be quieter, but almost 100% of the time it comes down to how well they were installed.
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Another vote for the 4.10's here! Hell I run a HCI setup with a manual, and IMO the 4.10 is perfect! So on a bolt on only car I can't see how it would be overkill at all.
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Don't forget the rear support cover either!! My 10 bolt went over 200 runs with 1 rebuild (not failure, but rebuild). It had Motive 4.10s when I bought it and was rebuilt with Yukon 4.10s. Yukons were noisier than Motives, but yuks had a solid pinion spacer. Anyway, the yukon posi gave up and took out the r&p with it so I bought a used 12 bolt w/3.73s. It slowed the et so I'll be changing back to 4.10s, possibly 4.30s as I just bought a set of 27.75 tires.
#15
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It's not about you. It's about op. For him looking at being bolt-ons 4.10 is to much gear.
You did'nt pick up 8mph in the 1/8 just by changing gear. There are other factors in that 8mph gain. I bet there was a tire/traction change there to. I've made the the change before. Goin from 3.42 to 4.10 I only picked up 1-1.5 mph in the entire 1/4 Going by your theory I shoulda picked up 10mph. I have picked up mph by goin to 3.90 over the 4.10.
You did'nt pick up 8mph in the 1/8 just by changing gear. There are other factors in that 8mph gain. I bet there was a tire/traction change there to. I've made the the change before. Goin from 3.42 to 4.10 I only picked up 1-1.5 mph in the entire 1/4 Going by your theory I shoulda picked up 10mph. I have picked up mph by goin to 3.90 over the 4.10.
#16
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It's not about you. It's about op. For him looking at being bolt-ons 4.10 is to much gear.
You did'nt pick up 8mph in the 1/8 just by changing gear. There are other factors in that 8mph gain. I bet there was a tire/traction change there to. I've made the the change before. Goin from 3.42 to 4.10 I only picked up 1-1.5 mph in the entire 1/4 Going by your theory I shoulda picked up 10mph. I have picked up mph by goin to 3.90 over the 4.10.
You did'nt pick up 8mph in the 1/8 just by changing gear. There are other factors in that 8mph gain. I bet there was a tire/traction change there to. I've made the the change before. Goin from 3.42 to 4.10 I only picked up 1-1.5 mph in the entire 1/4 Going by your theory I shoulda picked up 10mph. I have picked up mph by goin to 3.90 over the 4.10.
Anyway, yeah I did pick up 8mph by changing the gear, and that was it. Both times were done on the exact same set of Mickey Thompson ET streets so traction/tires were not changed. Literally just swapped rear ends and went to the track and those were my gains.
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I had 4.10's but broke ring gear teeth. Shifting into 5th at 120ish mph was blah... when I went to a 9" I chose 3.75's because I also had 3.73's and loved the gearing. Also had 3.42's which felt slow.