kpadlina

tore my t56 apart last night and the only thing I found wrong was the keys on the 2nd gear I believe were sheared. seems like I also have 2 aluminum shift forks.... I didnt notice any chipping or wear on any of the gears or counter gears at all. shift forks seem to be straight as well as the shift rails. could the broken keys be the only reason that 2nd gear would pop out as soon as I barley started to let out the clutch?

Also, when rebuilding this trans do I need the shim kit if all of the gears stay the same? any input is greatly appreciated!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps6cf4b415.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psb4324b01.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psb7f31048.jpg

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Your fork pads are shot too. Hard to say by looking at general pics if anything else is wrong. Most shimming is done wrong anyway, so it's always best to redo the shimming.

kpadlina

Isn't it weird to have 2 aluminum shift forks? Shouldn't they all be changed to steel? All bronze fork pads are ordered along with billet keys and syncro assemblies.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

having all aluminum forks is completely normal only the 3-4 fork usually gets replaced with a steel one. with that said your list looks good buts its hard to tell what shape the gears in but if all the trans was doing was popping out then it sounds like the keys are the culprits. dont forget synchro rings if you havent ordered those

your list looks good, where are you getting all the parts from? the gear box has a kit that includes all of the for a pretty solid price iirc

kpadlina

Gear box is exactly where I'm getting my stuff as well as mgw shifter for it. Anything else I should consider? Any tips or little tricks on re assembly?

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

your 1/2 syncro assy. looks rounded. Also, I would look at the splines on the mainshaft where the 5/6 cluster rides. Looks like the splines are starting to wear.

kpadlina

Ya I noticed the main shaft... Seems weird to me for that to happen. Only 70k miles on the car and you wouldn't think 5th would get a whole lot of abuse...

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

actually t56's have a common problem with the 5/6 part on the mainshaft. it was machined a little on the small side from the factory and can wear out causing a loose fitting gear and vibration. if the 5/6 gear fits tightly on the shaft then your ok if its just kinda slides on loosely then you have an issue. if this is the case tdp can repair your mainshaft for 100 bucks.

Sunsetmaro

iTrader: (6)

Get the bronze pads 1-4, 3-4 steel shift fork and billet keys 1-4 and you'll be good. Clean all the parts, magnets everything and trans grease all the gears and bearings. I just finished my rebuild. Ive never rebuilt one before and learned a lot by doing it. Just take your time and read up on the gm publications and write-ups online! You can get someone to do it, but I feel thats a waste of money and you don't learn anything. OH hardest part was lining up the shift forks... there are write-ups on line. GL!

kpadlina

Well... I didn't need a puller roger the gear off but it wasn't really that loose... Is this something that will just get worse or break orrrr

TDP

iTrader: (23)

Check the mainshaft journals where the 5/6 gear was, and there is usually a lip where the 5/6 gear wears into the mainshaft. If it gets bad enough, the splines will start getting eaten away.
And, yes we can get the mainshaft re-sized to 1.500in, and this will create an interference fit as the gear is usually around 1.497in. 0.003" doesn't sound like much, but it make a world of difference. Price is $100 exchange for this service. Sure beats spending $450 on a new 5/6 gear and new mainshaft

We sell a rebuild kit which includes all the bearings, syncro rings, seals, fork pads, and the upgraded chromoly billet 1/2 & 3/4 keys, as well as the billet fork pads for 1/2 & 3/4, & the bronze shifter cup. Plus the steel 3/4 shift fork. All for $600+shipping. Call to order

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

^ Definitely check the 5/6 driven gear spines. Anything more than 20% wear and I'd probably get the shaft replaced.

The issue with the 5/6 driven is that the main shaft was .001-.003" too thin from the factory. I had a trans with only 40k on it and the splines only had 50% left. TDP hooked me up with the +.003" main shaft.