Stroker crank bottom out on conversion oil pan?
#1
Stroker crank bottom out on conversion oil pan?
I was looking at running a 4.0 or a 4.1 stroker crank in a ls1 but was wondering if those cranks have issues with the rod bolts hitting the bottom of the oil pan. The conversion oil pans are notched down on the sides. I'll include the link to a photo below.
http://www.texasperformanceconcepts.com/Oct_19_001.jpg
http://www.texasperformanceconcepts.com/Oct_19_001.jpg
#2
"Most" of the time you just have to shim your windage tray a hair to get a 4" crank to clear everything....if your concerned about it hitting the pan, put some thick global of grease (I like to use wheelbearing grease) on the bottom of the rod ends and rod bolts, bolt the pan on without the gasket and spin the motor over by hand....pull the pan and see if any of the grease rubbed off the rods/bolts onto the pan and do a little grinding in the spots it touched.
Once you add the pan gasket you will have plenty of clearance.
Once you add the pan gasket you will have plenty of clearance.
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
"Most" of the time you just have to shim your windage tray a hair to get a 4" crank to clear everything....if your concerned about it hitting the pan, put some thick global of grease (I like to use wheelbearing grease) on the bottom of the rod ends and rod bolts, bolt the pan on without the gasket and spin the motor over by hand....pull the pan and see if any of the grease rubbed off the rods/bolts onto the pan and do a little grinding in the spots it touched.
Once you add the pan gasket you will have plenty of clearance.
Once you add the pan gasket you will have plenty of clearance.
the windage tray, shimmed it away slightly with some thin 8mm washers and the rotating assy. has enough clearance. No block/cylinder bottom grinding required.
#5
TECH Fanatic
with a 4.1 crank in a stock block you will likely have to notch the oil pan as well as the bottom edge of the cylinders to clear the rod bolts. Should not be any significant amount of material removal, but several areas will require attention.
#7
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
The idea with a stroker combination is the added torque and low speed driv-
ability with a large cam to make a broad powerband. A stroker crank also
elevates the piston speed (feet per second) ALOT as the additional distance
it travels up and down the bore....this increases rod angularity and the piston
becomes very short (in height...pin to top) that it will rock in the bore at the
sustained rpms you intend to use this.
If I were in your shoes and money was no issue I'd use the LS7 4.125" bore
block and put a 4.8 (3.27") stroke which would make 349.6 cubic inches.
Unless you are hung up on more cubes in which case the 6.2 (376") is a hard
combo to beat @ 4.065" bore (can be taken to .070 or .080) X 3.62" stroke
And absolutely you will want a dry sump oiling system or those 1/2 hour track
sessions will elevate the oil temps BIG time and start to kill expensive parts.
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#8
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
With the longer strokes (4.10, 4.125", etc) it is very common to have to clearance the pan! I would tend to agree with ^^ in the shorter stroke being more desirable in a road race application though!
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Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!