bcbosley

iTrader: (2)

Can someone that has used a GM boost solenoid help me? My plan is to run off my wastegate for low boost 6 psi, then flip a switch to turn on my methanol and the solenoid to run off of a Hallman MBC for higher boost. Can it really be that simple or am I missing something?
I was thinking of buying an AME tru boost but I really don't think I need anything fancy with the kind of boost I'm running. Simple just seems better.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

a solenoid needs to be pulsed, it uses pulse width to create a restriction, you are thinking of a manual boost controller with the bypass on it.

a two stage manual.

if you power a gm boost solenoid it will completely open or close

denmah

iTrader: (2)

http://tunerfixx.com/store/index.php...products_id=39

you're thinking of this stuff

bcbosley

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking since the GM solenoid has 3 ports with the solenoid closed, 0% duty cycle, the solenoid wouldlet air pass through ports 2 and 1 so it would just run off wastegate, then when solenoid is energized, 100% duty, air would now pass through ports 2 and 3 with a MBC on the port 3 side. So now it will run through the boost controller thus the higher boost. Correct? or am I all confused?

denmah

iTrader: (2)

yeah that might work out, give it a whirl.

stevieturbo

In an un-energised state, boost pressure must have an unrestricted passage to/from the wastegate.

Due to the 3 port nature, your best bet would be to tee the solenoid off the signal line, rather than try to blow through the solenoid.

So that when energised, boost is leaked out via the solenoid and into your adjustable leak. whether that's an MBC, a calibrated hole, or a cheap *** fish tank bleed valve really doesnt matter.
When de-energised, the solenoid remains closed and boost is wastegate only.


Although companies like Turbosmart make cheapish controllers that carry out this function anyway.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbosmart-D...1d0d3c&vxp=mtr

stevieturbo

The best thing that electronic controllers offer you...is easy adjustability from the cockpit.

Even a cheap one can be worth it for that alone. Something like this is about as cheap as you will get.

And it's just as simple as turning the **** for more boost. If you want a hi and low. Just turn the unit off for w/g pressure, and turn it on for the higher setting.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDi-electron...6435d4&vxp=mtr

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Im using an Ingersoll Rand 6JJ52 solenoid with a manual controller. Id have to look up how I wired it but when I hit a toggle it goes from wg spring pressure to whatever I have set on the manual controller. I was running 17psi and then flipping a switch mid track when I had solid traction diverting it to 23lbs.

$60 total spent.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

GM noid works fine, done it LOTS of times.

MillsMotorvation

Good info here, always looking to find a way to beat out over priced parts, and build it my self. Good luck!

turbo_bu

Happen to have a part # for the GM boost valve?

Benwb

iTrader: (1)

have a diagram how to hook it up?

bcbosley

iTrader: (2)

I was just thinking something like this. Seems pretty simple.

stevieturbo

That would work.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

I did something like this on a subaru that worked pretty well.

MrPotatoeHead

iTrader: (1)

Yeah X2

MaxxMitchell

iTrader: (15)

You can also use the cheap aem style replacement noids on ebay with 1/8 NPT ports if you do not have a GM version already.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

I have a GM noid and turbo xs boost controller laying around if someone wants to buy it. It is what I used on my LTD before I switched to the $$$ electronic controller.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

seems you could tie this in to a switch and have one level (wastegate) at launch and another once you are out of the hole.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

Exactly how I did it, I had mine on a button(like a nitrous button). You can actually use 2 of these and 2 mbc's and have 3 stages for cheap. I've done it before this way a few times.