Builtz71

iTrader: (4)

Don't have any place on my radiator to hook my vent tube..what are my other options?

65panel5.3

I drilled and tapped a fitting into the flot spot on the water pump right on top of the pump just above where the rad hose outlet is, is working good for me so far..

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much anywhere in the cooling system. the two most common seem to be drilling and tapping the water pump or buying a T fitting and hooking it into the upper radiator hose or heater hose. Jags that run sells a nice unit with a vent and a clear window so you can see if there is any air in the line.

A third option is just capping them off altogether. Commonly done, you just need to make sure you vent all the air every time you fill the system. There are a number of people who think that since they are called steam vents that there must be steam in their heads. They get all PMSd about it. If that is something you are worried about, then read through some of the dialog and make a decision for yourself.

74modified

Here is a link to several different ways to hook up LS cooling systems, from someone who knows way more about cooling engineering than most who post here. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...CoolingSystems It is a long post, but has 3 or 4 diagrams and you could set up a proven bullet-proof system. I use a Mercedes surge tank off of the heater return line that has a steam line connector. The factory even ran the vent to the heater return line on some cars (Trailblazer SS). IMO, tapping the pump works, but would be a pain if the pump went out while out of town. Simplest is an adapter to tap a hose on the low pressure side.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I second the link, it has excellent information.

I agree with 74modified on tapping the water pump. There are a lot of people who like this idea, but I drive much too far for that. I just had a water pump go out on my conversion and it was nice to be able to simply buy one from any parts store and slam it on without special tools or drama.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

That link does have a lot of valuable information. Lots of good color pictures and links. I like how he addresses the myth about water flowing to fast to transfer heat. But unfortunately the guy thinks there is steam trapped in the head. Just doesn't work that way guys. If you think you have trouble with steam pockets than your cooling system has a serious problem that a coolant path half the size of a soda straw simply isn't going to fix.

Read back through everything he said and simply question his assumption that there is a steam pocket trapped in the heads. Take that assumption away, and keep in mind he provides absolutely nothing to back that up, then all of his conclusions about the need to vent are meaningless.

Think a little guys. Just because someone called them steam vents doesn't make them one. And just because they are on all four corners of the engine doesn't mean the corner cylinders somehow have an issue the center ones don't.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Do you have this on a keyboard shortcut?

74modified

You can take some anonymous person's ASSUMPTION on the internet, or you can "Think a little guys". Why did Chevrolet install the vents and spend the money to hook them up?
Here is a quote from Super Chevy Magizine
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...p/viewall.html
"Cooling Systems
All LS based engines have a small hose connected to the front of the cylinder heads. In some applications, it is hooked to the lower left side of the throttle body, then to the radiator. Either way, this tube must be hooked to the radiator in the area of the upper radiator hose. It vents air from the top of the cylinder heads, and not hooking it up can cause engine damage.

Closed cooling systems, with a pressurized overflow bottle, cool better than a standard system with an open overflow bottle. The additional coolant in the bottle, plus the higher pressure, allows the system to cool more efficiently. This type of system is used in the Cadillac CTS-V, Pontiac Solstice, as well as other GM vehicles. They make good candidates to salvage used parts from. If you choose to install one of these systems, the lower line from the bottle should be tied into the return heater hose (the most forward 3/4-inch nipple on the water pump housing) on a LS engine. The vent hose from the cylinder head should be hooked to the small upper nipple on the bottle.

All production LS engines are built with a 195-degree thermostat. Never remove the thermostat from an LS based engine since it's designed to direct flow through the engine, and removing it can cause engine damage. You can run a lower temp thermostat, but remember the engine controller uses engine temperature to determine fuel and timing curves."

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Don't take any of this personal. Super Chevy has their opinions and I have mine.

I actually agree that the safer course of action is to hook in a vent. Air trapped in the high point of the motor is probably pretty tough for the water pump to push out, and air simply doesn't cool as well as water.

But as a motor head who will go through the effort to pop one of those vents every time I fill the system the risk of an air bubble just isn't a big issue.

But air bubbles isn't your argument. This whole steam vent stuff is just pure made up nonsense. Give the guy factual information, separate it from what you are speculating about and let him make his own decision.

Builtz71

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the advice guys!..i think im gonna tap into one of the heater hoses..i've already tapped the top of the pump for my electric fans temp switch..

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Tap into the larger of the two when you do it. You want it on the low pressure side.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I used the upper radiator hose with a home made adapter which mates to my factory radiator. The heater hose may work for you, but in most swaps your heater hoses are a long way off the path and the upper radiator hose is closer. Jags that Run and several others sell upper hose adapters just for what you are doing.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

From what I’ve read (and I could be wrong!) the water pump outlet is not the ideal place. The factory plumbs it back into the highest point in the system (top of the radiator) where there are air pockets. Plumbing it into the high side of the system (waterpump outlet) would put pressurized water back into the steam ports, not allowing air/steam to escape as well. (not that many don't do it this way) Ideally you’d want it in the OEM location. If this isn’t an option plumb it somewhere on the low side of the system. I went behind the thermo housing. Made sense to me anyway. I mean how we we really know if its functioning properly anyway?

mooseknuckles

heres what I did.......

Builtz71

iTrader: (4)

I'm looking for a 3/4x1/4x3/4 brass t fitting to tap into the heater return hose..

74modified

You could build it out of it out of individual fittings or use an adapter like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2281/overview/

Builtz71

iTrader: (4)

I seen that on summit..just don't want to spend that much on it..I'm gonna look local,that may be my last resort